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Sign up with GoogleAMD Stock Heatsink Fan replacement?
- Thread starter MrE
- Start date
Ye, that's the one, ..and oh, it ooks like it says the fan is 80mm not 90mm.
Ya, your recommendation sounds wise, ..thanks..
This one:
Cooler Master UV Silent 22dB, blue (sleeve)
http://www.coolermaster.com/index.p...2&other_title=SUF-S82UV Silent Fan 80 x 80 mm
or would I be better off sticking with a black, vantec Stealth 80mm (2-ball bearing I think)..?
Ya, your recommendation sounds wise, ..thanks..
This one:
Cooler Master UV Silent 22dB, blue (sleeve)
http://www.coolermaster.com/index.p...2&other_title=SUF-S82UV Silent Fan 80 x 80 mm
or would I be better off sticking with a black, vantec Stealth 80mm (2-ball bearing I think)..?
Last edited:
Yeah, that would work fine. And it's got the three pin connector so you can plug it in the motherboard.
Like I said, just check your idle and load temps before and after you put in the new fan. If it stays the same or is better then you're happy. Otherwise one or two degrees more shouldn't matter much I think.
But I think with that fan you should be fine.
Like I said, just check your idle and load temps before and after you put in the new fan. If it stays the same or is better then you're happy. Otherwise one or two degrees more shouldn't matter much I think.
But I think with that fan you should be fine.
Cool, i'll get some arctic silver, ..and I've heard of lapping, but how do i actually do it? (and clean the old paste off?)
Ye, i'll see if I can find an adapter, and a silent-ish 90mm blue uv fan..
..if anyone knows of a good place in CT to buy this kind of stuff then give me a shout..pls..
(and clean the old paste off?)Ye, i'll see if I can find an adapter, and a silent-ish 90mm blue uv fan..
..if anyone knows of a good place in CT to buy this kind of stuff then give me a shout..pls..
MrE said:
Whatever you decide to do should be ok. But I can't stress this enough.
!!CHECK YOUR TEMPS!!
What lapping basically is, is smoothing the surface of the heatsink. This can make a huge difference in temps.
Have a look at the surface of your heatink after you've cleaned off all the thermal paste. If it's got scratches in the area that makes direct contact with the CPU you may have to give it a good lapping...... yeah, that kinda weird.
Anyway, lapping can be done with very very fine sandpaper but only if the scratches are relatively bad. What worked for me, if the heatsink has a copper core, is good old Brasso. Actually Brasso works very well even on heavy scratches but you'll need alot of elbow grease and patience. Lots and lots of patience.
Cool, ok, I just have to google a bit on how to smooth the aluminium of the AMD stock heatsink I suppose..
Then, I'll put a quiet fan and some Antec Silver on that baby
Oh by the way, will be finished by about wednesday next week:
Aspire X-QPack (black) (420W PSU - 80mm Blue LED) (120mm Antec TriCool - Blue LED)
AMD Athlon64 Venice 3200+ (going to try get to 2600MHz)
Corsair Value Select 2x 512mb (blue Vantec heatsinks)
Foxconn Winfast 6150K8MA-8KRS Mobo (Red)
WD 250GB Sata-2, 8mb HDD (red Sata cable)
Asus 7900gt (Zalman vf-900Cu)
Proline 19" LCD, 8ms, DVI, Slim Bezel (actually an AOC LM928)
Gigabyte Slimline KBD + MSE
Creative 350 2.1 spkrs
Mitsumi FDD + 7-in-1 Card reader combo (black)
Lite-On Super Allwrite DVD-RW (black)
Vantec Red rounded FDD + IDE cables
Vantec PSU and 120mm fan Dampeners
Antec Silver Thermal paste
Can't decide between a blue, red, green, clear or red/green/blue 80mm Antec TriCool for the heatsink..
Here's some useless info: I've never played Far Cry or Doom 3, or FEAR... etc.. the list goes on!
Then, I'll put a quiet fan and some Antec Silver on that baby
Oh by the way, will be finished by about wednesday next week:
Aspire X-QPack (black) (420W PSU - 80mm Blue LED) (120mm Antec TriCool - Blue LED)
AMD Athlon64 Venice 3200+ (going to try get to 2600MHz)
Corsair Value Select 2x 512mb (blue Vantec heatsinks)
Foxconn Winfast 6150K8MA-8KRS Mobo (Red)
WD 250GB Sata-2, 8mb HDD (red Sata cable)
Asus 7900gt (Zalman vf-900Cu)
Proline 19" LCD, 8ms, DVI, Slim Bezel (actually an AOC LM928)
Gigabyte Slimline KBD + MSE
Creative 350 2.1 spkrs
Mitsumi FDD + 7-in-1 Card reader combo (black)
Lite-On Super Allwrite DVD-RW (black)
Vantec Red rounded FDD + IDE cables
Vantec PSU and 120mm fan Dampeners
Antec Silver Thermal paste
Can't decide between a blue, red, green, clear or red/green/blue 80mm Antec TriCool for the heatsink..
Here's some useless info: I've never played Far Cry or Doom 3, or FEAR... etc.. the list goes on!
Last edited:
Excerpted from:
"How to Lap a Heatsink"
Maximus Nickus - 7/20/02
------------------------
Copper sands much much quicker than aluminium, so be careful and patient with aluminium! (Most lapping takes about an hour for a well done job).
Now for the process:
You will need some wet/dry sandpaper; if your heatsink is really bad, you'll need a sheet of 400 grit and one sheet of 600 grit. If it's not too bad, just a sheet of 600 grit.
Start by placing the sandpaper on a FLAT surface (a uneven surface is just defeating the object of the task - glass is often a good surface). Pour a mixture of water and a FEW DROPS of washing up liquid (stops it sticking) onto the paper.
Now grasping the heatsink, place the bottom (obviously!!!) onto the sandpaper and make circular motions about 10-15 cm in diameter (it will be difficult and the heatsink will stick at first, but as you progress, the bottom layer of the machining rubs off and it will glide over). Remember to press with reasonable force, every 100 or so strokes rotate the Heatsink 90 degrees to make sure of an even surface.
Also, every once in a while when the sandpaper looks very orange or silvery (the metal particles), flush the paper with more water + washing up liquid. Keep doing this until the bottom of the heatsink is smooth (test by running your thumbnail over the bottom and see if you can feel any obvious lumps). When its smooth you're done!!
A few notes + pointers:
If the heatsink is really uneven to begin with (as I said above), start with a lower grit (more coarse). After a good 15-20 minutes of lapping, check to see if all those horizontal lines on the bottom are gone - if they are, proceed to the 600 grit paper.
You may if you wish use a higher grit than 600 to finish with - some people even go to a 2000 grit (so fine it would only take the shine and not the paint off a Mercedes body work). However, it isn't necessary to have it so smooth - 600 grit will give a smooth enough surface and going to a higher grit may make it shinier, but you certainly won't get a performance gain (this has been debated many times).
After you have finished, you may wish to clean the heatsink's surface with some Isopropyl Alcohol. I prefer to use this as it evaporates, unlike polish, because you don't want a layer of anything depleting your heatsink's performance.
For copper use an anti-tarnish solution you can buy - Brass-O is a popular one. It's very good at getting dirt out and making the surface as smooth as possible.
After you're finished, apply some Arctic Silver 3 (this is the best Thermal compound) to the CPU's core as per instructions (HERE) and mount the heatsink. You may be wondering why you're adding a thermal compound if it's another layer?
Arctic Silver 3 fills any remaining micro-voids; if there aren't any, it moves out the way, so make sure you apply an even, thin coat on the CPU core, else it will be dripping down your core (Don't worry - it's not very dangerous (unlikely to get a short circuit) it's just messy!).
You're done!
Nick Cade-Westcombe aka Maximus Nickus
Senior Member, Overclockers.com Forum
"How to Lap a Heatsink"
Maximus Nickus - 7/20/02
------------------------
Copper sands much much quicker than aluminium, so be careful and patient with aluminium! (Most lapping takes about an hour for a well done job).
Now for the process:
You will need some wet/dry sandpaper; if your heatsink is really bad, you'll need a sheet of 400 grit and one sheet of 600 grit. If it's not too bad, just a sheet of 600 grit.
Start by placing the sandpaper on a FLAT surface (a uneven surface is just defeating the object of the task - glass is often a good surface). Pour a mixture of water and a FEW DROPS of washing up liquid (stops it sticking) onto the paper.
Now grasping the heatsink, place the bottom (obviously!!!) onto the sandpaper and make circular motions about 10-15 cm in diameter (it will be difficult and the heatsink will stick at first, but as you progress, the bottom layer of the machining rubs off and it will glide over). Remember to press with reasonable force, every 100 or so strokes rotate the Heatsink 90 degrees to make sure of an even surface.
Also, every once in a while when the sandpaper looks very orange or silvery (the metal particles), flush the paper with more water + washing up liquid. Keep doing this until the bottom of the heatsink is smooth (test by running your thumbnail over the bottom and see if you can feel any obvious lumps). When its smooth you're done!!
A few notes + pointers:
If the heatsink is really uneven to begin with (as I said above), start with a lower grit (more coarse). After a good 15-20 minutes of lapping, check to see if all those horizontal lines on the bottom are gone - if they are, proceed to the 600 grit paper.
You may if you wish use a higher grit than 600 to finish with - some people even go to a 2000 grit (so fine it would only take the shine and not the paint off a Mercedes body work). However, it isn't necessary to have it so smooth - 600 grit will give a smooth enough surface and going to a higher grit may make it shinier, but you certainly won't get a performance gain (this has been debated many times).
After you have finished, you may wish to clean the heatsink's surface with some Isopropyl Alcohol. I prefer to use this as it evaporates, unlike polish, because you don't want a layer of anything depleting your heatsink's performance.
For copper use an anti-tarnish solution you can buy - Brass-O is a popular one. It's very good at getting dirt out and making the surface as smooth as possible.
After you're finished, apply some Arctic Silver 3 (this is the best Thermal compound) to the CPU's core as per instructions (HERE) and mount the heatsink. You may be wondering why you're adding a thermal compound if it's another layer?
Arctic Silver 3 fills any remaining micro-voids; if there aren't any, it moves out the way, so make sure you apply an even, thin coat on the CPU core, else it will be dripping down your core (Don't worry - it's not very dangerous (unlikely to get a short circuit) it's just messy!).
You're done!
Nick Cade-Westcombe aka Maximus Nickus
Senior Member, Overclockers.com Forum