3d Printers South Africa

[saor]

Started printing a spool today in anticipation of the Funkiments arrival - didn't realise it was going to take about 24 hours

Sounds like a job for a 0.8 nozzle.

 

[eye_suc]

Started printing a spool today in anticipation of the Funkiments arrival - didn't realise it was going to take about 24 hours

Already started? You can greatly decrease print time by upping your line width in Cura. 0.6 instead of default 0.4. Also use 0.28 line height
I also crank my CR10s Pro to about 70mm/s which helps a bit.

 

[xrapidx]

Sounds like a job for a 0.8 nozzle.

Good point, I need to experiment with larger nozzles.

Been wanting to order a florescent pink filament and glow in the dark from Da Vinci - but been out of stock for awhile. (and then nozzles)

 

[xrapidx]

Already started? You can greatly decrease print time by upping your line width in Cura. 0.6 instead of default 0.4. Also use 0.28 line height
I also crank my CR10s Pro to about 70mm/s which helps a bit.

That halfed the print time - it was on 8% - cancelled and started again.

 

[eye_suc]

That halfed the print time - it was on 8% - cancelled and started again.

Success!

 

[valiente]

Anyone in Centurion/Pretoria with a large SLA/Resin printer??

I need a couple of small items printed: 50x50x5mm

 

[bar1]

ended up getting the BIQU BXfrom 3d store, reviews are good!
planning to connect my old raspberry pi 3 for OctoPrint

​

 

[karnuffel]

this is the true meaning of stress!

 

[Rocket-Boy]

this is the true meaning of stress!

Did the print finish at that point?
That is damn close if that was the case.

 

[karnuffel]

Did the print finish at that point?
That is damn close if that was the case.

Lol no it didnt. It stopped a minute or so later on 88%I had a small piece of yellow that I replaced it with just to get it done. Came out quite nice

 

[eye_suc]

this is the true meaning of stress!

You left the plastic on your acrylic. And nice spool holder choice

Enjoying the Ender 6?

 

[karnuffel]

You left the plastic on your acrylic. And nice spool holder choice

Enjoying the Ender 6?

Loving it! I had one issue last week trying to print with a multi-color silky PLA+. My prints all pulled apart, even my temp tower, but Ill load that spool again to try and figure out what happened.

 

[eye_suc]

Loving it! I had one issue last week trying to print with a multi-color silky PLA+. My prints all pulled apart, even my temp tower, but Ill load that spool again to try and figure out what happened.

That is odd. Other spool of filament worked fine?

I've had stuff like that happen before, but that was because of a partial clog (under extrusion) or too low temps.

What tips do you have for other Ender 6 owners?

 

[B-1]

Busy building a vzbot. I have a corexy I designed and built about 7 years ago thats not keeping up to the new designs anymore and when I saw the vzbot I really liked the simple practical design.

 

[eye_suc]

Busy building a vzbot. I have a corexy I designed and built about 7 years ago thats not keeping up to the new designs anymore and when I saw the vzbot I really liked the simple practical design.

View attachment 1114290

Busy listening to the vid now.

For a TLDW, would you say this is on par with a RatRig or a Voron?

 

[karnuffel]

That is odd. Other spool of filament worked fine?

I've had stuff like that happen before, but that was because of a partial clog (under extrusion) or too low temps.

What tips do you have for other Ender 6 owners?

Its just with that one spool, others print 100%. I saw on some of the Facebook groups that there are quite a few people moaning about these, but Ill get it working.

Tips, take your glass surface off and clean it properly. I found that the profiles on IdeaMaker give the best results with no real tuning needed. Planning to move my extruder to the top and add Capricorn tubing soon

 

[B-1]

Busy listening to the vid now.

For a TLDW, would you say this is on par with a RatRig or a Voron?

Its built mainly for speed and reliability by the designer and kept simple so missing a few fancy bits that I never use anyways. I was going to build a voron for years now but never got around to it. The 2.4 voron is the good looking no compromise printer but it also comes at a big cost and complicated build. The ratrig is also very good so you wont have any regrets with any of them. Its more about picking the one that fits your needs.

 

[Werfetter]

Its built mainly for speed and reliability by the designer and kept simple so missing a few fancy bits that I never use anyways. I was going to build a voron for years now but never got around to it. The 2.4 voron is the good looking no compromise printer but it also comes at a big cost and complicated build. The ratrig is also very good so you wont have any regrets with any of them. Its more about picking the one that fits your needs.

I see the voron kits are all built for 3mm filament and even the BOMs on their site all include 3mm components. Is there a reason for 3mm over 1.75? I have only ever printed 1.75 so curious about what the difference is?

 

[Sashin]

Hey guys,
Anyone purchased from Hype Direct - hype.co.za?
Looking to buy a Creality Ender 3 V2 from them but not sure how legit they are.
Thanks

Just want to let you guys know that I took a chance and ordered from Hype direct. There were some initial delivery delays and my package was involved in the looting but they ended up sending me a replacement within the week.

Was great service considering the circumstances.

 

[B-1]

I see the voron kits are all built for 3mm filament and even the BOMs on their site all include 3mm components. Is there a reason for 3mm over 1.75? I have only ever printed 1.75 so curious about what the difference is?

Where do you see the 3mm parts in the BOM? The only things that I believe that you may see is the bowden tube on the direct drive extruder for feeding the filament into the extruder. They use a 3mm inner diameter and fittings because there is less friction when pulling the 1.75mm filament through it.
I would only use 3mm filament on printers that will run 0.6mm nozzles or bigger with a high flow hotend. We used to only get 3mm long ago but 1.75 is better for 90% of the time so unless you know why you need it dont go that route.