Have you tried to see if using HDMI1 vs HDMI2-4 makes a difference to how your GPU driver reacts using a HDMI-HDMI cable (specifically wrt to overscan/picture scaling)? Also how having the TV Picture Size set to Screen Fit or 16:9 influences PQ from the different HDMI ports?Originally Posted by Grimspoon
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http://reviews.cnet.com/tv-buying-gu...ecs-to-ignore/
Interesting article on Cnet: Specs to ignore on HDTVs
My 46D6000 preferred settings (for musha) ...
Picture
Picture Mode: Movie
Backlight: 13
Contrast: 95
Brightness: 50
Sharpness: 0
Colour: 50
Tint 50/50
Screen Adjustment
Picture Size: Screen Fit
Advanced Settings
Black Tone: Darker
Dynamic Contrast: Off
Shadow Detail: 2
Gamma: 0
Colour Space: Auto
White Balance -> All Offset at 25, all Gain at 20
10p White Balance: Off
Flesh Tone: 0
Edge Enhancement:Off
Motion Lighting: Off
xvYCC: Off
LED Motion Plus: Off
Picture Options
Colour Tone: Standard
Digital Noise Filter: Off
MPEG Noise Filter: Off
HDMI Black Level : Normal for HDPVR (unsettable), Low for PS3
Film Mode: Off
Motion Plus: Clear
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Thanks Roman. Will change the settings tonight and see how it turns out!
You've got the contrast really cranked up there and the backlight? I've found having it set to a little darker actually produces a more natural picture.
Do you hear the voices, too?
He does not like natural picture - he likes surreal picture popping with washed out colours.
It does seem to be that way, as having the contrast and the backlight at those levels will produce a very washed out picture, everything else is about right.
Do you hear the voices, too?
He has a bright room, huge windows etc. hence his love for LCD and lack of understanding of plasma, its superior natural PQ, etc. So only those with bright rooms and conservatories should use those settings. I'm sure they'll be good.
Tsk tsk back at it ;-) I suppose it really does depend on the lighting, I've got my contrast set to 65 and my backlight never goes over 10. These settings are a good guideline and it should be dependent on the viewing area.
Do you hear the voices, too?
Depends on your preferences/environment, but search the Net, there plenty of settings posted for the D6x00s using calibration disks/cameras. Besides a few of my tweaks, they usually fall within range of the settings I've posted (I've tried most of them).
Not being an owner of a D6/5K LED, your input as usual is just meaningless drivel/trolling.He does not like natural picture - he likes surreal picture popping with washed out colours.
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Read down, actually defended your settings:
Don't need to own them to understand that high brightness and contrast would not be used in a dim room. Just like Lupus thought. Similar to why it's not good testing TVs in a mass mart store. Well it was OK for you, bright room and all. Most TV rooms I've seen are dim though, so I'd guess the majority of TV rooms across the world are as such.
Last edited by PostmanPot; 21-12-2011 at 12:51 PM.
Yes you do, without having the TV model in front of you, you won't know what the exact end result will be.
You also need to comprehend all settings holistically, using Picture Mode=Movie and Colour Tone=Standard produces very neutral/natural colours, so boosting some of the other settings does not result in washed out or overly exaggerated colours. I do however drop the RGB Gain by 5 so that peak whites are not overwhelming e.g. soccer players with white uniforms.
Only setting I would change for a less bright environment is brightness (down to 40-45). Backlight is not that important, remember its a peak, the LEDs dynamically adjust (dim) the backlight depending on screen content.
Lastly there isn't a big linkage between colour accuracy & contrast, as mentioned most published calibrated settings for the D6x00s put contrast in the 85-100 range e.g.
http://reviews.lcdtvbuyingguide.com/...-p2.html#page2
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