3d Printers South Africa

karnuffel

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Jul 5, 2010
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Folks, I'm keen into getting a Octoprint but I see DIYElec sells it but are out of stock, any other local suppliers? I suppose could build my own but like that it was a whole kit.
I did this for my ender 6. I used a Sony eyecam for the PS3 and a raspberry PI 3b. Installing Octopi is easy and getting everything setup is well documented.

The biggest issue I had was getting the camera to work, but in the end it was more of a PICNIC issue than anything else. The camera is not great but works great.
 

Jaws677

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Dec 3, 2009
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1,160
So I eventually found a local company that can supply 4mm Polycarbonate sheets (580 x 600) for my new Printer.
Reasonable price! R350


Then I asked them to CNC a couple holes and two small corner cut-outs.
Firstly the quote from Engineering took nearly 5 days.

Then the price was double that of the sheet, almost R700 for the CNC alone.
Image of the DXF in question below

So I am looking for someone to assist in Gauteng (Pretoria preferred) with a CNC large enough to drill these couple of holes..

View attachment 1142888
If you are not in a hurry I can cut that for you.
Just a bit busy for next week

Westrand
 

valiente

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Joined
Jun 16, 2012
Messages
534
Folks, I'm keen into getting a Octoprint but I see DIYElec sells it but are out of stock, any other local suppliers? I suppose could build my own but like that it was a whole kit.
Yeah no need to buy the Bundle, just self source.

Image loading onto an SD card is super simple with Balena Etcher
 

Kosmik

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Sep 21, 2007
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I read some folks in the thread complaining about the speed and print issues, recommended hardware version of pi?
 

valiente

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Joined
Jun 16, 2012
Messages
534
I read some folks in the thread complaining about the speed and print issues, recommended hardware version of pi?
If you simply want to remotely control your printer:
Pi Zero W

If you want to Remotely control and stream cameras:
Pi 3 B

If you want to go Balls to the Wall, Stream, Time lapses, AI Learning and run a few dozen extensions:
Pi 4 B
 

xrapidx

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Feb 16, 2007
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I read some folks in the thread complaining about the speed and print issues, recommended hardware version of pi?

Most of the issues are plugin related. I'm using a old Pi3 I repurposed with no issues for months now.

RE: Plugins - I've disabled two recently (WLED/PSU Control) - it seems as soon as Octoprint can't contact them over the network - **** hits the fan with printing.
 

xrapidx

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Feb 16, 2007
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Wont do this one again, multiple parts failed multiple parts, with varying degrees of supports. Not sure how its done without supports.

Came out VERY rough at 0.2mm.
b2c01ef90541b5b956dad02d586952a1.jpg
 

Thor

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Jun 5, 2014
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42,830
Should I get the creality

Ender 3 v2

Or

Ender 6

Or

CR-5 Pro H

I am leaning very heavily towards the CR-5 Pro H thinking being if I actually do end up liking 3D printing for all my IoT stuff then I'm going to wish I had a proper printer.
 

valiente

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Jun 16, 2012
Messages
534
Should I get the creality

Ender 3 v2

Or

Ender 6

Or

CR-5 Pro H

I am leaning very heavily towards the CR-5 Pro H thinking being if I actually do end up liking 3D printing for all my IoT stuff then I'm going to wish I had a proper printer.
For a beginner, I'd definitely recommend the Ender 3 v2.
  • Extremely well documented - Probably the most used Printer (Ender 3)
  • A billion add-ons and Improvements you can play around with
  • Super easy to troubleshoot
  • Can print very good quality if tuned correctly

Both the Ender 6 and CR-5 Pro are Core XY Printers.
The Creality implementation isn't great with the bed only supported on a single side
Over time and if printing something heavy, the bed could start sagging downwards since it is only supported from one side
There are fixes for this: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3397666

In theory, the Core XY printers can print a LOT faster, since you not moving the heavy bed in the X or Y direction.
But again, for a beginner, speed is the last thing you should be concerned about.


Also Price, all three these printers are in different Price Categories:
R5999 for Ender 3 V2
R9999 for Ender 6
Can't find local price on Ender-5 Pro H but probably R20 000
 

karnuffel

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Jul 5, 2010
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4,371
Should I get the creality

Ender 3 v2

Or

Ender 6

Or

CR-5 Pro H

I am leaning very heavily towards the CR-5 Pro H thinking being if I actually do end up liking 3D printing for all my IoT stuff then I'm going to wish I had a proper printer.
I absolutely love my ender 6. I think the Ender 3 is a great start because there is a massive amount of info and guides online
 

Kosmik

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Sep 21, 2007
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Gents, could someone give a quick explanation on nozzles? I see the ender 3 has out the box 0.4mm, and DIY has 0.3, 0.25 respectably at a various ranges for sale. My current understanding is that the nozzle could be deemed similar to the resolution aspect of a print? My question is, when and where to use and secondly, doesn't the smaller apertute impact the flow rate? Would that not need to be adjusted/set?

Also with the price range in nozzles from R20odd to R600, the main differance I see is coatings and durability, does this genuinely make such a huge differance? The jumps are from like R20 to R200 to R600?
 

howardb

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Sep 12, 2003
Messages
3,446
Gents, could someone give a quick explanation on nozzles? I see the ender 3 has out the box 0.4mm, and DIY has 0.3, 0.25 respectably at a various ranges for sale. My current understanding is that the nozzle could be deemed similar to the resolution aspect of a print? My question is, when and where to use and secondly, doesn't the smaller apertute impact the flow rate? Would that not need to be adjusted/set?

Also with the price range in nozzles from R20odd to R600, the main differance I see is coatings and durability, does this genuinely make such a huge differance? The jumps are from like R20 to R200 to R600?
Not really on the resolution thing imo. The layer height is more resolution related, with 0.1mm being finer than 0.2mm etc.

Smaller nozzle sizes theoretically allow smaller detailed prints to be done. I tried a 0.2mm nozzle as wanted to print some small detailed items, endless issues; clogging mostly using PLA. Went back to 0.4mm and tuned my printer and slicer settings properly, no issues. Not ideal for small items though.

And for small detailed items, rather go resin. Works much better.

Can't comment on the pricing. A big standard nozzle is fine, cheap to replace. Steel nozzles also have issues, depending on your printer calibration.
Dumped the Micro Swiss nozzles and back to cheap brass ones.
 

howardb

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Sep 12, 2003
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Wanted to add that if the nozzle size is changed, flow and e-steps may have to be recalibrated.

Tried a 0.8mm nozzle as well and had to do this (and bump up the nozzle temp during the print)
 

Kosmik

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Sep 21, 2007
Messages
21,977
Hmmm looking at the whole octoprint thing and I really like what this chap did

This timestamp =>

I note he didn't use a connected pi cam so my question to those folks who have octo, I assume can slap a cheap usb webcam on the side? Would it support a smart cam like a sonoff? ie: does it need to be a direct connection or can it be linked? What did you folks use if you went with this? The cable cam or an external?

Some really cool mod ideas and easy prints.
 

saor

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Joined
Feb 3, 2012
Messages
28,726
Gents, could someone give a quick explanation on nozzles? I see the ender 3 has out the box 0.4mm, and DIY has 0.3, 0.25 respectably at a various ranges for sale. My current understanding is that the nozzle could be deemed similar to the resolution aspect of a print? My question is, when and where to use and secondly, doesn't the smaller apertute impact the flow rate? Would that not need to be adjusted/set?

Also with the price range in nozzles from R20odd to R600, the main differance I see is coatings and durability, does this genuinely make such a huge differance? The jumps are from like R20 to R200 to R600?
Well I'm a lady but I'll answer anyway.

We have a printer that's permanently got a 0.25 nozzle on it running PLA. For smaller and especially thin-walled parts it's really nice, and one of the biggest advantages is that support structure breaks away like a dream. Even little cavities where a 0.4 would dump down some tricky to remove support, the 0.25 stuff just pops out. And layer height: Using a 0.4 nozzle at 0.1 or 0.08 layer height doesn't make a huge difference, the 0.25 at 0.06 or 0.08 layer height is noticeably different (better) to a 0.4 nozzle at 0.06 or 0.08. Never had issues printing PLA, gets quite tricky printing other materials. Suppose some of this might just be printer specific tho.

If you've got a need for more functional parts with finer details it's worth experimenting with, especially if you need the bit of flex/give that an FDM printed part gives.
 
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B-1

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Apr 17, 2020
Messages
3,081
Just some updates on my VzBot. Its been printing for a week and a bit. I used a pi zero with klipper but its barely keeping up and can't calibrate input shaping with the adxl345 so needs a proper pi. I ordered one from RS but they changed delivery date to december so I'm trying to cancel that one and ordered one from pishop. Then I still need to order all the panels for the enclosure/lid and a few other finishing items.


print.jpg

printt.jpg
 
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