Home Automation - Smartkit

Steamy Tom

Executive Member
Joined
Jan 23, 2019
Messages
7,712
Brown, yellow and red one side

2 red, one long red live in, on other side.

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That sounds like the 2 wires on the long side are live in (or one is live in and one is tapping power live somewhere else), and the 3 on other side (yellow, red, brown) are switch legs.
 

gbyleveldt

Senior Member
Joined
Apr 30, 2009
Messages
820
Chances of there being any Neutrals in most homes are slim to none. I had a sparky spend the day and pull in neutrals to all my light switches (around 15 I think), cost me R185 per switch. He was here anyway as I had to get plugs rewired because the DB was split for Solar.
 

Greglsh

Senior Member
Joined
Dec 27, 2009
Messages
770
Just a question, what ball park figure are you looking at to do a DB split into essentials and non-essentials? I currently have a very old house with 1 big DB board. Just wanting a ball park figure.
 

Saba'a

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Joined
May 21, 2009
Messages
6,775
Chances of there being any Neutrals in most homes are slim to none. I had a sparky spend the day and pull in neutrals to all my light switches (around 15 I think), cost me R185 per switch. He was here anyway as I had to get plugs rewired because the DB was split for Solar.
Yep was thinking when my DB split for solar want to replace original DB and install neutral.

Only alternate is switches w.o neutral but they all require hubs other than the C by GE which seems battery operated.
 

gbyleveldt

Senior Member
Joined
Apr 30, 2009
Messages
820
Just a question, what ball park figure are you looking at to do a DB split into essentials and non-essentials? I currently have a very old house with 1 big DB board. Just wanting a ball park figure.
No clue. I did that part myself. Took me the whole day to figure out what circuits go where and to confirm the live/neutral pairs (on split DB, you have to split neutrals as well). I pretty much replaced the old DB, stuck a new one over it and replaced all the breakers. Was around R3-4k in parts if I had to guess. I drew out the design, had my sparky look it over (as he needs to do CoC) and just went for it. I don’t think it would be cheap redoing it all if I had to pay someone.

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Saba'a

Executive Member
Joined
May 21, 2009
Messages
6,775
That sounds like the 2 wires on the long side are live in (or one is live in and one is tapping power live somewhere else), and the 3 on other side (yellow, red, brown) are switch legs.
Could be:

Long red live in
2 Red, yellow and brown live out, meaning no neutral.

But will test with multimeter. Sadly doubting I'll have a neutral.
 

Saba'a

Executive Member
Joined
May 21, 2009
Messages
6,775
No clue. I did that part myself. Took me the whole day to figure out what circuits go where and to confirm the live/neutral pairs (on split DB, you have to split neutrals as well). I pretty much replaced the old DB, stuck a new one over it and replaced all the breakers. Was around R3-4k in parts if I had to guess. I drew out the design, had my sparky look it over (as he needs to do CoC) and just went for it. I don’t think it would be cheap redoing it all if I had to pay someone.

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About R10 000 without moving DB but R5000 without major changes i.e. just changing inners.
 

rph72

Executive Member
Joined
Jun 3, 2005
Messages
6,554
Any feedback.

I have neutral but not enough live wires for my 3 gang light switch. It needs 4 live wires

Will see how to manage that.
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2 gang needs 3 live wires

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Had a sparky pull neutrals and install the switches. Came to about R200 a switch. He charged me a bit more than expected. Switches work well. The switch display is always on. In the bedroom it needs getting used to.

Got a KTNNKG 40A wifi switch I still need to install for the geyser when I get around to it. Going into summer now, that can wait as I have a solar geyser. I switch it off in summer.

Still need to find a use for the Sonoff I bought.
 

The_Ogre

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Apr 30, 2010
Messages
25,865
What is the highlighted item?
 

Thor

Honorary Master
Joined
Jun 5, 2014
Messages
42,821
What does it do? (looks awesome)
 

Thor

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Joined
Jun 5, 2014
Messages
42,821
This is what I have. Bridge??
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I see it says WiFi there, but something inside me says that is not the case as these are RF modules you need a 433Mhz bridge or Remote to turn it on or off.

Maybe it has both? (mine didn't, but that was previous generation)
 

gbyleveldt

Senior Member
Joined
Apr 30, 2009
Messages
820
What is the highlighted item?
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That's my inverter's energy meter (EzMeter). Because it's a Hybrid inverter with 'Zero Export' capability, it allows the inverter to power non essential loads with excess PV (feeding back to grid right up to the EzMeter), but only enough to power those loads, not a watt more that could trip a modern meter at the Sub DB. It works pretty well to use up any excess PV that's not going into charging the battery or essential loads.

What does it do? (looks awesome)

See above. It does, however, need to work with the inverter. It's useless without as it communicates through RS485 with the inverter
 

Saba'a

Executive Member
Joined
May 21, 2009
Messages
6,775
This is what I have. Bridge??
f14c90a37e62152216a9dba45215584c.jpg
RF 433 normally needs a rf bridge to change radio to wifi. But yours has wifi so no need to have a rf bridge.

Check this out on takealot: Sonoff 433RF / WIFI Bridge

Bought one for a sonoff water leak detector but think I'll rather integrate a tuya smartlife based water leak detector.

I initially invested in Sonoff. But with the qualitel wifi smart plugs and bulbs I am mostly in the Tuya ecosystem.

Google Home great for linking everything via voice control but underlying app still needs to provide the "automation".
 

Saba'a

Executive Member
Joined
May 21, 2009
Messages
6,775
That's my inverter's energy meter (EzMeter). Because it's a Hybrid inverter with 'Zero Export' capability, it allows the inverter to power non essential loads with excess PV (feeding back to grid right up to the EzMeter), but only enough to power those loads, not a watt more that could trip a modern meter at the Sub DB. It works pretty well to use up any excess PV that's not going into charging the battery or essential loads.



See above. It does, however, need to work with the inverter. It's useless without as it communicates through RS485 with the inverter
You have a goodwe? Any pros and cons issues?

I have the Sunsynk. Happy to date despite support being a bit haphazard ito responses.
 

spiff

Executive Member
Joined
Oct 17, 2007
Messages
5,543
Has anyone using wyze contact sensor changed the battery yet?

Had 2 sensor with "low battery" warning. So I replaced the batteries and now I can't get them to connect to the bridge?
 

remus786

Expert Member
Joined
Dec 9, 2007
Messages
1,100
Has anyone using wyze contact sensor changed the battery yet?

Had 2 sensor with "low battery" warning. So I replaced the batteries and now I can't get them to connect to the bridge?

Yes, I tried everything including their support and it remains dead, lots of folks complaining about the same thing.
 
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