Kosmik
Honorary Master
- Joined
- Sep 21, 2007
- Messages
- 25,662
Cookie cuttersFinally fixed that issue... Printing again..
Except now I'm printing things for the missus, so maybe it sjould have stayed broken![]()
Cookie cuttersFinally fixed that issue... Printing again..
Except now I'm printing things for the missus, so maybe it sjould have stayed broken![]()
Nah... Cricut stuff.. Missus has moved on from making cookies thank fsck.Cookie cutters
Finally fixed that issue... Printing again..
Except now I'm printing things for the missus, so maybe it sjould have stayed broken![]()
Those damn e-steps gave me huge grief because when I bought the printer I swopped the plastic extruder for an aluminuim one and it changed the steps from 93 to 97.3Yeh, kinda annoying when the SO's start realizing the potential - I'm busy printing planters (Robert) for the bathroom.
Spent most of yesterday trying to figure out why my printer was under extruding - checked for blockages, etc, couldn't find the issue, this morning I had a shower moment and realised I updated the firmware and hadn't set the e-steps.
Yeh, kinda annoying when the SO's start realizing the potential - I'm busy printing planters (Robert) for the bathroom.
Spent most of yesterday trying to figure out why my printer was under extruding - checked for blockages, etc, couldn't find the issue, this morning I had a shower moment and realised I updated the firmware and hadn't set the e-steps.
Yeh, using jyers, but also changed my extruder - but mine goes from 93 to 140... so having it back at 93 was a big issue.Those damn e-steps gave me huge grief because when I bought the printer I swopped the plastic extruder for an aluminuim one and it changed the steps from 93 to 97.3
Oh, and if you are compiling your own marvin, you can set it in code before build. @ToxicBunny , you should check out tweaking your own firmware, pretty fun.
Still trying to understand Jyers vs Marlin.Yeh, using jyers, but also changed my extruder - but mine goes from 93 to 140... so having it back at 93 was a big issue.
I think Jyers is just a pre-compiled version of Marlin for the Ender3v2.Still trying to understand Jyers vs Marlin.
My understanding is resin is good for high detail in small sizes. But strength wise, not sure, I think there is a resin called ABS like that has similar properties to ABS which is the most common plastic form out there.I've got a Cheap Chinese printer off Gearbest a couple of years ago and it has served me well. I did the PLA and ABS expidition, Which is all good. Now how does Resin printers compare in strength vs ABS and PLA? I print Mechanical creations for myself as a hobby and when I get bored. Gearboxes and gears specifically. ( learning to Design those was an Experience on it's own...)
Generally if I want strength I still prefer FDM prints, especially at larger sizes. Depending on torque etc. smaller functional parts could be really nice on resin - you'll get great quality and can print multiple parts at once but they will be more brittle than pla, tho this might not be an issue depending on how your gears are working. There are engineering resins but for most use cases the additional cost doesn't really warrant it when a regular pla print will do the job.I've got a Cheap Chinese printer off Gearbest a couple of years ago and it has served me well. I did the PLA and ABS expidition, Which is all good. Now how does Resin printers compare in strength vs ABS and PLA? I print Mechanical creations for myself as a hobby and when I get bored. Gearboxes and gears specifically. ( learning to Design those was an Experience on it's own...)
Thanks I will keep it in mind.Generally if I want strength I still prefer FDM prints, especially at larger sizes. Depending on torque etc. smaller functional parts could be really nice on resin - you'll get great quality and can print multiple parts at once but they will be more brittle than pla, tho this might not be an issue depending on how your gears are working. There are engineering resins but for most use cases the additional cost doesn't really warrant it when a regular pla print will do the job.
Can probably print a few small parts for you if you want to cover shipping to see what its like.
I've got a Cheap Chinese printer off Gearbest a couple of years ago and it has served me well. I did the PLA and ABS expidition, Which is all good. Now how does Resin printers compare in strength vs ABS and PLA? I print Mechanical creations for myself as a hobby and when I get bored. Gearboxes and gears specifically. ( learning to Design those was an Experience on it's own...)
Try Ludrick and ask what resin he can get. Number is on the site:Hey all,
Any suggestions where I can buy some 3D resin in clear/transparent red?
Tried most of the usual stores, but no luck so far. A 0.5L would be fine.
Many thanks, will tryTry Ludrick and ask what resin he can get. Number is on the site:
https://caldeaz.co.za/contact-us/

Think it would depend on the strength of your tint? That's basically what you would be doing.Someone suggested using clear resin and adding red 3D colour or pigment, would that work? Or would it go cloudy/unclear?
If I look at the ratio of 3D magenta pigment to clear resin, it should be 100g resin to 0.82g of pigment to get a good red transparent colour. Never used pigments with resin before. Only used gray resin for prints to date.Think it would depend on the strength of your tint? That's basically what you would be doing.
Food colouring?