Audiobank 3300BD Amplifier...

[Goldust]

:(

I'm currently using an Audiobank monoblock amplifier to power two Pioneer DVC's(400w rms)...the load is 1Ohm...once I start cranking it up past the halfway point of my volume it goes into protection...my question is how do I aid my amp in handling a 1Ohm load...on the spec's it's supposed to...please help....

[Juggy]

I assume this is car audio?

Can you not add an extra speaker on each channel to halve the impedance?

Set 2 speakers per channel to halve the impedance obviously relying on the fact that both sets are 10 ohm. If I remember correctly you also then double your PMPO.

Another thing, are you sure the Amp is cutting out because of protection and not because the battery can't deliver enough power when the bass needs it? This is the exact reason .5 and 1 Farad caps are used.

[Goldust]

Yep...it's car audio...I haven't thought of the capacitor route yet...it's running at maximum load so the impedance portion of things is covered...I've tested to see if there is any fault on the wiring but everything points to the load...with one sub connected...it does not switch off...but with both on it cuts...I am using a bigger battery already...the trouble is I have seen systems play without a cap leading to me being puzzled as to why mine cuts early...?

[Goldust]

Thanks for the advice Juggy...I'm out...:)

[Juggy]

Yep...it's car audio...I haven't thought of the capacitor route yet...it's running at maximum load so the impedance portion of things is covered...I've tested to see if there is any fault on the wiring but everything points to the load...with one sub connected...it does not switch off...but with both on it cuts...I am using a bigger battery already...the trouble is I have seen systems play without a cap leading to me being puzzled as to why mine cuts early...?

Thos e systems could be using better batteries or the engine could be running with the alternator charging it.

Which battery are you using? a 639?

[Gaz{M}]

What are the specs of your subs? Are the subs both dual 4 ohm? And what are the specs of the amp (I can't find the model with google) particularily its power rating at 4 2 and 1 ohm. A 1 ohm load is a very very tough load for any amplifier, especially cheaper brands like audiobank, as it is near a dead short if you think about it. If your subs are dual 4 ohm, you can wire them in such a way that you either present a 1 ohm load or a 4 ohm load to the amplifier. Try connect both subs to the amp, but run them in series rather than in parallel to get a 4 ohm load in total. Yes, you'll be getting less power into each sub, but you might find that with both subs playing, you get plenty of bass and the amp isn't under any strain at all.

[Bizza_B]

Hey guys. . .i g0t a audio.b 5500w m0n0bl0ck. . .im running 1 audio.b 12" sub 1200rms with a 2-ohm rating. .i g0t da same pr0b wher da amp goes in2 pr0tect

[Bizza_B]

I g0ta 657 battry. . .i had a cap in at 1st bt it did da same thng. . .da sub was bridged als0 running da amp at 1ohm. . .i t0ok da cap owt n changd my c0nnecti0n. .amp iz at 2ohm n0w. .da s0und iz much beta bt itz stl cutting owt

[Bizza_B]

I hav a 4ch 3000w xtc amp running 6x9z n tweeterz. . .b4 i installd dis amp da m0n0bl0ck neva cut. .u thnk itz p0wer supply datz da pr0b?

[GhostSixFour]

Type like a normal person and you might get better results.

[Ancalagon]

My eyes are bleeding!

[Thugscub]

Bejasus Bizza what planet are you from?

[superdiy]

Bejasus Bizza what planet are you from?I wanted to ask the same thing!

[gregmcc]

Good God man....what's wrong with you!

[superdiy]

It's not only about a bigger battery. It's about a lot of things. The idea is to have the least amount of losses (resistance) in the wiring as well. It won't help you having 15 batteries under the bonnet and running 0.5mm flex as the power cable to the amp. The bigger the amp and the lower the impedance of the load, the more power the amp would need to effectively drive the load. The purpose of the capacitor (as close as possible to the amp) is to supply the amp with more power when it suddenly needs it, instead of drawing the power across the power cables all the way from the battery. After the surge the cap is "charged" via the power cable from the battery, but still, if your power cable is too thin (and /or has too much resistance) the cap will not be charged soon enough for the next surge.

Put your battery as close as possible to the amp (power cables as short as possible and as thick as you can afford) and if you have the money, add a cap or 2 to help with the power surges.

Remember to use proper cable from the neutral/ground/negative terminal of the amp to the body of the car as well and ensure that the cable is properly connected/grounded to the body. The neutral/ground is just as important as the live.