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- Thread starter Kwd1989
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Gnome
Executive Member
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- Sep 19, 2005
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Not using BLTouch?Attempting to edit CHEPs gcode for bed levelling - to go to five points 3x, faster.... here's hoping I don't end up breaking something
xrapidx
Honorary Master
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- Feb 16, 2007
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Not yet - couldn't find stock... also want to try and get the hang of levelling before adding something new.
Also - used hairspray, one layer - and the print I was struggling with yesterday is staying stuck
Gnome
Executive Member
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They are surprisingly more effort to install than you would think. Took a long time to calibrate and get repeatable results. The key to success is really, really tight bed springs and make sure you gantry isn't loose and hanging to a side slightly.
Ender 3 v2? Haven't had that issue at all. If anything I really, really struggle to get my prints off the glass at the end of a print. I bought some razor blades which I sort of wedge underneath the print to pry it off. You sure your first layer squash is good?
xrapidx
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Installed the yellow springs, but want to look at getting the silicone spacers.... I find I still need to level my bed each time I remove the glass.
In some parts I struggle to get the prints off - in others I can blow them off (and it can be right next to the one I struggle with) - I think the bed itself might not be 100% level.
With the amount of different levels I've tried levelling the bed - I'm sure one of them was right
So, my Wanhao D6 printer is working nicely again, but I still have the same problem over and over again with this printer.
I've put on a new nozzle and ptfe tubing. The reason is it will print perfectly now, and probably tomorrow too etc.
Then i wont have anything to print and will leave it for 3-4 weeks or more. When I try to print again, extrusion is terrible, the plastic comes out and sticks to the nozzle - and it turns out to be blocked. Cleaning it doesn't help either as its just a solid mess, so I have to replace the nozzle and ptfe again.
I've read that one should not have to remove the PLA from the printer after each print, but it just seems when it sits there it becomes a complete mess-up inside. Is there a time for how long PLA should be left in the machine? Especially when you then try to start it up and print again?
I've put on a new nozzle and ptfe tubing. The reason is it will print perfectly now, and probably tomorrow too etc.
Then i wont have anything to print and will leave it for 3-4 weeks or more. When I try to print again, extrusion is terrible, the plastic comes out and sticks to the nozzle - and it turns out to be blocked. Cleaning it doesn't help either as its just a solid mess, so I have to replace the nozzle and ptfe again.
I've read that one should not have to remove the PLA from the printer after each print, but it just seems when it sits there it becomes a complete mess-up inside. Is there a time for how long PLA should be left in the machine? Especially when you then try to start it up and print again?
Just got some of these and it's incredible how quickly they decrease humidty. Put one in a container and went from the ambient humidty of 80% down to 30% in the span of a few minutes. Bought another one just to put in my room to try reduce the ambient humidty and the amount of water it has collected is nuts. Thanks for the tip!
saor
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Why mirror and not regular glass?
xrapidx
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I believe mirror's are more likely to be flat, maybe be wrong... but I remember reading something like that waay back
Gnome
Executive Member
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Glass/Mirrors are very hard. So 1mm isn't really going to make much difference as long as it can lie on a surface fully supported. Since glass is so hard, it'll break with any appreciable deflection, which includes thermal shock. So ideally try not to rapidly cool it down or press on it unsupported, thicker glass seems to be able to handle the thermal shock better in my experience.
ITO "flatness", I assume you mean the polish which could well be better on glass used for mirrors. But both mirrors and normal glass is about as straight as you are gonna get without spending a fortune. Again due to the hardness, and kind of imperfection very quickly manifests itself as cracking
ITO "flatness", I assume you mean the polish which could well be better on glass used for mirrors. But both mirrors and normal glass is about as straight as you are gonna get without spending a fortune. Again due to the hardness, and kind of imperfection very quickly manifests itself as cracking
All the creality groups I've browsed recommend going for a mirror instead of glass. If a mirror is not flat you will notice it immediately by seeing a distorted reflection.
xrapidx
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Got notification today that my ikea tables have been shipped. Hopefully next week I can start planning the setup.
Ah...thats exactly what I remember reading....
The most popular ones recommended were from IKEA LOL
xrapidx
Honorary Master
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Thats what I ordered... IKEA Lack tables... Just regretting going with black, most are black.
I was referring to the the mirrors
howardb
Expert Member
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- Sep 12, 2003
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- 3,647
Hi everyone,
Bit of a strange problem I've encountered recently on my CR10-S4 - I changed to direct drive a number of months ago and continued printing as normal after doing the necessary e-step calibrations, levelling etc. Seemingly no issues.
Last week I printed an STL file I had printed before (a custom shelf bracket for my scale model cars), but see now that the second print instance of the same STL results in the X dimensions having "shrunk". I did not use the same .gcode file as before, but loaded the same STL into Cura and sliced again based on my current printer settings.
Let me explain more:
The calibration cube I printed, after noticing the incorrect X dimensions, measures exactly 20x20x20mm as it's supposed to, so I assume my e-steps on the X/Y/Z are correct. I re-did the e-step process just to validate the current settings, all good and same correct result.
The extrusion is also good and calibrated - not seemingly connected to this issue though.
As you can see in the below photo, the bracket part by the ruler is showing 195mm, where it should be 200mm per the modelled STL - the rest of the dimensions in all measured areas are exactly as they are modelled in Sketchup though. The part was printed lengthways along the X-axis - this leads me to believe that something is happening on the X-axis/movement that's causing the "shrinking" - it doesn't seem to happen on the Y/Z at all.
So if the calibration cube is fine, the why are the other prints shrinking on the X?
Any ideas on what could cause this suddenly - it's not Cura settings, as everything was scaled at 100%.
I can't think there is a printer menu setting, as the e-steps are correct and Y/Z are 100% accurate.
Could it be something physical on the printer? Bad X belt, or belt binding, etc... I'm honestly stumped.
Bit of a strange problem I've encountered recently on my CR10-S4 - I changed to direct drive a number of months ago and continued printing as normal after doing the necessary e-step calibrations, levelling etc. Seemingly no issues.
Last week I printed an STL file I had printed before (a custom shelf bracket for my scale model cars), but see now that the second print instance of the same STL results in the X dimensions having "shrunk". I did not use the same .gcode file as before, but loaded the same STL into Cura and sliced again based on my current printer settings.
Let me explain more:
The calibration cube I printed, after noticing the incorrect X dimensions, measures exactly 20x20x20mm as it's supposed to, so I assume my e-steps on the X/Y/Z are correct. I re-did the e-step process just to validate the current settings, all good and same correct result.
The extrusion is also good and calibrated - not seemingly connected to this issue though.
As you can see in the below photo, the bracket part by the ruler is showing 195mm, where it should be 200mm per the modelled STL - the rest of the dimensions in all measured areas are exactly as they are modelled in Sketchup though. The part was printed lengthways along the X-axis - this leads me to believe that something is happening on the X-axis/movement that's causing the "shrinking" - it doesn't seem to happen on the Y/Z at all.
So if the calibration cube is fine, the why are the other prints shrinking on the X?
Any ideas on what could cause this suddenly - it's not Cura settings, as everything was scaled at 100%.
I can't think there is a printer menu setting, as the e-steps are correct and Y/Z are 100% accurate.
Could it be something physical on the printer? Bad X belt, or belt binding, etc... I'm honestly stumped.
Gnome
Executive Member
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- Sep 19, 2005
- Messages
- 7,208
If it were a physical property like a belt, etc. you'd see layer shifting. Physical problems are very rarely so precise and you print quality seems unaffected. Your errors seems to be 2.5%, so your XYZ cube would be 0.5mm short, but you say it is perfectly spot on?
So IMO it is software related.
What mainboard and firmware are you using? (Marlin?)
100% sure about your slicer profile? (probably not but double/triple check yourself)
100% sure you didn't accidentally print a previous file? (ditto as above)
I'm really confused why direct drive would impact your XYZ axis at all?
Did you try to calibrate your XYZ after the direct drive or only extruder e-steps?
So IMO it is software related.
What mainboard and firmware are you using? (Marlin?)
100% sure about your slicer profile? (probably not but double/triple check yourself)
100% sure you didn't accidentally print a previous file? (ditto as above)
I'm really confused why direct drive would impact your XYZ axis at all?
Did you try to calibrate your XYZ after the direct drive or only extruder e-steps?
Last edited:
Pic of the bracket installed please?Hi everyone,
Bit of a strange problem I've encountered recently on my CR10-S4 - I changed to direct drive a number of months ago and continued printing as normal after doing the necessary e-step calibrations, levelling etc. Seemingly no issues.
Last week I printed an STL file I had printed before (a custom shelf bracket for my scale model cars), but see now that the second print instance of the same STL results in the X dimensions having "shrunk". I did not use the same .gcode file as before, but loaded the same STL into Cura and sliced again based on my current printer settings.
Let me explain more:
The calibration cube I printed, after noticing the incorrect X dimensions, measures exactly 20x20x20mm as it's supposed to, so I assume my e-steps on the X/Y/Z are correct. I re-did the e-step process just to validate the current settings, all good and same correct result.
The extrusion is also good and calibrated - not seemingly connected to this issue though.
As you can see in the below photo, the bracket part by the ruler is showing 195mm, where it should be 200mm per the modelled STL - the rest of the dimensions in all measured areas are exactly as they are modelled in Sketchup though. The part was printed lengthways along the X-axis - this leads me to believe that something is happening on the X-axis/movement that's causing the "shrinking" - it doesn't seem to happen on the Y/Z at all.
So if the calibration cube is fine, the why are the other prints shrinking on the X?
Any ideas on what could cause this suddenly - it's not Cura settings, as everything was scaled at 100%.
I can't think there is a printer menu setting, as the e-steps are correct and Y/Z are 100% accurate.
Could it be something physical on the printer? Bad X belt, or belt binding, etc... I'm honestly stumped.