3d Printers South Africa

[howardb]

I tightened and loosened everything where necessary, and put the original spring's back... Seems to be levelling a bit better.

Now I'm dealing with qualify issues.

I'll have to check the retraction settings, bit of a pain because I'll only know long into a print if its a problem

That also looks like some over-extrusion; maybe calibrate the e-steps on the extruder.
Is your cooling fan working correctly after the maintenance?

 

[howardb]

Also thought so - retrying at 190 - weird thing is - before I started picking up issues, it printed fine at 200.

Think my better half (the house dragon) - is ready to kill me - been in the office for two days

This is how it goes with 3D printing... Will print perfectly, turn off for a bit, and boom - everything is different for no apparent reason.

I would also suggest printing a temp tower for that filament roll, just to check.

 

[xrapidx]

Its gotten a lot better after rechecking everything, still doing some funny things though - going to try the e-step calibration now.

This was at 190

 

[xrapidx]

This is how it goes with 3D printing... Will print perfectly, turn off for a bit, and boom - everything is different for no apparent reason.

I would also suggest printing a temp tower for that filament roll, just to check.

The temp tower kept getting knocked over, even with glue I rebuilt the printer last night, goes surprisingly quick once you've done it twice.

Everything seems a 100% square.... I realised I need more "specialised" tools - like a smaller ruler, and smaller square.

I also learnt that the screen cleaner I was using to clean the bed was a bad idea, it has an anti fogger in which probably caused all my adhesion issues. (the temp tower is for the first time printing with nothing but a clean bed to see how it goes).

I've also downloaded V-slot covers for the printer, and edited them to include .5cm measurements, should help with seeing if the x-gantry goes off balance.

EDIT: temp tower finished - not knocked over, and no adhesive, that's a first

 

[howardb]

The temp tower kept getting knocked over, even with glue I rebuilt the printer last night, goes surprisingly quick once you've done it twice.

Everything seems a 100% square.... I realised I need more "specialised" tools - like a smaller ruler, and smaller square.

I also learnt that the screen cleaner I was using to clean the bed was a bad idea, it has an anti fogger in which probably caused all my adhesion issues. (the temp tower is for the first time printing with nothing but a clean bed to see how it goes).

I've also downloaded V-slot covers for the printer, and edited them to include .5cm measurements, should help with seeing if the x-gantry goes off balance.

Great.
Which bed do you have. I use 99% IPA to clean mine, once a week was with warm water and sunlight, then IPA again once dried.

 

[xrapidx]

Great.
Which bed do you have. I use 99% IPA to clean mine, once a week was with warm water and sunlight, then IPA again once dried.

The glass bed that came with the printer, I haven't been able to find IPA - apparently sold out in various places because of Covid. Thought the screen cleaner was a good idea because it was 70% alcohol.

 

[ijacobs3]

The glass bed that came with the printer, I haven't been able to find IPA - apparently sold out in various places because of Covid. Thought the screen cleaner was a good idea because it was 70% alcohol.

IPA 99.7% (Isopropyl Alcohol), 5 Litre

IPA 99.7% (Isopropyl Alcohol), 5 Litre. Isopropyl Alcohol (IPA) is 99.7% alcohol and is used for cleaning of printing surfaces and resin prints and other general items.

www.3dprintingstore.co.za

 

[howardb]

The glass bed that came with the printer, I haven't been able to find IPA - apparently sold out in various places because of Covid. Thought the screen cleaner was a good idea because it was 70% alcohol.

My local Dischem had a small 100ml and 250ml bottles on the shelf; maybe try your local pharmacy

 

[xrapidx]

My local Dischem had a small 100ml and 250ml bottles on the shelf; maybe try your local pharmacy

I've tried all the pharmacies (incl Dischem and Clicks) around me - I'm sure I'll find some eventually.

IPA 99.7% (Isopropyl Alcohol), 5 Litre

IPA 99.7% (Isopropyl Alcohol), 5 Litre. Isopropyl Alcohol (IPA) is 99.7% alcohol and is used for cleaning of printing surfaces and resin prints and other general items.

www.3dprintingstore.co.za

Thanks, I might order online if I need to order something else.

 

[saor]

I've tried all the pharmacies (incl Dischem and Clicks) around me - I'm sure I'll find some eventually.


Thanks, I might order online if I need to order something else.

Some pharmacies ask at the dispensary. Sometimes keep bigger bottles there.

 

[xrapidx]

How many prints do you guys can right after starting? I seem to go through quite a bit where something isn't right.

I think bed levelling and I are not going to be the best of friends, 80% of my prints fail if I don't use glue. (the more bed space they take up - the more likely to fail)

 

[howardb]

How many prints do you guys can right after starting? I seem to go through quite a bit where something isn't right.

I think bed levelling and I are not going to be the best of friends, 80% of my prints fail if I don't use glue. (the more bed space they take up - the more likely to fail)

Levelling the bed is key. If you get that right, then 95% of the problems are solved. I adjust mine on the fly on the first skirt or brim layer; a slow layer at 20-25mms so I can adjust each bed corner if needed.

Also, for PLA (and others I suppose, but I mainly use PLA), irrespective of your layer height, make the first layer 0.28 so it assists with adhesion on a warped or bad bed - I don't have or use a BL touch. Bed set at 65C for the first 2 layers. I also often use a brim of at least 15mm around the object outer wall, particularly on taller/larger surface prints - on the 2nd or 3rd layer, use some blue painters tape overlapping the brim outer part with the bed; assists in case it starts lifting at any point

Part cooling fan off for the first 3-4 layers, bed lowered to 62C on layer 3 onwards, then part cooling fan up to 25% for a few layers, then 50% for the remaining print. Always depending on the part being printed of course (larger or smaller). I rarely go above 75% on the part cooling fan, but Cura is also set to auto for those smaller details where the layer time is short, ramps it to 100% fan as needed.

Also ensure there is no draft across the bed or in the room. Will knacker most prints nearly every time... I used some scrap polystyrene board to make sides and top for my printer, keeps any draft across the bed to a minimum. Use another poly board over the front during winter months, to keep the bed at 62-65C throughout the print. Summer is not too bad and the front board is rare needed.
Will post a pic when I can so you have an idea.

EDIT:
Rarely have to re-level the bed, except when changing the nozzle or replacing the PEI bed surface.

 

[B-1]

I've tried all the pharmacies (incl Dischem and Clicks) around me - I'm sure I'll find some eventually.


Thanks, I might order online if I need to order something else.

Use glue stick on glass. I just wash my glass bed once in a while with hot water and then apply a thin layer of glue stick. With new prints I just touch up the glue until it needs a wash.

If you are having issues with prints being knocked over measure the thickness of the filament in a few places. If its even slightly thicker than your settings it will build up to a significant amount over a few hundred/thousand layers.

 

[xrapidx]

Levelling the bed is key. If you get that right, then 95% of the problems are solved. I adjust mine on the fly on the first skirt or brim layer; a slow layer at 20-25mms so I can adjust each bed corner if needed.

Also, for PLA (and others I suppose, but I mainly use PLA), irrespective of your layer height, make the first layer 0.28 so it assists with adhesion on a warped or bad bed - I don't have or use a BL touch. Bed set at 65C for the first 2 layers. I also often use a brim of at least 15mm around the object outer wall, particularly on taller/larger surface prints - on the 2nd or 3rd layer, use some blue painters tape overlapping the brim outer part with the bed; assists in case it starts lifting at any point

Part cooling fan off for the first 3-4 layers, bed lowered to 62C on layer 3 onwards, then part cooling fan up to 25% for a few layers, then 50% for the remaining print. Always depending on the part being printed of course (larger or smaller). I rarely go above 75% on the part cooling fan, but Cura is also set to auto for those smaller details where the layer time is short, ramps it to 100% fan as needed.

Also ensure there is no draft across the bed or in the room. Will knacker most prints nearly every time... I used some scrap polystyrene board to make sides and top for my printer, keeps any draft across the bed to a minimum. Use another poly board over the front during winter months, to keep the bed at 62-65C throughout the print. Summer is not too bad and the front board is rare needed.
Will post a pic when I can so you have an idea.

EDIT:
Rarely have to re-level the bed, except when changing the nozzle or replacing the PEI bed surface.

Thanks for the detailed response, I think most of my issues are the glass bed, three things, 1. getting it 100% clean (I'll hopefully solve that soon) 2. the bed not being 100% flat (I can see the nozzle dipping and lifting as I move it) 3.) leveling -which I think I'm finally getting the hang of - I was doing it manually, and almost every single time I went round the level had changed (see 2.) , I'm now using CHEP's levelling gcode, and its going 100x better.

Drafts fortunately aren't a major issue, the printer is in a corner in the office, it only becomes an issue when someone opens the door fast - but - hopefully at the end of the week my Ikea tables will be on the way and I can to work on an enclosure.

Use glue stick on glass. I just wash my glass bed once in a while with hot water and then apply a thin layer of glue stick. With new prints I just touch up the glue until it needs a wash.

If you are having issues with prints being knocked over measure the thickness of the filament in a few places. If its even slightly thicker than your settings it will build up to a significant amount over a few hundred/thousand layers.

Currently using pritt - but hate the residue that builds up on the prints, so I find myself cleaning the bed every print.

Fortunately, it looks like the rebuild of the printer solved my knocking over problems....at least I'll find out tomorrow when I print a high print again.

 

[xrapidx]

Everything blue has been printed without issue since last night.... Hopefully over my issues.

Amazing the amount of crap that's managed to get into all the grooves.

 

[xrapidx]

8 hours of printing last night, was wondering what I'd wake up to.

He's to stand on top of the printer, which my wife has called Odin.

Do any local guys sell a cleanup kit for 3d prnting (files, scalpels, etc)?


..

 

[Binary_Bark]

8 hours of printing last night, was wondering what I'd wake up to.

He's to stand on top of the printer, which my wife has called Odin.

Do any local guys sell a cleanup kit for 3d prnting (files, scalpels, etc)?


..

You could try a Hobby shop where they sell model planes, cars, etc. They would have the things you require

 

[j4ck455]

Do any local guys sell a cleanup kit for 3d prnting (files, scalpels, etc)?

Takealot

www.takealot.com

 

[Gnome]

Anyone with an Ender 3 V2 have any issues with a weird knocking noise every now and then + layer shift (seems like my printer is either hitting an end or not enough motor current, not sure really).

I'm changing out to a SKR 1.4 Turbo to see if running with TMC2209 will solve my issues but wow it is annoying.

 

[OMGChase]

Hello. Spoiled myself this Christmas with a 3d printer as I've had an interest in them when they were just starting to come out with the reprap. Been loving it so far. The tech blows my mind. Recently I've run in to an issue where the weather has been so humid that my PLA is unusable as it has soaked up too much water and snaps when barely bending it.

I'm wanting to build a dry box but was wondering where you all got your dessicant? I found something at builders called Moisture Absorber and was wondering if anyone use this stuff?

Air Scents Moisture Absorber - Natural (500ml)

Buy Air Scents Moisture Absorber - Natural (500ml) Online or Locate Your Nearest Builders Warehouse Store. ✓ Secure shopping ✓ 100% Contactless ✓ Reliable Delivery ✓ Many ways to pay!

www.builders.co.za

Thanks!