help me upgrade my car audio

joker08

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Finally have some budget to upgrade.
I am changing the head unit and speakers only this time.


Only upgrading the front speakers for now with, Speakers that @gamer16 suggested.
https://www.autostyle.co.za/pr...s-6-280w-split-speaker-system/

Will the speakers work with the system without an amplifier? The website of the head unit says "built in amplifier, mofset 4*50w"

My question is apart from spacers and the cable do I need anything else?
 

joker08

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Ok I just re-read the previous posts and it will work but for more power I will eventually have to get an amp.
 

joker08

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But for that headunit to fit will I need some extra spares ? I have an etios with stock radio ATM
 

gamer16

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Finally have some budget to upgrade.
I am changing the head unit and speakers only this time.


Only upgrading the front speakers for now with, Speakers that @gamer16 suggested.
https://www.autostyle.co.za/pr...s-6-280w-split-speaker-system/

Will the speakers work with the system without an amplifier? The website of the head unit says "built in amplifier, mofset 4*50w"

My question is apart from spacers and the cable do I need anything else?

Yes they will, you can run them from the headunit pretty decently, but as soon as you can get an amp as it makes a world of difference.

You don't need anything else now no.
 

joker08

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Yes they will, you can run them from the headunit pretty decently, but as soon as you can get an amp as it makes a world of difference.

You don't need anything else now no.
Thanks
Yes. Will be going for an amp, rear speakers and a sub next month.
 
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joker08

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Just went to an installer. He is doing everything for 3200, including the cabling and bracket for the HU.
Now he dint mention what cables he is going to use also he is insisting that I dont need spacers because he can use the existing speaker spacer.
Should I go for it or should insist on a spacer.
I should mention, I went to "world of rad" and the guy was quiet old and looked like he knew what was he talking about.
 

gamer16

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Just went to an installer. He is doing everything for 3200, including the cabling and bracket for the HU.
Now he dint mention what cables he is going to use also he is insisting that I dont need spacers because he can use the existing speaker spacer.
Should I go for it or should insist on a spacer.
I should mention, I went to "world of rad" and the guy was quiet old and looked like he knew what was he talking about.

If it works without spacers go for it, only reason you generally need them is because the factory spacing is inadequate
 

joker08

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If it works without spacers go for it, only reason you generally need them is because the factory spacing is inadequate
that installer just used a pair of pliers and ripped off the old speakers and installed the new ones. what a waste.
 

joker08

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Got the HU and new speakers. So as @gamer16 suggested, not happy with the current setup.
Now to move to the next step, rear speakers, amp and subs. This is what I was suggested:-
cabling
sub with amp
rear speakers
Please suggest if you think I can change something for better audio.
Apart from this as there is no speaker space in the rear door I will have to install it in the boot. So will need to get that shelf thingy made.
what do u people think?
 

WesleyDB

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Got the HU and new speakers. So as @gamer16 suggested, not happy with the current setup.
Now to move to the next step, rear speakers, amp and subs. This is what I was suggested:-
cabling
sub with amp
rear speakers
Please suggest if you think I can change something for better audio.
Apart from this as there is no speaker space in the rear door I will have to install it in the boot. So will need to get that shelf thingy made.
what do u people think?

If you changing out the stock parcel shelf , make sure you get one made of plywood. Most places will try and sell you the chipboard ones which work and sound fine for a while, but then they start to sag and just look like crap.
 

gamer16

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Please don't buy 6x9s' unless you drive a taxi or are from brakpan. Its much much better to keep the door speakers only and do your setup correctly, try to get a dedicated amp and a dedicated sub it will just sound heaps better. Remember you don't need an enormous box, the low profile one's that are narrow and wide should do you good.

You need to get your speakers on an amp, even though the HU has 45 watts it doesn't drive the speaker properly, even the smallest dedicated amp will make the world of difference in what you hear, never mind more power available.
 

joker08

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Please don't buy 6x9s' unless you drive a taxi or are from brakpan. Its much much better to keep the door speakers only and do your setup correctly, try to get a dedicated amp and a dedicated sub it will just sound heaps better. Remember you don't need an enormous box, the low profile one's that are narrow and wide should do you good.

You need to get your speakers on an amp, even though the HU has 45 watts it doesn't drive the speaker properly, even the smallest dedicated amp will make the world of difference in what you hear, never mind more power available.
The back doors in my etios has no speaker slots. I dont have a choice but to install those 6*9
 

gamer16

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The back doors in my etios has no speaker slots. I dont have a choice but to install those 6*9

My Corsa doesn't have back doors, I have 2 mids in the doors and a sub in the back.

I made sure I have the best enclosure for the sub and I split the frequency neatly between the amps so the mids and sub compliment each other, sounds good and full range to me. I just had to build a nice enclosure behind my mids to get them to do a bit better.
 

K213N

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Just to add, I would highly recommend adding some sound deadening to your front doors. Something like this kit will do nicely. It makes a world of difference and it fixes the tinny, “echoey” sound you tend to get when you upgrade door speakers. You should also look at applying the sheets in the boot, especially if you’re installing a sub, helps avoid that dreaded rattle/buzz from the tailgate. If you’re spending a chunk of change on some nice components, you may as well get the most out of them.

NB: you may be able to get it cheaper elsewhere, I just linked to Takealot to show you what I’m talking about.
 

gamer16

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Just to add, I would highly recommend adding some sound deadening to your front doors. Something like this kit will do nicely. It makes a world of difference and it fixes the tinny, “echoey” sound you tend to get when you upgrade door speakers. You should also look at applying the sheets in the boot, especially if you’re installing a sub, helps avoid that dreaded rattle/buzz from the tailgate. If you’re spending a chunk of change on some nice components, you may as well get the most out of them.

NB: you may be able to get it cheaper elsewhere, I just linked to Takealot to show you what I’m talking about.

This as well yes. Especially in the doors as they seldom have any from factory.
 

joker08

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my dilemma is what speakers to get and what amp to get. As I already mentioned I am disappointed with the current front two speakers because they are sounding terrible without the Amp.
Now plan is -
1. get rear speakers
2. get a sub woofer that fits under the seat
3. get an amp.
Now, if I am going for a 4 channel amp with a Line out like this one I think I can use the line out to connect my subwoofer(which will have an amp-sub with amp ) it will also need a power source.
But if I get a amp with no Line out, how is the sub connected ?
Someone told me that if you are buying an amp with only two channels, u can connect the front speakers direct to the head Unit. Use the amp to connect to the rear speakers and the sub. I dont want the front speakers to be connected without the amp. Also I am getting a sub with an amp.
How will the connections work if I am getting a amp with 4 channels and I have a sub with amp ? where will the sub connect ?
 

TheChamp

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my dilemma is what speakers to get and what amp to get. As I already mentioned I am disappointed with the current front two speakers because they are sounding terrible without the Amp.
Now plan is -
1. get rear speakers
2. get a sub woofer that fits under the seat
3. get an amp.
Now, if I am going for a 4 channel amp with a Line out like this one I think I can use the line out to connect my subwoofer(which will have an amp-sub with amp ) it will also need a power source.
But if I get a amp with no Line out, how is the sub connected ?
Someone told me that if you are buying an amp with only two channels, u can connect the front speakers direct to the head Unit. Use the amp to connect to the rear speakers and the sub. I dont want the front speakers to be connected without the amp. Also I am getting a sub with an amp.
How will the connections work if I am getting a amp with 4 channels and I have a sub with amp ? where will the sub connect ?
I think the head unit has a sub output, just connect it directly to the headunit.
 

joker08

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I think the head unit has a sub output, just connect it directly to the headunit.
Looking at the installation guide of the head unit. It has 4 RCA outputs, 2 for front speakers and 2 for Sub OR rear output.
 

K213N

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Looking at the installation guide of the head unit. It has 4 RCA outputs, 2 for front speakers and 2 for Sub OR rear output.
Maybe try your system with just the 2 front speakers and the sub? So a 2ch amp instead of a 4. 2 upgraded front speakers being driven by an amp plus a dedicated sub can sound plenty good. And not placing fancy speakers on the backboard is a plus in terms of security.
 

joker08

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Maybe try your system with just the 2 front speakers and the sub? So a 2ch amp instead of a 4. 2 upgraded front speakers being driven by an amp plus a dedicated sub can sound plenty good. And not placing fancy speakers on the backboard is a plus in terms of security.
Sounds like a plan but I want backboard speakers. the boot glass (boot-wind sheild ? don't know the right term) is tinted plus I am getting a backboard where the speakers will be hidden under the cloth.
 
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