Home Assistant : Q&A, Tips & Tricks, Your Configs

[n00bster]

Anybody using dimmers in HA? What is recommended? I was planning to get the Sonoff dimmer but it is out of stock everywhere and one website said it is discontinued in SA die to loadshedding ( loss of power causes issues apparently). Next option is the Shelly dimmer, but it is over R600. Any other options?

Also, I was looking at the POW R3 with a 25A rating for the geyser, but it seems to also use the spring loaded clips for the wires that the R2 uses. Don't know why they don't just use screw terminals.

I have seen a few people say the Sonoff dimmers are not good. Get the Shelly one.

 

[gbyleveldt]

Anybody using dimmers in HA? What is recommended? I was planning to get the Sonoff dimmer but it is out of stock everywhere and one website said it is discontinued in SA die to loadshedding ( loss of power causes issues apparently). Next option is the Shelly dimmer, but it is over R600. Any other options?

Also, I was looking at the POW R3 with a 25A rating for the geyser, but it seems to also use the spring loaded clips for the wires that the R2 uses. Don't know why they don't just use screw terminals.

I have one that's Tasmotised. Can't say I had any issues with it but I only used it for a few months. I changed the tungsten patio downlighters it controlled to RGBW ones so now it's laying on a shelf somewhere unused. If you anywhere near the Benoni area you welcome to come grab it

 

[TedLasso]

62GB! Hectic.

Well, that is one of the reasons why I only backup my config files on github. See https://github.com/tinuva/home-assistant-config

In fact, I now added a step, that it actually tests my config against future updates.

Sadly only I can see the logs of the actions, eg at https://github.com/tinuva/home-assistant-config

But what is inside is the following.

1. config tested against stable:

Run version="stable"
ghcr.io/home-assistant/home-assistant:stable
Run matcher="/home/runner/work/_actions/frenck/action-home-assistant/v1.3/matcher.json"
Run docker run --rm \
2022.4.7
Testing configuration at /github/workspace/.
INFO:homeassistant.util.package:Attempting install of msmart==0.2.2

2. config tested against beta:

Run version="beta"
ghcr.io/home-assistant/home-assistant:beta
Run matcher="/home/runner/work/_actions/frenck/action-home-assistant/v1.3/matcher.json"
Run docker run --rm \
2022.5.0b3
Testing configuration at /github/workspace/.
INFO:homeassistant.util.package:Attempting install of msmart==0.2.2

3. config tested against dev:

Run version="dev"
ghcr.io/home-assistant/home-assistant:dev
Run matcher="/home/runner/work/_actions/frenck/action-home-assistant/v1.3/matcher.json"
Run docker run --rm \
2022.6.0.dev20220430
Testing configuration at /github/workspace/.
INFO:homeassistant.util.package:Attempting install of msmart==0.2.2

Obviously not fool proof, but it gives me a headsup. The only thing I lose, is the history on metrics, but then again give it a week and those are all back.

I also have my influxdb running on a separate vm so that is handled separately.

Sadly, I am not as smart as you, so the ISP / OneDrive takes the hit .haha

But, it means I can boot off second PC in minutes if main PC dies

 

[tRoN]

I’m testing out HOOBS as I use HomeKit integrations with my HA but some integrations like Ring camera don’t play well.

It seems that for someone who doesn’t want to bother with coding that HOOBS is a good option.

Anyone else with their experience?

 

[alqassam]

Anybody using dimmers in HA? What is recommended? I was planning to get the Sonoff dimmer but it is out of stock everywhere and one website said it is discontinued in SA die to loadshedding ( loss of power causes issues apparently). Next option is the Shelly dimmer, but it is over R600. Any other options?

Also, I was looking at the POW R3 with a 25A rating for the geyser, but it seems to also use the spring loaded clips for the wires that the R2 uses. Don't know why they don't just use screw terminals.

I just installed a shelly dimmer and it's pretty good. The control is smooth and nice.

Haven't had load shedding so will hold thumbs.

 

[AfricanTech]

Anybody using dimmers in HA? What is recommended? I was planning to get the Sonoff dimmer but it is out of stock everywhere and one website said it is discontinued in SA die to loadshedding ( loss of power causes issues apparently). Next option is the Shelly dimmer, but it is over R600. Any other options?

Also, I was looking at the POW R3 with a 25A rating for the geyser, but it seems to also use the spring loaded clips for the wires that the R2 uses. Don't know why they don't just use screw terminals.

I use the shelly dimmer.

Touch wood, working well for more than a year now.

 

[AfricanTech]

I just installed a shelly dimmer and it's pretty good. The control is smooth and nice.

Haven't had load shedding so will hold thumbs.

For LS purposes I set the default to 'off when powered on'.

 

[alqassam]

I'm pretty much migrating all the sonoff stuff to shellies.

The integration and ease of setup makes it easy. I just have a purchased another 5 shelly 2.5s

 

[Mzezman]

I'm pretty much migrating all the sonoff stuff to shellies.

The integration and ease of setup makes it easy. I just have a purchased another 5 shelly 2.5s

I'm in a similar thought process but either to Aqara or Tuya ... I will be running everything via HomeAssistant. The Sonoffs (bulbs and contact sensors) have just been a bit unreliable (dropping off the network etc)

 

[furpile]

I have one that's Tasmotised. Can't say I had any issues with it but I only used it for a few months. I changed the tungsten patio downlighters it controlled to RGBW ones so now it's laying on a shelf somewhere unused. If you anywhere near the Benoni area you welcome to come grab it

Thanks, in Richards bay so a bit far. Thanks for all the other replies, will go the Shelly route then.

 

[MidnightZA]

Thanks, in Richards bay so a bit far. Thanks for all the other replies, will go the Shelly route then.

Another Bay resident and HA enthusiast

 

[gbyleveldt]

The Sonoffs (bulbs and contact sensors) have just been a bit unreliable (dropping off the network etc)

Weird. All my light switches are Sonoff; even both gate motors and Garage door are Sonoff SV. I have literally never had any drop off the network. Granted I've Tasmotised them so they not running stock Sonoff firmware. Point is, the hardware is good; I have maybe 30 Sonoff bits of hardware on my network if I had to guess.

 

[n00bster]

I'm pretty much migrating all the sonoff stuff to shellies.

The integration and ease of setup makes it easy. I just have a purchased another 5 shelly 2.5s

Let me know if you want to get rid of old stuff

 

[MattRoy]

Weird. All my light switches are Sonoff; even both gate motors and Garage door are Sonoff SV. I have literally never had any drop off the network. Granted I've Tasmotised them so they not running stock Sonoff firmware. Point is, the hardware is good; I have maybe 30 Sonoff bits of hardware on my network if I had to guess.

I have had a similar experience with my my Sonoff devices (SV, POW R2, S55, Basic R2 and R3), but all of them are using ESPHome.

 

[neoprema]

A heads-up to anyone having problems with Shelly, Wi-Fi bulbs etc.

I spent weeks trying to figure out why Homekit was so unreliable. Siri could only turn something on and off maybe 4/10 times. Homepods kept saying they had trouble performing and action, Automation tasks did not work half the time, and it was just a general nightmare.

The problem was two-fold:

1. My ASUS mesh system
2. Shelly (and probably the bulbs) config regarding Wi-Fi.

Turns out, the ASUS mesh was set to disconnect a device if it "thinks" it can send it to a strong base station or a closer one.
Shelly's were set to disconnect from an AP and re-broadcast if their signal was -70db or worse.

See what was happening? All my units spent their time hunting for AP's and being disconnected from AP's over and over and over between the ASUS trying to optimize them, and Shelly disconnecting if it was -70db or worse.

I started by using the ASUS configuration to "bind" devices to their closest mesh point. Meaning that the ASUS will not allow it to connect to another node other than the one I told it to (and i picked the nodes closest to each device).

Then, I changed my Shelly's to allow up to -86dbs before disconnecting.

Voila! Its now Week 2 and not a single device has failed to respond to a command, all the switches work 10/10 times when given commands, and all my automations work 100% reliably. Homepods are 100% reliable.

Such a simple thing caused so much pain. I imagine similar may happen to others with other mesh node technologies so be on the lookout for that if your system appears to be very unstable.

 

[AfricanTech]

A heads-up to anyone having problems with Shelly, Wi-Fi bulbs etc.

I spent weeks trying to figure out why Homekit was so unreliable. Siri could only turn something on and off maybe 4/10 times. Homepods kept saying they had trouble performing and action, Automation tasks did not work half the time, and it was just a general nightmare.

The problem was two-fold:

1. My ASUS mesh system
2. Shelly (and probably the bulbs) config regarding Wi-Fi.

Turns out, the ASUS mesh was set to disconnect a device if it "thinks" it can send it to a strong base station or a closer one.
Shelly's were set to disconnect from an AP and re-broadcast if their signal was -70db or worse.

See what was happening? All my units spent their time hunting for AP's and being disconnected from AP's over and over and over between the ASUS trying to optimize them, and Shelly disconnecting if it was -70db or worse.

I started by using the ASUS configuration to "bind" devices to their closest mesh point. Meaning that the ASUS will not allow it to connect to another node other than the one I told it to (and i picked the nodes closest to each device).

Then, I changed my Shelly's to allow up to -86dbs before disconnecting.

Voila! Its now Week 2 and not a single device has failed to respond to a command, all the switches work 10/10 times when given commands, and all my automations work 100% reliably. Homepods are 100% reliable.

Such a simple thing caused so much pain. I imagine similar may happen to others with other mesh node technologies so be on the lookout for that if your system appears to be very unstable.

Although I didn't get that with normal use (I have Ubiquiti APs) I used to experience similar after loadshedding.

Fortunately I've also been able to bind specifc devices to specific APs thus eliminating the issue as well.

 

[furpile]

Is it possible to add a Shelly dimmer to lights that are connected to 2way switches? There are downlights in the passage with a switch at each end, can I just add a dimmer or will I need to remove one of the switches?

Edit: I suppose as long as the switches stay on the dimmer won't know the difference? As long as nobody switches it off at the wall?

 

[Tinuva]

Is it possible to add a Shelly dimmer to lights that are connected to 2way switches? There are downlights in the passage with a switch at each end, can I just add a dimmer or will I need to remove one of the switches?

Edit: I suppose as long as the switches stay on the dimmer won't know the difference? As long as nobody switches it off at the wall?

I don't see why not, but you can only configure them as a on/off for the dimmer. Dimming will only be available through app control. Unless you have a push switch at both sides they can then control dimming each too, but I would then change the wiring a bit

 

[alqassam]

Is it possible to add a Shelly dimmer to lights that are connected to 2way switches? There are downlights in the passage with a switch at each end, can I just add a dimmer or will I need to remove one of the switches?

Edit: I suppose as long as the switches stay on the dimmer won't know the difference? As long as nobody switches it off at the wall?

And dimmer compatible light bulbs.

 

[AfricanTech]

Is it possible to add a Shelly dimmer to lights that are connected to 2way switches? There are downlights in the passage with a switch at each end, can I just add a dimmer or will I need to remove one of the switches?

Edit: I suppose as long as the switches stay on the dimmer won't know the difference? As long as nobody switches it off at the wall?

Yes you can.

There are YouTube guides.

The state of the physical switch is monitored by the Shelly so you can use the app or the physical switches interchangably - it doesn't matter at all.

Disclaimer - that's with one switch, I'm not sure about 2 switches on each end.