12v 3a & 48v 850ma backup power ideas

Willie Trombone

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Does anyone have suggestions on how I can keep 12v at 3a and 48v at 840ma up for 8 hours or more?
My Satellite box has a dual input PSU with the above capability and I'd love to be able to keep it up for 8 hours or so.
Any suggestions are welcome.

It will be easier to go solar for the whole house in the long run which I'm planning on... but it would be nice to be able to keep this thing running while the power is down in the interim.
Maybe I should just get an inverter and a couple of good batteries for now that can link up with the new solar system when I get it?
 

Willie Trombone

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48v sounds like PoE?
Nah, it's just 48v and 12v via a round DIN like plug. It's a Hughes HT2000 router (mine only has one LAN port and no WiFi):

large
 

SauRoNZA

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Nah, it's just 48v and 12v via a round DIN like plug. It's a Hughes HT2000 router (mine only has one LAN port and no WiFi):

large

Aaah right very tricky that one as it needs to send power to the dish as well.

If you don’t mind manually switching it over one of those Ellies Powercubes would probably do the job.
 

Willie Trombone

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Aaah right very tricky that one as it needs to send power to the dish as well.

If you don’t mind manually switching it over one of those Ellies Powercubes would probably do the job.
I'm not seeing any that support 48v unfortunately...
I like the look of them though.
 

Geoff.D

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Does anyone have suggestions on how I can keep 12v at 3a and 48v at 840ma up for 8 hours or more?
My Satellite box has a dual input PSU with the above capability and I'd love to be able to keep it up for 8 hours or so.
Any suggestions are welcome.

It will be easier to go solar for the whole house in the long run which I'm planning on... but it would be nice to be able to keep this thing running while the power is down in the interim.
Maybe I should just get an inverter and a couple of good batteries for now that can link up with the new solar system when I get it?
The power brick for those things runs on AC 230 Volt. Just check the power bricks spec and provide 8 hours of pure sine wave 230 Volt AC back up via an inverter and batteries. If you try and fiddle at the intermediate DC power points, the system will just not operate at all.
 

Willie Trombone

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The power brick for those things runs on AC 230 Volt. Just check the power bricks spec and provide 8 hours of pure sine wave 230 Volt AC back up via an inverter and batteries. If you try and fiddle at the intermediate DC power points, the system will just not operate at all.
Yeah, I think this is the simplest solution.
Given that I'm likely to be going solar this month I may as well hold off for now.
Thanks for the advice!
 

Magnum

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The power brick for those things runs on AC 230 Volt. Just check the power bricks spec and provide 8 hours of pure sine wave 230 Volt AC back up via an inverter and batteries. If you try and fiddle at the intermediate DC power points, the system will just not operate at all.
The "Power Brick" you are referring to is most probably a Switch mode power supply... A little unknown Secret is that they convert AC to DC in the first step. a Pure sine wave inverter is not needed for a Switch mode power supply as Computers run off modified sine UPS backups.

I hack the power supplies and Tie in on the DC BUS, Did a Cell charger 2 weeks ago. Makes a nice High voltage low power DC DC buck.

Electrical engineering states that RMS is .707 of peak. DC is pure peak. that gives you 310V DC off a 240v AC supply.

All the Components should be rated at least 400V in a switch mode power supply. Higher quality designs have 600V rated components and are more spike tolerant.
 

SauRoNZA

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I'm not seeing any that support 48v unfortunately...
I like the look of them though.

No I meant to feed it AC and use the standard power supply.

But if going solar doesn’t make sense to do it all now.

 

Geoff.D

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The "Power Brick" you are referring to is most probably a Switch mode power supply... A little unknown Secret is that they convert AC to DC in the first step. a Pure sine wave inverter is not needed for a Switch mode power supply as Computers run off modified sine UPS backups.

I hack the power supplies and Tie in on the DC BUS, Did a Cell charger 2 weeks ago. Makes a nice High voltage low power DC DC buck.

Electrical engineering states that RMS is .707 of peak. DC is pure peak. that gives you 310V DC off a 240v AC supply.

All the Components should be rated at least 400V in a switch mode power supply. Higher quality designs have 600V rated components and are more spike tolerant.
Ja sure, if you have the background and knowledge, go ahead. But Hughes systems are highly integrated with all sorts of sw checks including control of the power brick.
 

Willie Trombone

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Ja sure, if you have the background and knowledge, go ahead. But Hughes systems are highly integrated with all sorts of sw checks including control of the power brick.
Yeah, good point. I suspect it would complain if it wasn't getting the right vibes from the power source. I wouldn't be surprised if there's something intelligent built into the brick.
 

Willie Trombone

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Yeah but I believe this one can’t switch to backup automatically for some reason and you need to manually flip it over.

Never actually got confirmation of it.
That's probably less of an issue for me really, I guess it's more about how long it can hold the system up...
 

Willie Trombone

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I used a DC-DC buck-boost converter to get 48VDC for PoE. Not sure if the OP wants to go down the DIY path.

Actually you make a good point. The 12v supply requires 3a but the 48v only 0.85a - does anyone know how many amps I need to supply at 12v to be able to get 48v 0.85a and still have 12v 3a to supply the 12v circuit?
This is probably mostly moot since I suspect the brick has some intelligence built in and might need to be present in the equasion. I'll likely just go with a 2.4kVa Mecer or Ellies box with 2x 100ah batteries.
 

Old_Liver

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Actually you make a good point. The 12v supply requires 3a but the 48v only 0.85a - does anyone know how many amps I need to supply at 12v to be able to get 48v 0.85a and still have 12v 3a to supply the 12v circuit?
This is probably mostly moot since I suspect the brick has some intelligence built in and might need to be present in the equasion. I'll likely just go with a 2.4kVa Mecer or Ellies box with 2x 100ah batteries.

Without any losses taken into account, you'd need 12V 3.4A to match 48V 0.85A
 

Willie Trombone

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Without any losses taken into account, you'd need 12V 3.4A to match 48V 0.85A
OK, so if my 12v supply was at 4a, I should be OK. Of course this is all theory.

I do like the look of this for a portable option
 
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