RedViking

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Feb 23, 2012
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Hi,

I'm looking at buying a secondhand vehicle and might consider a Hyundai i20 1.6 2011 model, 100 000 km for 65K. I will only see the vehicle later this week, private buy, but would like to go prepared. (Kwazulu Natal).

1. Anyone with some advice on this vehicle and things I need to look out for, specially on this model and buying secondhand.

2. What are the general cost for spares on the vehicle if it needs replacement later on and maybe also the average service costs for a minor and major (105 000).

I appreciate your input, specially if you've been an owner of this model and can give some advise.

-RV
 
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TheChamp

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I've never owned this vehicle but i strongly approve, a good, solid normally aspirated engine with 91kW, try and think how many reasonably priced hatches you can buy today which gives you that amount of power, not many.

Spares are should not be an issue and they are priced like any other regular car, someone i know who owns an old Hyundai says they are readily available, plus you have those Korean spare shops, so a much bigger choice for spares.

As for buying second hand I mostly used that Transunion car value app where you can get a full verification of the car for a R100 I think, it was very useful to me in the past, it lists the full details of the car such as colour, engine no, vin and colour which you can verify against the details on the car, it also lists any repairs costs on the car but only those which were claimed through insurance, so the minute you see an expensive repair bill you can ask questions on that, other things included in the report is any stolen/recovered info.

Good luck, it looks like a good deal on paper.
 

RedViking

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Thanks for your input. On paper the deal does look very good. I will check out the app you suggested or look for something similar. Would be great to know the history of the vehicle.

I've never owned this vehicle but i strongly approve, a good, solid normally aspirated engine with 91kW, try and think how many reasonably priced hatches you can buy today which gives you that amount of power, not many.

Spares are should not be an issue and they are priced like any other regular car, someone i know who owns an old Hyundai says they are readily available, plus you have those Korean spare shops, so a much bigger choice for spares.

As for buying second hand I mostly used that Transunion car value app where you can get a full verification of the car for a R100 I think, it was very useful to me in the past, it lists the full details of the car such as colour, engine no, vin and colour which you can verify against the details on the car, it also lists any repairs costs on the car but only those which were claimed through insurance, so the minute you see an expensive repair bill you can ask questions on that, other things included in the report is any stolen/recovered info.

Good luck, it looks like a good deal on paper.
 

falcon786

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Check for over spray next to panels joints.... usually means the car was in a bad accident if it's got lots of that.
 

Gtx Gaming

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I own the 2010 model, no problems so far. It leave those vw's in the dust with the 91kw motor under the bonnet.

65k is way to cheap I think something might be wrong with it, or it was in accident.

I paid 95k for mine last year.
 

airborne

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I own the 2010 model, no problems so far. It leave those vw's in the dust with the 91kw motor under the bonnet.

65k is way to cheap I think something might be wrong with it, or it was in accident.

I paid 95k for mine last year.
Yes sounds like a gumtree con, so many of them, hallmark is always a crazy low price. It might be a deal but ask some questions that only someone who actually has that car with them can answer or ask for pics of specific things, that'll soon root out the conman.
 

HapticSimian

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Price is way, way, way too low. The worst examples on AutoTrader - from dealers you'd never want to buy from - are priced from R85k or so. Nice ones with decent mileage are upwards of R110k. Something is very wrong with that 'deal'.
 

RedViking

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It does sound very cheap. Reason why I would like to know what to check for. Otherwise it might just be a very good deal. I'll see and inspect the vehicle in person. It is those questions I need to ask that I'm looking for. =) I'll also check for a full service record, maybe it will have a contact number for the service Centre which I can also try phoning.

Yes sounds like a gumtree con, so many of them, hallmark is always a crazy low price. It might be a deal but ask some questions that only someone who actually has that car with them can answer or ask for pics of specific things, that'll soon root out the conman.
 

RedViking

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Mmmmm.... But worth checking out? It is a local guy selling. But I don't personally know him. I'll keep looking for other deals in this price range.
Price is way, way, way too low. The worst examples on AutoTrader - from dealers you'd never want to buy from - are priced from R85k or so. Nice ones with decent mileage are upwards of R110k. Something is very wrong with that 'deal'.
 

RedViking

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I reply from my phone. For some reason some quotes appear below my response.
 

HapticSimian

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Mmmmm.... But worth checking out? It is a local guy selling. But I don't personally know him. I'll keep looking for other deals in this price range.

Probably not worth checking out, no. I don't know the particulars, obviously, but with my decade and a bit in the trade I will say the little info you've given sets off enough alarm bells that I wouldn't even pick up the phone. The market self-regulates to a large degree; similar cars in similar condition will fetch similar prices. When you see a car advertised for almost a 3rd less than the lower end of its price bracket you should worry.
 

RedViking

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Thanks. It's so frustrating trying to find honest people or sometimes even dealerships, specially a vehicle in this price range. As I'm trying to buy another car I'm also selling my old car, it is old and has lots of issues, so I'm selling it as 'old with lots of issues and rust'. Who ever buys it will know what they get. Have a couple of buyers who is willing to buy and fix up. Now if only I can find someone who is honest to sell.
 

kili2

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I had a Hyundai i20 1.6 before I got into an accident. Haven't had a single issue with the car. Parts are not a problem. I used Joburg Korean spare'a OEM parts to service my car.
 

RedViking

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I had a Hyundai i20 1.6 before I got into an accident. Haven't had a single issue with the car. Parts are not a problem. I used Joburg Korean spare'a OEM parts to service my car.

It looks like a very nice car.
 

TheChamp

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Thanks. It's so frustrating trying to find honest people or sometimes even dealerships, specially a vehicle in this price range. As I'm trying to buy another car I'm also selling my old car, it is old and has lots of issues, so I'm selling it as 'old with lots of issues and rust'. Who ever buys it will know what they get. Have a couple of buyers who is willing to buy and fix up. Now if only I can find someone who is honest to sell.

I still insist you go and check the car out, observe safety precautions of course, but it's a private sale it's not odd that it's keenly priced, my colleague was selling a Tazz some time ago for R35k, 140km on the clock, check on autotrader you will see them with more mileage than that selling upwards of R59k, by sheer bad luck he could not get a buyer quick enough, as he did not have parking for the car he ended up settling for R34k from Webuycars, i could only imagine that they made a decent profit out of it.
 

HapticSimian

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Thanks. It's so frustrating trying to find honest people or sometimes even dealerships, specially a vehicle in this price range. As I'm trying to buy another car I'm also selling my old car, it is old and has lots of issues, so I'm selling it as 'old with lots of issues and rust'. Who ever buys it will know what they get. Have a couple of buyers who is willing to buy and fix up. Now if only I can find someone who is honest to sell.

It is unfortunately a mark of the times that it's exceedingly difficult to find anything near decent for much below R80k. If I were in your shoes, I would try to stretch my budget just a little bit further. You'll also need to accept that you're looking at the Alto/Picanto/Spark/i10 kind of ballpark. If you need something bigger you'll have to compromise on age and/or mileage.

That's not even touching on everything you'll need to look out for once you do find a suitable car at the right kind of price. People who aren't in the trade will overlook the most obvious signs of past repairs, but I can give you a few pointers. Even panel gaps and matching colours across panels are the obvious ones, but there's more: Check all rubber seals for any sign of body colour overspray on them. Check all exposed screws and bolts that attach any body panels, especially on door, bonnet and boot hinges. Panel-beaters can do the nicest job imaginable, but very few will bother to repaint screws and bolts once repaired panels have been reattached. Obvious tool marks are a dead giveaway. Look under the bonnet at the top fixings of the grille, headlights, radiator and such for both tool marks and misaligned screws, washers and spacers. On many cars you can see stickers with production dates on the headlights, which means you can cross-check the headlights' date of manufacture with the car's. If you have a 2008 car with headlights made in 2013 there was probably a prang in its history.

Feel the paint! Run your hand across panels and especially on the edges of doors, bonnet and boot. Factory paint jobs on modern cars are, for the most part, near flawless and smooth to the touch; any inconsistency - especially from one panel to the next - should raise questions. Another common giveaway would be the texture of the paint on door panels behind the handles; if the doors feel smooth to the touch but rough behind the handles, someone wasn't in the mood for a tricky sanding job. Keep in mind though that there's nothing inherently wrong with driving a properly repaired car - the aim would be to spot obvious botched repairs, and to rather walk away from something that looks like it's been through the wars.

That's a crash course of the most obvious telltale signs as far as the bodywork goes but buying a second-hand car is also fraught with mechanical pitfalls. Checking for a stamped service record is one thing, but that wouldn't preclude the car from having current mechanical issues. Check tyre tread all round. Check if you can see how much friction material the brake pads still have - anything above about 1/2 a centimetre or so should be alright. Pay attention to the travel of the clutch pedal. If it's not progressive from top to bottom, or feels unusually stiff, it's probably past its best. When test driving feel for any play on the steering that could betray worn front suspension components: if you keep the steering wheel still the car should maintain its current track, and anything more than a degree or two of turn before you can feel the car react would be cause for concern. Drive the car with both radio or ventilation switched off and listen carefully for any unusual knocking or grinding noises when cornering or traversing an uneven surface. Once you're satisfied with the drive, check that aforementioned radio and ventilation actually work. Air con repairs can be very costly...

That's about as much as my Sunday brain can muster. I can't overstate the value of having someone knowledgeable giving any prospective purchase a once-over though. Even if you only take any car you're considering past the nearest franchise dealer, most used car managers would be happy to give a car a quick glance for any glaring issues even if you're not likely to buy from them. Most of all, keep your expectations reasonable. Genuine bargains on the used car market are exceedingly rare, so if a car's price seems too good to be true it probably is.
 

WaxLyrical

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Good buy. Go for it. Take it for AA and ask for police clearance before you sign.
 
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