duderoo
17-07-2007, 04:52 PM
I have a normal open flame fireplace which I wanna get rid of, you know the black steel one with the shield you can put in front, for a antracite closed controlled burn.
Any recommendations?
Any recommendations?
View Full Version : Anthracite fireplaces.
bwana
17-07-2007, 04:56 PM
Good idea. My dad has a wood burning one and it pretty much heats the entire house in the winter (winter means around -10c where he lives).
I'd get a wood-burning stove as well because around me it's cheaper than coal.
I'd get a wood-burning stove as well because around me it's cheaper than coal.
Datura
17-07-2007, 05:01 PM
I'd get wood as well
:rolleyes:
I hope this thread doesn't branch off like that other one did.
:rolleyes:
I hope this thread doesn't branch off like that other one did.
bwana
17-07-2007, 05:02 PM
:rolleyes:
I hope this thread doesn't branch off like that other one did.You win.
I'm stumped. :D
I hope this thread doesn't branch off like that other one did.You win.
I'm stumped. :D
Datura
17-07-2007, 05:06 PM
Oh no, knot again. Let's just leaf this oak's thread alone.
bwana
17-07-2007, 05:13 PM
Ok - yew win.
duderoo
18-07-2007, 08:15 AM
Ok so any recommendations of make of fireplaces?
Goobie
18-07-2007, 08:36 AM
Anthracite heaters are the bomb diggity!
A couple of things you need to know...if you don't already. I have one of those older Rayburn models circa 1960 which is rated to heat a room of 120sqm. It is a big and extremely heavy, red brown colour, very retro. I assume technology have caught up so they are probably more efficient nowadays. So my experience of anthracite heaters relate to that, if it will be of any help.
1. They are dirty to clean and refill
2. Anthracite is kinda expensive, here in Bfn I pay R57 for a 40 kg bag which last me about 5 nights. They are supposed to be lit at the beginning of the winter and kept on all winter long, BUT that gets to be expensive, so I use mine as a normal fireplace which get lit after work each night and then burn without intervention for about 4 glorious hours.
3. The amount of heat they produce is enormous so make sure the unit is not too big for the room or you WILL be sweating.
4. Depending on how you start the fire they take much longer than an open fireplace to produce heat. Mine take at least an hour before I feel anything, but then I start mine with normal firelighters and charcoal. I guess if you were to use a gas flame you will be up and running much faster.
Whatever model you pick, make sure you have it professionally installed so that your chimney extends at least 1m above the highest point of your roof.
A couple of things you need to know...if you don't already. I have one of those older Rayburn models circa 1960 which is rated to heat a room of 120sqm. It is a big and extremely heavy, red brown colour, very retro. I assume technology have caught up so they are probably more efficient nowadays. So my experience of anthracite heaters relate to that, if it will be of any help.
1. They are dirty to clean and refill
2. Anthracite is kinda expensive, here in Bfn I pay R57 for a 40 kg bag which last me about 5 nights. They are supposed to be lit at the beginning of the winter and kept on all winter long, BUT that gets to be expensive, so I use mine as a normal fireplace which get lit after work each night and then burn without intervention for about 4 glorious hours.
3. The amount of heat they produce is enormous so make sure the unit is not too big for the room or you WILL be sweating.
4. Depending on how you start the fire they take much longer than an open fireplace to produce heat. Mine take at least an hour before I feel anything, but then I start mine with normal firelighters and charcoal. I guess if you were to use a gas flame you will be up and running much faster.
Whatever model you pick, make sure you have it professionally installed so that your chimney extends at least 1m above the highest point of your roof.
duderoo
18-07-2007, 09:47 AM
Goobie thanks for the info.
Goobie
18-07-2007, 09:53 AM
OH one more thing. If you'll be replacing your regular fireplace then it won't be an issue, but it is very important that you have as large a section of the chimney run INSIDE the house. In other words, if you're planning on letting the chimney/stovepipe run through the wall to the outside directly after the oven you should rethink that. I would say that about 60% of the heat from the oven comes from the metal chimney, so run as long a section as possibe inside the house.
Nanfeishen
18-07-2007, 11:40 AM
Another product to maybe consider, is a ceramic fireplace, i dont know if they do conversions from standard fireplace though, but they are efficient, and heat nicely, wood burner (better than Anthracite and less messy)
http://www.earthfire.co.za/
Some nice other choices:
http://www.fireplacestudio.co.za/
http://www.inferno.co.za/
http://www.homefires.co.za/
http://www.earthfire.co.za/
Some nice other choices:
http://www.fireplacestudio.co.za/
http://www.inferno.co.za/
http://www.homefires.co.za/
Goobie
18-07-2007, 12:08 PM
Damn those ceramic fireplaces are hot...as in sexy.
Something else I just remembered; anthracite burners requires much less seasonal maintenance, as there is little to no creosote build-up in the chimney compared to wood burners.
Something else I just remembered; anthracite burners requires much less seasonal maintenance, as there is little to no creosote build-up in the chimney compared to wood burners.
duderoo
18-07-2007, 12:42 PM
I do not have a fireplace at all and so it will be a standalone.
duderoo
18-07-2007, 03:07 PM
What are the price of those ceramic fireplaces?
badgersa
09-06-2008, 03:29 PM
Hi to all, hope you can help... my husband and I recentley moved into a house with an anthracite fireplace, which we thought to be a good thing at first but after going to the expence of buying all the goodies needed we can't get the thing to burn... might sound a bit strange to some, but yeh to us amaturs it is a strugle. Please assist???
Goobie
09-06-2008, 03:46 PM
Here is what you do. This works for me, I have an old Rayburn (circa 1960) heater (red rusty colour with glass door):
1. Buy firelighter eg Blitz
2. Buy a bag of charcoal brikettes (sp?)
3. Depending on the model of your oven, put a placeholder (an empty peanut butter bottle works great) on the grid inside the empty oven. Open the ash trap door at the bottom for good ventilation.
4. Pour in a bunch of anthracite down onto grid and bottle to almost cover the peanutbutter bottle.
5. Scrape the coal away from the bottle and gently lift the bottle out leaving a nice open pocket inside the surrounding coal.
6. Put two pieces (about 6cm long) of blitz inside the pocket, light them.
7. Quickly put about 5-6 pieces of charcoal brikettes on top of the burning firelighters.
8. Now rake a bunch of coal from the surrounding area onto the brikettes. Close the glass door. Go scrub your hands.
9. The idea is to light the brikettes that in turn will light the coal. It is a long process, mine takes about 2 hours before proper heat is released, thats why an anthracite heater is left running 24/7, but that can be expensive.
Things to remember:
1. You need a good draft up the chimney.
2. If you have stovepipe that run up through your ceiling inside the house you will have much better heat in the home compared to when the heater is build into the wall.
3. Don't expect huge flames, you are ONLY suppose to see red coals with small flames on top, it is not a logfire, so don't expect that.
4. You will have much better heat than with a log fire, burning for MUUUCH longer without needing to add more coals.
5. A little bit of smoke coming from the heater initially until the chimney heats up which helps in the draft is normal, that should go away after a short while.
let me know how it went, lighting an oven is an art
1. Buy firelighter eg Blitz
2. Buy a bag of charcoal brikettes (sp?)
3. Depending on the model of your oven, put a placeholder (an empty peanut butter bottle works great) on the grid inside the empty oven. Open the ash trap door at the bottom for good ventilation.
4. Pour in a bunch of anthracite down onto grid and bottle to almost cover the peanutbutter bottle.
5. Scrape the coal away from the bottle and gently lift the bottle out leaving a nice open pocket inside the surrounding coal.
6. Put two pieces (about 6cm long) of blitz inside the pocket, light them.
7. Quickly put about 5-6 pieces of charcoal brikettes on top of the burning firelighters.
8. Now rake a bunch of coal from the surrounding area onto the brikettes. Close the glass door. Go scrub your hands.
9. The idea is to light the brikettes that in turn will light the coal. It is a long process, mine takes about 2 hours before proper heat is released, thats why an anthracite heater is left running 24/7, but that can be expensive.
Things to remember:
1. You need a good draft up the chimney.
2. If you have stovepipe that run up through your ceiling inside the house you will have much better heat in the home compared to when the heater is build into the wall.
3. Don't expect huge flames, you are ONLY suppose to see red coals with small flames on top, it is not a logfire, so don't expect that.
4. You will have much better heat than with a log fire, burning for MUUUCH longer without needing to add more coals.
5. A little bit of smoke coming from the heater initially until the chimney heats up which helps in the draft is normal, that should go away after a short while.
let me know how it went, lighting an oven is an art
The Axe Dude
09-06-2008, 04:09 PM
Also, remember to pull the the little...."stick" that pokes out at the side. If it is closed, then air cannot flow, and the fire will suffocate
BigBear
10-06-2008, 11:10 AM
I am thinking of making a type of gas burner/lighter that you could just put under the Coal in the Ash Trap.
Goobie
11-06-2008, 09:39 AM
I am thinking of making a type of gas burner/lighter that you could just put under the Coal in the Ash Trap.
I thought of that same idea until my brother tried to light a coal fire with gas, after an hour of nothing happening he called me up and asked what's up with that! I think you need a much more concentrated form of heat (ie the charcoal brikkettes) than an open flame. Perhaps a blowtorch will work better.
I thought of that same idea until my brother tried to light a coal fire with gas, after an hour of nothing happening he called me up and asked what's up with that! I think you need a much more concentrated form of heat (ie the charcoal brikkettes) than an open flame. Perhaps a blowtorch will work better.
BigBear
27-06-2008, 04:27 PM
I managed to light our anthracite with a type of Blowtorch we got for soldering coper pipes with.
1st lighted the charcoal which ignited the Anthracite.
Tried it directly on the Anthracite it kind of worked ,but you have to dodge alot of Anthracite splinters being shot @ you...LOL
Makro sells a cadac blowtorch for use with a cadac gas cylinder for R400, would work better to get underneath the ash trap in, our has 1 of those small gas canisters attached.
1st lighted the charcoal which ignited the Anthracite.
Tried it directly on the Anthracite it kind of worked ,but you have to dodge alot of Anthracite splinters being shot @ you...LOL
Makro sells a cadac blowtorch for use with a cadac gas cylinder for R400, would work better to get underneath the ash trap in, our has 1 of those small gas canisters attached.
adielk
21-05-2009, 07:53 PM
Does anybody have instructions on how to use a UNIVA antharcite heater?
I start a fire and the anthracite takes but after a few hours it burns out. I have UNIVA and the fan is on. It has been serviced as well recently.
I start a fire and the anthracite takes but after a few hours it burns out. I have UNIVA and the fan is on. It has been serviced as well recently.
thedutchman
21-05-2009, 09:41 PM
jet master
koffiejunkie
22-05-2009, 12:03 AM
I have a normal open flame fireplace which I wanna get rid of, you know the black steel one with the shield you can put in front, for a antracite closed controlled burn.
Anthracite ovens are the bomb! I had one in my house in Randburg - awesome in the winters.
2. Anthracite is kinda expensive, here in Bfn I pay R57 for a 40 kg bag which last me about 5 nights. They are supposed to be lit at the beginning of the winter and kept on all winter long, BUT that gets to be expensive, so I use mine as a normal fireplace which get lit after work each night and then burn without intervention for about 4 glorious hours.
You're not using it right, by the sound of it. You need to regulate the airflow. Anthracite is a bitch to light but once it burns it doesn't stop. You need to throttle the inflow of fresh air. The oven should have some sort of air valve at the bottom. Mine had a little flap at the front. This is open when you light the fire. As soon as you have coals, you close that down as far as you can without putting out the fire. Remember, hot air rises, so it will keep sucking air from below, so you can close it down pretty far. You want the coals to be burning as slow as you can without putting them out.
You also need to "jiggle the handle" every so often. I'm talking about the lever that shifts the metal frame that the coals rest on. This is to shake out ash to allow air to flow through. Do this no more often than every hour. You also need to make sure that you have enough space under the frame to accommodate the ash, or build in a kind of shoot that can let it fall away.
I used to light mine when I got home after work, at around 6-7ish. Clean out the oven, start a new fire. By bed time (around 3-ish for me), I throw on a few more coals. When I wake up the next morning, it's still going strong. And when I get home from work, there are still a few coals smoldering. A 40k bag used to last me at least two weeks.
Anthracite ovens are the bomb! I had one in my house in Randburg - awesome in the winters.
2. Anthracite is kinda expensive, here in Bfn I pay R57 for a 40 kg bag which last me about 5 nights. They are supposed to be lit at the beginning of the winter and kept on all winter long, BUT that gets to be expensive, so I use mine as a normal fireplace which get lit after work each night and then burn without intervention for about 4 glorious hours.
You're not using it right, by the sound of it. You need to regulate the airflow. Anthracite is a bitch to light but once it burns it doesn't stop. You need to throttle the inflow of fresh air. The oven should have some sort of air valve at the bottom. Mine had a little flap at the front. This is open when you light the fire. As soon as you have coals, you close that down as far as you can without putting out the fire. Remember, hot air rises, so it will keep sucking air from below, so you can close it down pretty far. You want the coals to be burning as slow as you can without putting them out.
You also need to "jiggle the handle" every so often. I'm talking about the lever that shifts the metal frame that the coals rest on. This is to shake out ash to allow air to flow through. Do this no more often than every hour. You also need to make sure that you have enough space under the frame to accommodate the ash, or build in a kind of shoot that can let it fall away.
I used to light mine when I got home after work, at around 6-7ish. Clean out the oven, start a new fire. By bed time (around 3-ish for me), I throw on a few more coals. When I wake up the next morning, it's still going strong. And when I get home from work, there are still a few coals smoldering. A 40k bag used to last me at least two weeks.
simonbee
22-05-2009, 07:01 AM
I live in the Randburg / Sandton area. does anyone know where I can buy anthracite / coke / coal from for my firecplace?
koffiejunkie
22-05-2009, 08:52 AM
simonbee, I used to buy from the petrol station on the corner of Conrad Dr. and Mackey Ave in Blairgowrie.
risingtide
22-05-2009, 03:35 PM
Yesterday's Argus had a Home Improvement supplement. Morso fireplaces caught my eye. Free-standing or built-in fireplace, a closed wood burning system.
www.morso.co.za
www.morso.co.za
adielk
22-05-2009, 06:27 PM
Thanks. I presume the little lever on the side is what you are talking about becuase it does move the grid. There is also a lever showing min to max on side at back of Univa Arthur martin so I presume that is the airflow one. I presume it controls the fan which is electrical.
I got a fire lasting until 6 next morning but died during day after starting fire in a firestarter with blitz and charcoal. Canot seem to keep going however so must be doing something wrong.
I got a fire lasting until 6 next morning but died during day after starting fire in a firestarter with blitz and charcoal. Canot seem to keep going however so must be doing something wrong.
koffiejunkie
22-05-2009, 06:45 PM
I presume it controls the fan which is electrical.
Electrical fan? :confused: What for? No wonder your fire doesn't last! You want air moving ssslllloooooooowwwwwwllllyyy....
Electrical fan? :confused: What for? No wonder your fire doesn't last! You want air moving ssslllloooooooowwwwwwllllyyy....
adielk
23-05-2009, 02:51 AM
Isn't more air better? When I say die I don't mean it burns too quickly hwat happens is - huge chunks are left over and new ones added don't always burn. Fan - you are right that it clearly makes things glow and thus burn quicker out if fan is on. Fan is built into the UNIVA - I presume to circulate air. Had fire glowing and then added small ones and that caused anthracite to go out. Will try and layer it slowly with two layers of glowing anthracite before adding new ones.
Could the quality of the anthracite itself, in storage from 3 years ago, also be the problem?
Could the quality of the anthracite itself, in storage from 3 years ago, also be the problem?
koffiejunkie
23-05-2009, 03:06 AM
No. The whole point of the oven, being made of thick metal, is that the fire heats up the metal, the metal heats up your house. Once the oven is hot, you only need to keep it at temperature, and for that, a very slow fire is more than adequate.
Yeah, when you add new coles you have to give it more air until they take fire a bit. Don't layer it too tightly though, if you pack the layers too tightly, you cut of airflow. I know I said you want the air to move as slowly as possible, but you need it to go all the way through, otherwise the fire will die out pretty quickly.
Yeah, when you add new coles you have to give it more air until they take fire a bit. Don't layer it too tightly though, if you pack the layers too tightly, you cut of airflow. I know I said you want the air to move as slowly as possible, but you need it to go all the way through, otherwise the fire will die out pretty quickly.
adielk
23-05-2009, 03:33 AM
The guys who serviced my heater, started a fire, loaded it with antharcite but it burnt out. They put on the fan, had the flow on low and damper/grid lever on closed.
Below photo of my anthracite fireside heater
http://stovemecca.netfirms.com/heaters_files/image004.jpg
Below photo of my anthracite fireside heater
http://stovemecca.netfirms.com/heaters_files/image004.jpg
adielk
24-05-2009, 07:31 AM
Thnaks for advice. Fire is going even with hopper half loaded. However in section on right it seems to die out. But rest is OK as far as i can see. So all i have to do is clean ashes, Skahe coal grid regularly and reload hopper regularly in small loads.
I am Penguin
24-05-2009, 09:20 AM
Isn't more air better? When I say die I don't mean it burns too quickly hwat happens is - huge chunks are left over and new ones added don't always burn. Fan - you are right that it clearly makes things glow and thus burn quicker out if fan is on. Fan is built into the UNIVA - I presume to circulate air. Had fire glowing and then added small ones and that caused anthracite to go out. Will try and layer it slowly with two layers of glowing anthracite before adding new ones.
Could the quality of the anthracite itself, in storage from 3 years ago, also be the problem?
OLD anthracite may be dead! Buy fresh and mix rather.
Could the quality of the anthracite itself, in storage from 3 years ago, also be the problem?
OLD anthracite may be dead! Buy fresh and mix rather.
Arko2
24-05-2009, 11:33 AM
Below photo of my anthracite fireside heater
http://stovemecca.netfirms.com/heate...s/image004.jpg
I've got the same ,but using wood only. The iron basket inside
is totally burnt away since I purchased it second hand and repaired.
No Anthracit, only wood , but the make is Univa and I had to replace
the front door glasses.The whole house is warm. Blitz, a bit of Charcoal
Brickets then only wood works like a dream. I don't purchase the wood,
I've got myself a chainsaw and have a daily excercise. Chopping wood.
http://stovemecca.netfirms.com/heate...s/image004.jpg
I've got the same ,but using wood only. The iron basket inside
is totally burnt away since I purchased it second hand and repaired.
No Anthracit, only wood , but the make is Univa and I had to replace
the front door glasses.The whole house is warm. Blitz, a bit of Charcoal
Brickets then only wood works like a dream. I don't purchase the wood,
I've got myself a chainsaw and have a daily excercise. Chopping wood.
AmaDownload
24-05-2009, 12:46 PM
Yesterday's Argus had a Home Improvement supplement. Morso fireplaces caught my eye. Free-standing or built-in fireplace, a closed wood burning system.
www.morso.co.za
I wasn't going to say anything, but since with word fell - MORSO
We had a MORSO for 9 years in our roomy thatch plot house and this thing screams BTU's like no other unit would. Plus you could stick anything in it - Wood, paper, motherinlaw, radioactive pawpaw - it converts it to heat for you !
If you use anthracite in a Morso and you'd expect it to burn through the night you need to experiment somewhat with this fireplace to tweak the amount of oxygen (inlet) you'll allow to give it.. Too little - the fire dies, Too much, the fire finishes - it is a real art to get it right to wake up with a hot MORSO in the house..
:confused:
Oh, if you browse these forums a bit more, you'll find my gripe with the fact they charge freaking R600 for an A3 (SMALL) sized clear window pane my maid broke on my MORSO. - I still did not replace it, because it is just one crack and who pays R600 for a A3 sized window in an economy like this? Hey? For R600 I can probably get an au-pair to keep me warm and cosy for some time..
Either, or :-)
www.morso.co.za
I wasn't going to say anything, but since with word fell - MORSO
We had a MORSO for 9 years in our roomy thatch plot house and this thing screams BTU's like no other unit would. Plus you could stick anything in it - Wood, paper, motherinlaw, radioactive pawpaw - it converts it to heat for you !
If you use anthracite in a Morso and you'd expect it to burn through the night you need to experiment somewhat with this fireplace to tweak the amount of oxygen (inlet) you'll allow to give it.. Too little - the fire dies, Too much, the fire finishes - it is a real art to get it right to wake up with a hot MORSO in the house..
:confused:
Oh, if you browse these forums a bit more, you'll find my gripe with the fact they charge freaking R600 for an A3 (SMALL) sized clear window pane my maid broke on my MORSO. - I still did not replace it, because it is just one crack and who pays R600 for a A3 sized window in an economy like this? Hey? For R600 I can probably get an au-pair to keep me warm and cosy for some time..
Either, or :-)
Arko2
24-05-2009, 12:59 PM
R 640,00 I paid for the Strips on the frontdoor there are 22 Glass strips.
I then had them fitted to the door, for R 1600,00 total, but it is worth
it.As said I only burn wood Eucalyptos don't know if the spelling is correct.
But there are very hard and long burning.
I then had them fitted to the door, for R 1600,00 total, but it is worth
it.As said I only burn wood Eucalyptos don't know if the spelling is correct.
But there are very hard and long burning.
AmaDownload
26-05-2009, 04:08 AM
R 640,00 I paid for the Strips on the frontdoor there are 22 Glass strips.
I then had them fitted to the door, for R 1600,00 total, but it is worth
it.As said I only burn wood Eucalyptos don't know if the spelling is correct.
But there are very hard and long burning.
You chose glass over an au-pair :-)
Maybe a more sustainable choice, in more ways than one :-)
For the fuel: If your chimney is nice and high, try anthracite, it is like burning rocks, but once they go, they produce a heck of heat!
I then had them fitted to the door, for R 1600,00 total, but it is worth
it.As said I only burn wood Eucalyptos don't know if the spelling is correct.
But there are very hard and long burning.
You chose glass over an au-pair :-)
Maybe a more sustainable choice, in more ways than one :-)
For the fuel: If your chimney is nice and high, try anthracite, it is like burning rocks, but once they go, they produce a heck of heat!
pope24
06-06-2009, 12:37 PM
I love MyBB. I think let me check on line for hints and tips about lighting an anthracite fire and look where I find them
You guys rock.
I will report back on my project.
You guys rock.
I will report back on my project.
AmaDownload
06-06-2009, 12:44 PM
I love MyBB. I think let me check on line for hints and tips about lighting an anthracite fire and look where I find them
You guys rock.
I will report back on my project.
Starting an Anthracite fire is one thing; Keeping it going is the trick we need to master and share on this board :-)
AmaDownload
You guys rock.
I will report back on my project.
Starting an Anthracite fire is one thing; Keeping it going is the trick we need to master and share on this board :-)
AmaDownload
adielk
26-07-2009, 06:07 PM
Hope thjis helps. Gota number of other articles from web
Laying an anthracite or log fire:
1.Before lighting the fire, open a window or ventilator on the windward side slightly to pressurise the room, ensuring that the fireplace will not smoke and to provide sufficient air for combustion.
2.Place two or three layers of paper balls on the grate. These are made by scrunching up individual sheets of old newspaper into ball shapes.
3.Place some kindling (dry and finely cut small pieces and splinters of wood) or fragments of wax and paraffin fire lighters at random on top of the paper balls.
4.Pile one or two layers of anthracite or slightly larger pieces of wood on top of the paper balls. Don’t pack to tight.
5.Open the damper to maximise the intake of air from the room. Once the fire is well on its way it is usually best to close the damper partially so as to reduce the amount of heat escaping up the chimney.
6.Light the paper balls in three of four randomly spaced places.
7.To assist the burning paper in heating up and igniting the coals or logs, you can use fire bellows (which increases the amount of oxygen required for the combustion process).
8.Once the fire is lit, gradually add more layers of anthracite or larger logs, taking care not to apply too much too soon, or you will dampen down the fire and possibly extinguish it.
9.When further refueling is required it may be necessary to open the damper again.
Choosing the correct fuel:
1.Use dry, seasoned wood. The moisture content of wood directly affects the way the appliance operates. Well seasoned dry wood (cut, split and stacked under cover for at least 12 months) will give best results and least problems.
2.Wet or green wood not only creates more work for you due to the increased weight when carrying it, but most importantly will not burn efficiently. You will receive less heat from wet/green wood as energy is used to evaporate the moisture from the wood.
3.Ideally, seasoned wood should contain 12% to 22% moisture. Wood with a moisture content of more than 22% will require a great deal more air to light, heat output will be cut dramatically, and soot and creosote will build up in your flue system. In addition, you may have smoke warting back into the room. If you hear your wood sizzle or you can see moisture bubbling from the ends of the logs placed on a hot fire, your wood is too wet.
4.If the fuel you are burning tends to splatter, the use of a Home Fires fire screen is recommended. Low grade anthracite tends to splatter a lot. Use only high grade anthracite and use large nuts of anthracite or coke.
5.Never use wood of the pine family. Pine contains a very high amount of resin. This can cause dangerous soot build-up and which can overheat your fireplace.
6.You may use anthracite in your fireplace. Buy the best grade of anthracite in order to prevent splattering and to produce more heat.
7.Do NOT use coal or briquettes.
Laying an anthracite or log fire:
1.Before lighting the fire, open a window or ventilator on the windward side slightly to pressurise the room, ensuring that the fireplace will not smoke and to provide sufficient air for combustion.
2.Place two or three layers of paper balls on the grate. These are made by scrunching up individual sheets of old newspaper into ball shapes.
3.Place some kindling (dry and finely cut small pieces and splinters of wood) or fragments of wax and paraffin fire lighters at random on top of the paper balls.
4.Pile one or two layers of anthracite or slightly larger pieces of wood on top of the paper balls. Don’t pack to tight.
5.Open the damper to maximise the intake of air from the room. Once the fire is well on its way it is usually best to close the damper partially so as to reduce the amount of heat escaping up the chimney.
6.Light the paper balls in three of four randomly spaced places.
7.To assist the burning paper in heating up and igniting the coals or logs, you can use fire bellows (which increases the amount of oxygen required for the combustion process).
8.Once the fire is lit, gradually add more layers of anthracite or larger logs, taking care not to apply too much too soon, or you will dampen down the fire and possibly extinguish it.
9.When further refueling is required it may be necessary to open the damper again.
Choosing the correct fuel:
1.Use dry, seasoned wood. The moisture content of wood directly affects the way the appliance operates. Well seasoned dry wood (cut, split and stacked under cover for at least 12 months) will give best results and least problems.
2.Wet or green wood not only creates more work for you due to the increased weight when carrying it, but most importantly will not burn efficiently. You will receive less heat from wet/green wood as energy is used to evaporate the moisture from the wood.
3.Ideally, seasoned wood should contain 12% to 22% moisture. Wood with a moisture content of more than 22% will require a great deal more air to light, heat output will be cut dramatically, and soot and creosote will build up in your flue system. In addition, you may have smoke warting back into the room. If you hear your wood sizzle or you can see moisture bubbling from the ends of the logs placed on a hot fire, your wood is too wet.
4.If the fuel you are burning tends to splatter, the use of a Home Fires fire screen is recommended. Low grade anthracite tends to splatter a lot. Use only high grade anthracite and use large nuts of anthracite or coke.
5.Never use wood of the pine family. Pine contains a very high amount of resin. This can cause dangerous soot build-up and which can overheat your fireplace.
6.You may use anthracite in your fireplace. Buy the best grade of anthracite in order to prevent splattering and to produce more heat.
7.Do NOT use coal or briquettes.
adielk
26-07-2009, 06:09 PM
Another article
Starting a Coal Stove for "Hard Coal"
by: ultimateproductsusa( 31)
12 out of 14 people found this guide helpful.
Guide viewed: 4897 times Tags: coal stoves | starting coal | coal fire | burning coal | lighting coal
Before you light your coal stove, inspect the pipe and flues; it will save your life. The pipe connecting the stove to to the chimney should be at least 24 gauge. Thicker gauges may be available and will resist corrosion longer and need fewer replacements. Slope the flue pipe back toward the heater, 1/4 inch per foot of horizontal run, so that any condensation forming in the pipe will be carried back into the heater. The connector pipe should be installed so that the upper pipe section fits inside the lower section. This way any creosote or soot building up inside the pipe will stay inside the pipe as it flows down the inside surface. Horizontal pipe runs should have the pipe seams turned up. Particular attention should be paid to the point where the flue passes through a wall or ceiling. This penetration should always be made with insulated pipe and the proper accessories. Chimney connectors must not pass through the veiling, concealed spaces, or enter the chimney in the attic, unless proper clearance or insulated pipe used with manufactured clearance.
REMEMBER, that all pipe sections should be connected with at least three sheet metal screws per joint. A fire in the stack may cause vibrations and poorly fastened piping may fall. Assure that the chimney connection pipe extends at least two inches into the chimney, but does not extend so far into the chimney flue that it blocks air flow. Where the pipe connects to a masonry chimney, it must be cemented to the chimney, or, a thimble must be connected to the chimney and the pipe should be tightly inserted into the thimble without cementing. A barometric damper should be installed between the heater and chimney. The barometric damper prevents over heating of your heater, as well as a more efficient stove operation.
With that out of the way . . . Starting a Coal fire is not like lighting a barbeque. You will need some kindling; small pieces of good dry wood about 8” to 10” long and never use pressure treat wood as it is poisonous. You can use small branches and then break them up to usable sizes. It is recommended that you have some easy lighting work like maple and some heavier work like oak as kindling. Place balled up single sheets of newspaper in the firebox; covering the bottom. Stack two layers of kindling, perpendicular to each other. Open the flue in the chimney and the damper on the stovepipe to 100%. [Warning: Never close either the flue in the chimney and the damper on the stovepipe until the stove has been out and cool for many days, with coals and ashes removed.]
Prove your Draft: Use a single sheet of paper, light one end then quickly blow it out and put it in the firebox. The smoke should not come out at you it should go up the chimney; if it doesn’t you either have a big problem or a cold chimney. If the smoke went up the chimney . . . Then with the ash door closed, open the air inlet on the ash door to 100%; primary air. Light the newspaper under the kindling and close the door on the firebox. You fire should come to life, let the kindling burn down to low flaming coals and then add some more kindling. Let the kindling burn down again; repeat these steps until you have a bed of wood coals glow red. Add a small amounts of anthracite nut or pea coal on top of kindling; approximately 1” to 2” of a layer. The coal will begin to crackle and after about 15 minutes it will begin to glow.
Once the coal begins to burn add more a coal in small amounts of anthracite nut or pea coal until you have a large area of coal burning; about 6” layer. Now begin to fill your hopper slowly. (To fast may choke out the fire). When the coal is burning properly and receiving proper air you are done. Maintain your desired heating temperature by adjusting you primary are to the 50% position and if you have it, adjust your automatic thermostat on the rear for a desired temperature. Now regulate your slide draft on the ash door to keep the stove burning at the temperature you desire. You are up and running, now read these follow-up and daily duties.
Never use gasoline, kerosene, charcoal lighter or any type flammable fluid to start your fire.
Refueling: Keep your hopper full. Should your hopper run empty add coal very slowly so you will not choke out the fire. It is best to fill the hopper before completely empty.
Ashes: You must keep your ashes cleaned out under the grates. This may require emptying your ash pan daily, depending how hard you burn it and how often you shake your grates. Your stove will choke it self out if the ash pan becomes over full. Store you ashes in a metal can, ASH CAN or Use a HOD; Coal bucket. Never store ashes indoors and when storing them outdoor be careful as they can stay hot for many days. Keep ashes away from combustables.
Remember: Control your stoves temperature with primary air and fuel load. Never close the flue when the stove has been in use. Coal fires are a little hard to start but once started then stay started and are very hard to put out.
01/04/2006 PSCHROEBEL UTIMATEPRODUCTSUSA
Guide ID: 10000000000133023Guide created: 01/04/06 (updated 11/13/08)
Starting a Coal Stove for "Hard Coal"
by: ultimateproductsusa( 31)
12 out of 14 people found this guide helpful.
Guide viewed: 4897 times Tags: coal stoves | starting coal | coal fire | burning coal | lighting coal
Before you light your coal stove, inspect the pipe and flues; it will save your life. The pipe connecting the stove to to the chimney should be at least 24 gauge. Thicker gauges may be available and will resist corrosion longer and need fewer replacements. Slope the flue pipe back toward the heater, 1/4 inch per foot of horizontal run, so that any condensation forming in the pipe will be carried back into the heater. The connector pipe should be installed so that the upper pipe section fits inside the lower section. This way any creosote or soot building up inside the pipe will stay inside the pipe as it flows down the inside surface. Horizontal pipe runs should have the pipe seams turned up. Particular attention should be paid to the point where the flue passes through a wall or ceiling. This penetration should always be made with insulated pipe and the proper accessories. Chimney connectors must not pass through the veiling, concealed spaces, or enter the chimney in the attic, unless proper clearance or insulated pipe used with manufactured clearance.
REMEMBER, that all pipe sections should be connected with at least three sheet metal screws per joint. A fire in the stack may cause vibrations and poorly fastened piping may fall. Assure that the chimney connection pipe extends at least two inches into the chimney, but does not extend so far into the chimney flue that it blocks air flow. Where the pipe connects to a masonry chimney, it must be cemented to the chimney, or, a thimble must be connected to the chimney and the pipe should be tightly inserted into the thimble without cementing. A barometric damper should be installed between the heater and chimney. The barometric damper prevents over heating of your heater, as well as a more efficient stove operation.
With that out of the way . . . Starting a Coal fire is not like lighting a barbeque. You will need some kindling; small pieces of good dry wood about 8” to 10” long and never use pressure treat wood as it is poisonous. You can use small branches and then break them up to usable sizes. It is recommended that you have some easy lighting work like maple and some heavier work like oak as kindling. Place balled up single sheets of newspaper in the firebox; covering the bottom. Stack two layers of kindling, perpendicular to each other. Open the flue in the chimney and the damper on the stovepipe to 100%. [Warning: Never close either the flue in the chimney and the damper on the stovepipe until the stove has been out and cool for many days, with coals and ashes removed.]
Prove your Draft: Use a single sheet of paper, light one end then quickly blow it out and put it in the firebox. The smoke should not come out at you it should go up the chimney; if it doesn’t you either have a big problem or a cold chimney. If the smoke went up the chimney . . . Then with the ash door closed, open the air inlet on the ash door to 100%; primary air. Light the newspaper under the kindling and close the door on the firebox. You fire should come to life, let the kindling burn down to low flaming coals and then add some more kindling. Let the kindling burn down again; repeat these steps until you have a bed of wood coals glow red. Add a small amounts of anthracite nut or pea coal on top of kindling; approximately 1” to 2” of a layer. The coal will begin to crackle and after about 15 minutes it will begin to glow.
Once the coal begins to burn add more a coal in small amounts of anthracite nut or pea coal until you have a large area of coal burning; about 6” layer. Now begin to fill your hopper slowly. (To fast may choke out the fire). When the coal is burning properly and receiving proper air you are done. Maintain your desired heating temperature by adjusting you primary are to the 50% position and if you have it, adjust your automatic thermostat on the rear for a desired temperature. Now regulate your slide draft on the ash door to keep the stove burning at the temperature you desire. You are up and running, now read these follow-up and daily duties.
Never use gasoline, kerosene, charcoal lighter or any type flammable fluid to start your fire.
Refueling: Keep your hopper full. Should your hopper run empty add coal very slowly so you will not choke out the fire. It is best to fill the hopper before completely empty.
Ashes: You must keep your ashes cleaned out under the grates. This may require emptying your ash pan daily, depending how hard you burn it and how often you shake your grates. Your stove will choke it self out if the ash pan becomes over full. Store you ashes in a metal can, ASH CAN or Use a HOD; Coal bucket. Never store ashes indoors and when storing them outdoor be careful as they can stay hot for many days. Keep ashes away from combustables.
Remember: Control your stoves temperature with primary air and fuel load. Never close the flue when the stove has been in use. Coal fires are a little hard to start but once started then stay started and are very hard to put out.
01/04/2006 PSCHROEBEL UTIMATEPRODUCTSUSA
Guide ID: 10000000000133023Guide created: 01/04/06 (updated 11/13/08)
adielk
26-07-2009, 06:14 PM
Saw that you can burn wood as well. Will give my anthracite a last try because met someone who says he will show me how to use it. If not then wood it is or a new anthracite heater.
anthony.schluter
01-08-2009, 07:48 PM
Does anyone know anything about becker anthracite heaters?
I can't keep mine burning for longer than 6 hours
Which really sucks please help!
I can't keep mine burning for longer than 6 hours
Which really sucks please help!
I am Penguin
01-08-2009, 08:03 PM
Does anyone know anything about becker anthracite heaters?
I can't keep mine burning for longer than 6 hours
Which really sucks please help!
After the 6 hours what is left? Unburned coals or just ashes?
Maybe clogging up with ash or draft problems. You need to use a poker to poke out all the ash and burned materials unless you have a grate that is moveable to release the burned ash. This must be done while the coals are still burning yellow so that new coal can be topped up and allowed to fire before the old caols burn out. Clean out the ash bin to allow air to enter freely from below the coals.
Check the damper settings or air inflow settings.
I can't keep mine burning for longer than 6 hours
Which really sucks please help!
After the 6 hours what is left? Unburned coals or just ashes?
Maybe clogging up with ash or draft problems. You need to use a poker to poke out all the ash and burned materials unless you have a grate that is moveable to release the burned ash. This must be done while the coals are still burning yellow so that new coal can be topped up and allowed to fire before the old caols burn out. Clean out the ash bin to allow air to enter freely from below the coals.
Check the damper settings or air inflow settings.
adielk
29-08-2009, 03:54 AM
What one needs is a manual to tell one how to operate these anthracite heaters. Who made these Univa heaters that one could approach for support.
Sinbad
13-07-2011, 10:52 AM
THREAD RESURRECTION!!!
I have an old anthracite heater in the garage. Given the complete inability of anyone in this country to keep things running properly (HELLO AFROX) gas isn't such a good option any more.
Can anyone recommend a good provider to come and reinstall this animal for me? Randburg/Blairgowrie area...
Thanks :)
I have an old anthracite heater in the garage. Given the complete inability of anyone in this country to keep things running properly (HELLO AFROX) gas isn't such a good option any more.
Can anyone recommend a good provider to come and reinstall this animal for me? Randburg/Blairgowrie area...
Thanks :)
jen@laserphonics.co.za
18-07-2011, 01:26 PM
I have a normal open flame fireplace which I wanna get rid of, you know the black steel one with the shield you can put in front, for a antracite closed controlled burn.
Any recommendations?
Re your anthracite heater have you jettisoned it yet? If not, sell it to me!
Any recommendations?
Re your anthracite heater have you jettisoned it yet? If not, sell it to me!
Garyvdh
04-04-2012, 03:16 PM
THREAD RESURRECTION!!!
OK, so my parents want to get one of these installed.
Who is currently the best to have this done in Joburg Area?
OK, so my parents want to get one of these installed.
Who is currently the best to have this done in Joburg Area?