Geyser still not working with new element and thermostat

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ODTech

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If i replaced my kwikot geyser element and thermostat and it's still not heating the water can i assume that the breaker on the board is faulty?
I'm getting a multi meter tomorrow, across which terminals should i measure on the thermostat to check if there's 220 volts?

We do only turn the geyser on once a day only so it will have some wear and tear.
The wiring is very old and no isolator switch in the attic that complicates things, it should be directly wired to the breaker on the board.
 
Hemi300c

Hemi300c

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Install a isolator switch and see if there is current there then you know which way the problem is.
PS make sure all the switches are down and reset before switching on again.
 
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Venomous

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OP,

which area are you in? In our area city power turns of geysers from 6pm-9pm. :mad:
So I refuse to turn it off.

Maybe see if the water has heated up now?
Also make sure the thermostat is set to a temp, and not zero.
 
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gfmalan

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The wiring of a geyser is easy, you have 2 wires comming in to the geyser and then you have 2 devices (element andthermostat)

Red wire should be connected to first terminal on thermostat, then there should be short piece of wire between thermostat and one of the elements terminals, lastly the black wire should be wired to the second terminal of element.
The earth wire should be connected to the metal part.

If you have a multimeter put it on 300 or higher V AC, keep the black/common probe on the earth, and the with the red probe test to see if you get 230v +\-.

The first place would to test would be the terminal were the red wire is connected, if you dont get voltage there, then make sure the breaker is on, still nothing, then open the DB cover, take multimeter on same setting, keep the black prope on earth somewhere (like the housing of the DB), and press with red probe on the screw under the breaker and see if you get voltage. In some cases the geyser would be a dualpole isolator/breaker, in that case measure the red wire pole, if you still get nothing when breaker is on (or off), then press probe above that breaker at corrosponding terminal, now you should get something!

If you dont, press with the red probe on any other red wire, till you get something, if you do, then like Venomous mentioned, the city may have the rippel relay switched on.

If there are power ontop of breaker/isolator but not under it, and you pressed it down and up again, then we can assume its time for a new one.

If the power does get to the geyser, then let us know, and ill put the steps to test thermostat and those 2 connections.
 
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ODTech

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gfmalan said:
The wiring of a geyser is easy, you have 2 wires comming in to the geyser and then you have 2 devices (element andthermostat)

Red wire should be connected to first terminal on thermostat, then there should be short piece of wire between thermostat and one of the elements terminals, lastly the black wire should be wired to the second terminal of element.
The earth wire should be connected to the metal part.

If you have a multimeter put it on 300 or higher V AC, keep the black/common probe on the earth, and the with the red probe test to see if you get 230v +\-.

The first place would to test would be the terminal were the red wire is connected, if you dont get voltage there, then make sure the breaker is on, still nothing, then open the DB cover, take multimeter on same setting, keep the black prope on earth somewhere (like the housing of the DB), and press with red probe on the screw under the breaker and see if you get voltage. In some cases the geyser would be a dualpole isolator/breaker, in that case measure the red wire pole, if you still get nothing when breaker is on (or off), then press probe above that breaker at corrosponding terminal, now you should get something!

If you dont, press with the red probe on any other red wire, till you get something, if you do, then like Venomous mentioned, the city may have the rippel relay switched on.

If there are power ontop of breaker/isolator but not under it, and you pressed it down and up again, then we can assume its time for a new one.

If the power does get to the geyser, then let us know, and ill put the steps to test thermostat and those 2 connections.
Click to expand...

Thanks much for the info, i will try this later today when i get my hands on a multimeter. The kwitkot geyser thermostat is designed so they socket into the element so no wires between the two. I only have the earth going to the body of the geyser and neutral/live on the back of the thermostat.
 
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gfmalan

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ODTech said:
Thanks much for the info, i will try this later today when i get my hands on a multimeter. The kwitkot geyser thermostat is designed so they socket into the element so no wires between the two. I only have the earth going to the body of the geyser and neutral/live on the back of the thermostat.
Click to expand...

Please add a photo here of the thermostat/element combo, and also note you can use a normal globe with 2 wires or a bed lamp, to achive same result as multimeter.
 
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ODTech

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28105.jpg
rear_face.gif

gfmalan said:
Please add a photo here of the thermostat/element combo, and also note you can use a normal globe with 2 wires or a bed lamp, to achive same result as multimeter.
Click to expand...

Noted. I need to get a new multimeter anyway, i had a decent one that i used to test continuity with in my work but i seem to have misplaced it.
 
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ODTech

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gfmalan said:
Please add a photo here of the thermostat/element combo, and also note you can use a normal globe with 2 wires or a bed lamp, to achive same result as multimeter.
Click to expand...

Thanks much for the help, it's working now.

I measured 220 volt at the thermostat then i just slightly turned the temperature dial (it was set to 35) on a gut feeling and heard a soft click which is what i assumed is the thermostat turning the element on. The light on the meter is flashing significantly faster now so it seems all good.
 
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ODTech

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thehuman said:
turn thermostat to 55
Click to expand...

That's where i got it to when i heard the click. Water is luke warm so all is good.

The old element wasn't 2 months old and doing a continuity test it looks ok but one of the contacts burned off, no sign of wetness or water stains. If the clip wasn't so small i could have fixed it i guess. Atleast the kwikot spares are cheap.
 
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thehuman

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ODTech said:
That's where i got it to when i heard the click. Water is luke warm so all is good.

The old element wasn't 2 months old and doing a continuity test it looks ok but one of the contacts burned off, no sign of wetness or water stains. If the clip wasn't so small i could have fixed it i guess. Atleast the kwikot spares are cheap.
Click to expand...
to prevent legionnaires desease put it to 55 .
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Legionnaires'_disease
 
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ODTech

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thehuman said:
to prevent legionnaires desease put it to 55 .
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Legionnaires'_disease
Click to expand...

Yep i left it at 55 but will go double check, i meant water is luke warm and heating up at the time of my last post.

Thanks for the tip though, didn't know about the bacteria. The tank is pretty filthy and i am intending to clean it out over the coming weekend and to install a water filter on the cold water line.
 
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ODTech

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snoopdoggydog said:
Does the old element look like it's had it's days?
Click to expand...

Not realy, like i said it was changed hardly 3 months ago but then this is the first time i'm changing a element so not sure what a worn out one looks like. It has some sediment at the base of the element but for the rest it looks ok, pretty much like the new one.
 
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gfmalan

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ODTech said:
I will have to open mine and see if its worn out.

I bought a timer today. Do i just pass the red wire below the breaker through it?
Click to expand...

Correct, the red must be switched by the timer, the timer would need power aswell, you can add a 1amp breaker to power the timer itself.

On a diffrent note, I did the test by swithing geyser on and off once a day (1hour at 4:30) and let it switch itself (with thermostat). I did it alternating weekly between the modes over 60 days, I have a tester that log to my pc, and for houshold of 2 adults, there were no change in KWH. Pointless for me.
 
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ODTech

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gfmalan said:
Correct, the red must be switched by the timer, the timer would need power aswell, you can add a 1amp breaker to power the timer itself.

On a diffrent note, I did the test by swithing geyser on and off once a day (1hour at 4:30) and let it switch itself (with thermostat). I did it alternating weekly between the modes over 60 days, I have a tester that log to my pc, and for houshold of 2 adults, there were no change in KWH. Pointless for me.
Click to expand...

I'm alone and just use hot water for bathing in the morning which is probably 20 minutes in the summer and 1 hour in very cold winters. For dishes i boil a kettle. For a full household i can imagine you won't have much savings

Just 1 spot left on the db. I might have contact a electrician to do the timer installation properly.
 
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