Experiences in Zimbabwe

Tassidar

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Hi all,

I've just returned from a three week holiday in Zimbabwe, and would like to share some thoughts with you on the state of the country.

I was based just outside Bulawayo, but travelled to Victoria Falls, which is incredibly impressive. From there I went to Hwange game reserve which boasts a fantastic collection of wildlife and birdlife. Wildlife included elephants, kudu, impala, crocodiles, hippos, while the birdlife was also exceptionally impressive (my girlfriend gave me a crash course on birdwatching while I was there). Lastly, I went hiking in the Chimanimani mountains, which where absolutely stunning. There is nothing like sleeping in a cave and swimming naked in a river completely away from all civilisation. A warning though, if you are not used to Zim's climate you may struggle (as I did) on the steeper slopes. During one hike I must have sweated at least 5 litres in a couple of hours. Ok, enough about me, here is what I can tell you about Zimbabwe.

The Economy
As you are all well aware, the economic situation in Zim is diabolical. Inflation remains at over 1000% despite the recent revaluation of the Z$ (where 1 new $ = 1000 old $).

The official exchange rate is $35 to R1. The black market rate is around Z$300 to R1 (or was on the 18th Dec when I exchanged).

Here are some of the prices of goods:
1 Litre of petrol =Z$5 000 (R16)
Cheapest Softdrink (500ml) Z$1 500 (R5)
Dumpie Castle Z$ 700 (R2.30) (Yes, it is that cheap, and Sorghum beer is cheaper)
Bread rolls = Z$180 (60c ea)
Meat = Around Z$ 12 000 per kilo depending (R40)
Potatoes = Around Z$ 800 per sack (R2.60) (Not sure of this)
Imported items are much more expensive eg. SA Shampoo around Z$ 10 000 (R33)

Now let me give you an idea of salaries:
The official minimum wage is Z$5 000, enough to buy you 1 litre of petrol
An approximate wage for basic domestics might be Z$ 25 000, enough to buy one beer per day.
A state teacher earns around Z$60 000, enough to buy 12 litres of petrol.
A fairly well paid teacher at a private school around Z$240 000

A slight calculation will tell you that most people cannot afford to live. How people survive is beyond me! The lowest paid people might just be able to afford staple foods, but no more than that.

While I have included the price of fuel, one must remember that fuel is largely unavailable. Most petrol stations I encountered where empty, and the ones that had fuel had long, long queues behind them (waits of up to 24 hours). In point of fact, the road were almost devoid of cars. Other commodities that were largely unavailable were meat (I really struggled to find any) and Coke (I saw one shop with stock).

Perhaps this anecdote will illustrate the situation. On our way up, our host called us and asked us if it was too late to buy her goods. Since we didn't have time to get to a supermarket we asked her to keep it simple. This is what she asked for:
* Flour
* Sugar
* Cooking oil (sunflower)
* Condensed milk
While cooking oil was available, she said it was just too expensive to buy (and she is relatively well paid).

Farming
Zimbabwe was once referred to as the grain basket of Africa. The rich, fertile soil ensures that crops grow prolifically. Zimbabwe is capable of producing vast quantities of maize, tobacco and sugar among other things. However, this is not the case at the moment. The area where I was based used to have many productive farms, not one remained. During my whole time there, I saw one working tractor (which surprised me!).

I was fortunate enough to chat to a dispossessed farmer, who had been based in Mashonaland (North Zimbabwe). His was a tobacco farm that was worth about US$800 000. His farm was taken from him with no recompensation, and as one can imagine, we was somewhat resentful. However, it was interesting chatting to him about the future of farming. For one thing, one of the problems Zimbabwe faces is the lack of foreign currency. Generally 30% of a farmer's foreign earnings will go straight into buying fertilizers and insecticides. The difficulty will be in raising enough foreign capital to restart intensive farming.

It is interesting to note that before the build up to the 2000 elections, there were 6000 commercial farmers. Now there are fewer than a hundred (probably fewer than 50).

To be continued...
 

Tassidar

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...continued

The People
The people of Zimbabwe are an interesting bunch. For one thing, I will say the race relations are much better there than they are here. I found the people, both black and white more than willing to help on all occasions.

Interestingly enough, we must have driven through at least 20 roadblocks while we were there. Without exception, the police there were friendly, and not interested in taking bribes. They seemed to be looking for meat, guns or signs of gold panning. If you weren't a suspect, they were quick to wave you through after a quick chat to see if you were having a good say in Zimbabwe.

The same good nature applied to all officials at campsites, game reserves etc... They were all willing to help, despite the fact that they were absolutely ripping you off. In fact the only official who was bad tempered was an official at the border post on the way out (more on that later).

An interesting observation is that the rural people seemed much happier than urban people. You could see them smiling to each other as they walked, while urban dwellers had a constant scowl on their faces. The less touched by civilisation, the happier the people were. Those that lived in areas where there never has been any farming seemed least touched by economic hardship. Why should they be? They have been self-sufficient for thousands of years, they can be self-sufficient for a bit longer. Moreover, they haven't had the desire for material goods implanted in their brains.

More interesting, is that mentality of the (mainly white) people that I had interactions with. It seems that Zimbabweans fall into two categories: Those with hope and those without. Those with hope are able to face all the difficulties with seemingly little stress (though don't be fooled, there is huge underlying stress), while those without hope go into rapid decay. To illustrate this, I heard of two people who had committed suicide, a couple of people who were alcoholics and saw others who seemed to have lost the will to live. The most clear illustration of that was a party I went to. The first thing I noticed was that no one at that party (with one exception) was the correct weight. People were either overweight or underweight. Everyone seemed to be smoking and most were very drunk. The underlying feeling I got though was more pertinent; Dance Macabre sprang to mind - it was as if no one there was actually alive - they were just illusions of life like ghastly specters. Perhaps it was my imagination, but I couldn't shake that image. It was as if they were going through the motions of partying it up, being happy superficially to disguise the decay that lurked below.

Another illustration in the decay of people was the lack of young (white) people in Zimbabwe. All the young people that can leave have left, leaving the very young (school age), elderly and those who for some or other reason cannot leave. I am being cynical here: there are still those who by choice live in Zimbabwe, and despite the hardships claim to have a great quality of life.

Decay
On the subject of decay, it was very saddening to see the level of decay in Zimbabwe. For example, fence posts might remain, with the wire long removed. Ladders would also exist going over these now imaginary fences.

Bulawayo was full of decay. Every building looked like it needed a painting. Shops were looking run-down. Shelves were empty, fridges not working
(those that were working were stocked full of beer). AIDS appeared to be rife, as could be witnessed from the number of fresh graves in a graveyard outside of Bulawayo.

It is one thing seeing a country untouched by civilization, it is quite another seeing a country sliding back from civilization.

To be continued...
 

martin

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Thanks for sharing, there was a time when I would visit Zimbabwe at least twice a year (both my parents are from there) but I haven't been there in 4 years now. The Forbidden valley in Chimanimani is probably one of the most awe inspiring places I have ever visited. Really miss the country a lot.
 

Leitmotif

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Sounds a bit scary, but at least it doesn't seem as if the people are living in fear for their lives.
 

Tassidar

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...continued

Killing the Goose that Lays the Golden Egg
This was a termed that was bandied around a great deal in conversations, and never have I seen a better illustration of this phenomenon. I have already talked about farm takeovers, now let me turn to another golden goose - tourism.

Tourists provide vital foreign currency to Zimbabwe, and in return, Zimbabwe wants to get as much out of them as it can. Every (government run) campsite I stayed at demanded foreign currency. Typically this was around R50 per person with the charge of R40 for brining your car in. Each night at Vic Falls therefore cost R140. This might not sound too bad, but remember, you didn't have the option of paying in Z$s. Now to put it in perspective, the typical charge in Z$s for locals would be around Z$2000 (R7), perhaps slightly more, but not much. In every instance foreign tourists seemed to have to pay 10 times the amount locals did.

To view the Vic Falls, with no other benefit. Just to stand close enough to the falls to see them cost R120 per person. Again, locals paid around Z$2000. It would be a good deal for locals if they could get the petrol to tour around their own country. This was the first real rip-off.

The next major rip-off was at the Great Zimbabwe ruins. To see the ruins carried a charge of R100 (In this case you could pay in Z$s provided you showed a receipt, in other words exchanged money at the official rate of Z$35 to R1). Now let me explain: the ruins had no explanatory plaques on them. No hand out explaining the ruins was given. You paid R100 just to see an old building. I'm sure I would be charged less to see the Sistine Chapel, a far more remarkable work. I left the ruins feeling exceptionally angry. Paying a fortune to see the Great Zimbabwe ruins seemed to me an metaphor for my whole stay in Zimbabwe. I was paying a large amount of rands to see a country in ruins. Admittedly this feeling did pass after a while, especially as we went on to Chimanimani.

One thing that was clear, was the the money that we paid was not going into maintaining facilities. For example the roads at Hwange game reserve were in a serious state of decay and full of pot-holes.

The third major rip-off was at the border post. One of the last things you do before leaving is pay a toll. As a foreigner, again you have to pay in ZAR or USD. The tariff was R60. However, a sign said change would only be issued in Z$s. By this stage, neither my girlfriend nor I had change less than R100, and were forced to K*k and betaal. Our change amounted to Z$1 200 (R4) as opposed to R40. Of course, there was nothing we could do with that Z$ anyway, as we were about to leave the country, and even if we would return at a later date, it would be worthless anyway.

As a tourist who really enjoyed his stay, this is the one thing that is going to keep me away from Zim. I am not going to pay money to allow a couple of people to live in luxury while the rest of the country starve. Incidentally, what apparently happens with our ZAR is that it gets given to politicians who then exchange that money at the black market rate (I can't confirm this though).

to be continued...
 

Tassidar

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Thanks for sharing, there was a time when I would visit Zimbabwe at least twice a year (both my parents are from there) but I haven't been there in 4 years now. The Forbidden valley in Chimanimani is probably one of the most awe inspiring places I have ever visited. Really miss the country a lot.

Chimaninani is an amazing place. Staying in Terry's cave was one of the highlights of my trip along with the climb up Binga peak. I can see why people love the country so much, and am sorry for all those who were forced to leave it. Let's hope things get better, and it becomes a worthwhile destination again.
 

Tassidar

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Sounds a bit scary, but at least it doesn't seem as if the people are living in fear for their lives.

While people don't fear violence, I think many will be living in fear for their lives from starvation. I hope I am wrong in this, but looking at the wages, I cannot see how people can afford to feed themselves.
 

Tassidar

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Mindless Stupidity and incompetence
One thing that is apparent about the government of Zimbabwe, is that it is incapable of rational or ordered thought. Nor is it capable of doing its job.

To illustrate this, let me tell you about one of the governments plans. As an additional source of revenue, the government decided to erected toll plazas on the national roads. So suddenly toll booths started appearing on the roads. However, half way through the construction process, it was discovered that by international law, the construction of a toll plaza is illegal, unless there is an alternative route. Having no alternative route, the government abandoned its scheme. What amazes me about this is two things: (1) Why did no one bother to do the research in the first place? (2) Why did the government abandon the toll plazas because of international law when it flaunts so many other laws? I find the second question more astounding.

Zimbabwe no longer prints money. The reserve bank can't afford to buy notes. So instead of money, what you have are bearer cheques (nicknamed burial cheques by the locals). To all intents and purposes, bearer cheques look and behave like money, except for the fact that they have an expiry date (my guess is that if you are holding it at the time of expiry, you lose that money). On the bearer cheque, it says "Pay the bearer on demand one hundred dollars on or before 31st December 2007". I can imagine demanding all day long, and still getting nowhere.

On the subject, Zimbabwe, as I understand is no longer issuing passports either. They are not printing the forms to issue passports, as the backlog is too long. Sorry for you if you want to leave the country: You are stuck!

Right now, it seems that the government's latest craze is to arrest gold panners. These are people who dig gold or find alluvial gold from sites where most mines wouldn't bother as the ore is too low grade. To date, 16 000 panners have been arrested. I would guess this is because the government wants the gold for itself. However, if I understand correctly, the government previously encouraged people to pan gold.

In Zimbabwe, it is impossible to live life without breaking the law. The number of senseless laws that have been enacted make it impossible not to. Most of the time, you may not know that you are breaking a law, while other times (like exchanging currency) you are left with very little choice. Sadly, I think this habit of lawlessness may remain after Mugabe, and make it hard for the next (hopefully good) government.

Conclusion
While my stay was an interesting one, I am sad to say I do not plan to go back there for quite a while. Not because I did not like the country, but because I couldn't stand the idea of my money being used to support a dictator who is starving his people.

For those who are interested in going, I would strongly recommend the experience. However, please note the following: Unless you have contacts in Zimbabwe with fuel, you are going to have to take your own. Believe me, you do not want to run out of fuel there, as you may find yourself stuck for weeks.

My hope for Zimbabwe, is that the people rise up, as they did against Louis XVI in France and the Tsar in Russia, and overthrow the government. I cannot believe that Mugabe or his cronies will hand over power, nor do I believe that anyone will be able to organise a revolution before the people are ready. Hopefully, when Mugabe finally is dispossessed, the citizens of Zimbabwe will accept nothing less that a functional democracy.
 

martin

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....

My hope for Zimbabwe, is that the people rise up, as they did against Louis XVI in France and the Tsar in Russia, and overthrow the government. I cannot believe that Mugabe or his cronies will hand over power, nor do I believe that anyone will be able to organise a revolution before the people are ready. Hopefully, when Mugabe finally is dispossessed, the citizens of Zimbabwe will accept nothing less that a functional democracy.

Although this is my hope as well I just can't imagine it happening. I really hope I'm proved wrong.

Thanks for taking the time to write this up Tassidar, it's been a great read.
 

LoneGunman

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great post. Thanks for sharing it with us. Its very useful to get a birds eye glimpse of both a neighbouring country - as well as - some might say - a possible future for SA as well.. (no I'm not trolling) Very interesting reading. I wish more forumites would post their experiences when travelling to other places..
 

Skeptik

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I feel sorry for the man in the street, but have decided to boycot all Zim products. Anything in Woolies or P&P marked Zim gets left on the shelf.
 

BandwidthAddict

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In Zimbabwe, it is impossible to live life without breaking the law. The number of senseless laws that have been enacted make it impossible not to. Most of the time, you may not know that you are breaking a law, while other times (like exchanging currency) you are left with very little choice. Sadly, I think this habit of lawlessness may remain after Mugabe, and make it hard for the next (hopefully good) government.

That is an old tyrant's trick. If everyone is breaking the law, it's easy to pick up people and get rid of them.

Peace.
 

NewsFlash

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Mindless Stupidity and incompetence
.

Very good post. Glad you had a safe and enlightened experience. Fishing for Tiger on the Kariba is my lifelong dream. :D

Any reason why the above quoted heading sounds so familiar or ring a bell based on some local experience.
 

Milano

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That is so so sad.

Imagine if the Zimbabwean people had a powerful neighbour that would stand up to the regime and actively fight for positive change.

Imagine...
 

vespax

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Thanks for the post Tassidar.

Appreciate the insight. Incredibly sad how the whole situation is going pear shaped fast.

Wish others would take the time to share what they know like this. It educates us all.

Thanks again.
 
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