They haven't had resin printer in stock for about 4 months now, been checking on and off now since about May.I don't have money for this, but a google give quick results:
Anycubic 3D Printers, Upgrades & Spares - DIYElectronics
3D Printers, Spares and Upgrade Kits from Anycubic, manufacturers of the famous Kossel Delta and i3 Mega series of 3D Printers.www.diyelectronics.co.za
Both are trusted companies in the 3D printing online shop world.
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3d Printers South Africa
- Thread starter Kwd1989
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RedViking
Nord of the South
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Importing 3D Printers just got very expense after the shipping and tax. Can't they let you know when they expect stock again?
Thanks for this bud.1. Ender3 or Ender 3 Pro
Creality Ender 3 Pro 3D Printer | Creality’s New Pro Series
The Creality Ender 3 Pro features a full complement of exciting upgrades and improvements, but without compromising on quality or affordability.
2. filament: https://www.diyelectronics.co.za/store/pla/1711-cctree-pla-filament-175mm.html
3. Also a PC with a slicer.
Best and most awesome free Slicer:
Download Cura
That is all you need to get started.
Then:
Optional control over printer from PC with usb printer cable and to send commands:
Pronterface
3D Models to print:
Thingiverse - Digital Designs for Physical Objects
Thingiverse is a universe of things. Download our files and build them with your lasercutter, 3D printer, or CNC.www.thingiverse.com
Fusion360 if you want to create you own models.
Lots of cursing in the beginning and asking why your prints are not sticling to the built place where we will ask you if you have check your temperatures, retractions, nozzel height and bed leveling.
At this point should have gone through the Troubleshoot guide as well as watched a couple of youtube videos.
Enjoy!
Yeah I saw the Ender 3 originally but then also saw the CR-10 (S and Pro) and the prices seems to go up quite quick.
I read the ender 3 bed has issues or is that the older model?
Really keen on this and the price looks great to get started. Anything else I may need or need to know etc?
Thanks again for the reply, really helped out a lot.
RedViking
Nord of the South
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All 3D printers have an issue. The user.
Hahaha this I have read extensivelyAll 3D printers have an issue. The user.
Ok seems I'm gonna go for the one you linked to and then get filament etc.
Anything else I need?
RedViking
Nord of the South
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You are welcome to get more opinions. The CR-10 also have good support. But the Ender 3 has great support, online community support and videos. Spares are also easily available.Hahaha this I have read extensively
Ok seems I'm gonna go for the one you linked to and then get filament etc.
Anything else I need?
You will later might want to upgrade some parts on the printer, change the E3D V6 hotend or clone , add auto leveling etc.
You might also want to do some research on what it will take to change the firmware on the printer to the latest Marlin, if you choose to do so. Don't think it has a bootloader. Some printers come pre-configured so you can upload any firmware. (I saw one on PiShop) or you can ask the shop you buy from if they can do it before they ship it (probably at a small extra fee)?
You can also ask PiShop, DIY, 3D Printing store some of these questions.
But personally I would get the printer and filament and just start playing with it, get to know how to use it. Cry. Scream. Go back to to printing. I won't waist money on all the extras, or you need this upgrade and need that blah blah blah until you know what you are doing and what you need.
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Yeah I see there are alot of upgrades / mods that can be done but like you said might just mess with the standard version for a while and get use to it before I start looking into that.
The CR-10 looks good too but it is almost double the price of the Ender 3 and all videos and reviews I have watched they say the Ender 3 is great starter printer so I am sold on that one.
howardb
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Morning all.
My first printer from a few years ago was one of these i3's with the acrylic frame; I haven't used it for a while, but dusted it off over the weekend to try a few exotic filaments. The acrylic frame, although still intact, is starting to show signs of becoming brittle and bowing, so am wondering if anyone has done a complete conversion to 2020/2040 T-slot or V-slot frame? If so, which resource did you use for the conversion?
I've seen a huge number of different setups/layouts/etc, which to be honest have become quite confusing - they all start looking the same after a while! The Prusa site has a lot of printable parts, so I'm sorted with those if required - it's more the frame setup/layout.
Basically, I want to be able to use ALL the current mechanical/electronic components, without spending a fortune on replacing the stock parts. Any ideas/sources are welcome.
My first printer from a few years ago was one of these i3's with the acrylic frame; I haven't used it for a while, but dusted it off over the weekend to try a few exotic filaments. The acrylic frame, although still intact, is starting to show signs of becoming brittle and bowing, so am wondering if anyone has done a complete conversion to 2020/2040 T-slot or V-slot frame? If so, which resource did you use for the conversion?
I've seen a huge number of different setups/layouts/etc, which to be honest have become quite confusing - they all start looking the same after a while! The Prusa site has a lot of printable parts, so I'm sorted with those if required - it's more the frame setup/layout.
Basically, I want to be able to use ALL the current mechanical/electronic components, without spending a fortune on replacing the stock parts. Any ideas/sources are welcome.
howardb
Expert Member
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Where are you based?
If you could give a few more details on object size, material to be printed in and colour (PLA, ABS, etc), hi-res/low-res, etc - this would assist with a costing
I am between Jhb CBD and Sunninghill although I do travel to Durban a few times.Where are you based?
If you could give a few more details on object size, material to be printed in and colour (PLA, ABS, etc), hi-res/low-res, etc - this would assist with a costing
In terms of object size, i would imagine it to be the size of a normal ring box(5cm x 5cm x 4cm(height)) estimated.
In terms of materials, I have no idea. In terms of color, I would like an off-white colour but I am not too fussed.
I would like to add names to the cover if possible.
Picture uploaded
Hi Dee96
3 questions:
1. Is the engraving part of the idea (iow the "wash" look on the front)? You mentioned names - would these be unique per box?
2. Do you have the stl files for the box, or would it involve being designed for you? We can do this, I just need to know up front.
3. How many of these would you need at a time?
1) I would like it to be part of the design.
2) I do not have the STL
3) I only need one box.... I plan to use it to propose so hopefully, I only need one
saor
Honorary Master
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So you need someone to design (CAD), print and finish (sanding, painting etc.) the box for you.
Correct
Dee96
So I had some time on my hands last night and between myself and my son we mocked up a box in PLA which took just over 3 hours to print.
Installed a hinge pin and there she is.
Let me know what you think....
Attachments
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Thank you so much for this.
This looks perfect. now i need someone to paint this for me to include our names and to make it more "bookish"
I really appreciate this
howardb
Expert Member
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Just some advice needed:
My Creality CR-10S-4 mainboard started having problems with the end-stops failing after 18 months of use; tried new stop switches, but the issue remained; decided to replace the mainboard - sourced a replacement v2.1 and fitted it - the printer works again as normal, however I notice that the display reflects the CR-10S (300x300 bed). I found that when auto leveling it only sees the 300x300 bed size, not the 400x400, so the level check points are not at the 4 corners and center of the 400x400 bed, but rather at the 4 corners of a 300x300 bed (points are a quarter short for the bed size).
Found the CR-10S4 source code firmware on Creality's site - is it a simple case of connecting a PC to the control box via USB and flashing the S4 firmware per their flashing guide?
My Creality CR-10S-4 mainboard started having problems with the end-stops failing after 18 months of use; tried new stop switches, but the issue remained; decided to replace the mainboard - sourced a replacement v2.1 and fitted it - the printer works again as normal, however I notice that the display reflects the CR-10S (300x300 bed). I found that when auto leveling it only sees the 300x300 bed size, not the 400x400, so the level check points are not at the 4 corners and center of the 400x400 bed, but rather at the 4 corners of a 300x300 bed (points are a quarter short for the bed size).
Found the CR-10S4 source code firmware on Creality's site - is it a simple case of connecting a PC to the control box via USB and flashing the S4 firmware per their flashing guide?