Home Brewing / Micro Brewery / My own beer

MrR

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Been playing around with yeast a lot over the past 6 months with ale yeasts and the impact it has on ales (specifically American Pale Ale and Weizen). Stuck to a standard recipe (malts, hops) for 4-7 liters and only changed the type of yeasts during fermentation, differentiating between flocculation, various attenuations, different labs (Lallemand, Fermentis, Wyeast, etc.) and fermentation times (primary and secondary).

Surprisingly, and not sure whether due to other micro factors (temp, water quality, brewer error), but got different tastes between the labs with the same type of yeast. I'll definitely be doing further investigation on this and eventually report back.

Have had some interesting results and also somewhat off putting blends (from outright bad to "different" to "MOAR!"), based on the feedback I've received from my panel of tasters (self proclaimed judges). Bar some fine-tuning / retesting, will definitely be taking one of the recipes to a wider audience (local micro brewers & beer clubs) next year.

In addition to this, I've also played around with carbonation during bottling (from standard to double BJCP carbonation).

I'd definitely recommend to those that have a couple of brews under the belt to really learn the impact that yeast has on a brew (no doubt a couple of you are already doing this!). Great learning experience to take it to that next level.
 

GrootP

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Thanks for that!
I thought the tread had died, 4 months since the previous post.
 

BCO

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Not sure if you guys saw my recipe in the latest On Tap magazine. 100% accurately scaled down from the original 1000L recipe. Would be cool to get some feedback from anyone that gives it a shot.

IMG_1911.jpg
 

GrootP

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Hi Carl, what yeast do you use?
The 100 IBU's seems a bit steep to me. If I run that recipe thru Beersmith 2, I get IBU's at 94 with a ratio of 1.242 and I normally stick to no more than .600 with .700 the absolute max.
 

squirrel

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Toxxyc

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Thanks @soar for pointing me to this thread. For some reason it never showed up in my searches (and I did a few). Anyway, to topic.

I've always been interested in home brewing, but never really thought about giving it a real try. I've checked prices and things of these starter kits for a long time and then just forgot about it. Over the holidays though, a colleague at work rekindled the idea and I started searching. I asked some questions and happened upon a full Coppertun brewing kit. The ingredients were quite expired, but I read up online and all indicators were pointing to "brew it anyway". So I did. Now I'm Day 3 of the brew and it's bubbling away nicely. Bottles picked up today, so come this weekend (latest) I'll be bottling. Can't wait!

For interest's sake: I'm brewing a kit of Mangrove Jack's Bavarian Wheat beer, and by my estimations it's at least 3 years old, probably closer to 4~5. I opened it all and all seemed fine though, yeast included, so let's see what I can come up with...

That being said, I've been looking at kegging and it seems like smaller 5l party kegs aren't expensive at all. It's the taps that are hellishly expensive. Is this correct?
 

SukkaFoo

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I know you'll hate this but wait... Let it ride out for two weeks in the fermenter. The beer will stop visible fermentation but there's still a lot going on there. Trust me on this one.
 

Toxxyc

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I'm going to give it it's time in the fermenter, but when the hydrometer reads constant, I'm bottling. The instructions on the kit (and all others) say that it's really not advisable to let the beer sit on the dead yeast for longer than a day or two, specially in this heat. Why do you recommend I give it more time?
 

SukkaFoo

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I'm going to give it it's time in the fermenter, but when the hydrometer reads constant, I'm bottling. The instructions on the kit (and all others) say that it's really not advisable to let the beer sit on the dead yeast for longer than a day or two, specially in this heat. Why do you recommend I give it more time?

So the risk with leaving it on the yeast for longer relates to autolysis of the yeast, which is basically the cells dying and contributing to an off flavour like soy sauce. My understanding is that this was reasonably common on the commercial scale but pretty low risk on a homebrew scale, and a non-existent risk under 30 - 45 days in the fermenter. The conditioning phase is critical... let More Beer explain it, they do a better job than me...

https://www.morebeer.com/articles/conditioning

Seriously, I cannot emphasise this enough, you will end up with a much clearer, crisper beer if you let it condition for a week or so longer.

Patience young grasshopper.
 

Toxxyc

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That is a good read on the subject. The article seems to make a point of telling my why, and also mentions that the beers should not sit on the yeast for more than 2 weeks after fermentation has stopped. I'm not a patient man though, specially not with new hobbies like this, and I'm desperate to taste my first beer, so I'm not sure I'll be able to see it through :( I'll see how it goes. I won't be able to bottle the first half, since the finings need to be added to the entire batch of wort, and that means it'll toss out the yeast in suspension in the following week it has to lie on the yeast, so it'll negate the pro's of leaving it in the fermenter. I also don't want to bottle and add finings to the bottles, since that'll let the yeast flocculate in the bottles (I don't want sediment in my bottles). I don't have a secondary fermentation vessel nearly large enough to accommodate the 23l of wort either.

It's a conundrum! And your damn article is making it harder for me!
 

SukkaFoo

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I think you're mixing your terms here. Fining agents are introduced to clear the beer and settle out proteins and particulate matter. This is generally done at the the end of the mash. You can also fine with gelatine at the end of fermentation and this is a pretty good practice.

When you bottle you need to pull the fermented beer off the yeast and in another bucket add some sugar for carbonation. I think this is what you're referring to.

Honestly. Best practice will be to bottle everything at once. The moment you open the fermenter and rack off it you potentially introduce nasties.

Trust me... Wait. I cannot reiterate this enough.
 

Toxxyc

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No I know what the finings are, I was just thinking perhaps bottling half (without opening the fermenter, since it has a tap with sediment trap and everything) and then carbonating (I have carbonation drops, one per bottle) and adding finings to the first half. The other half can then be left on the yeast for another week. This will leave the fermenter sealed (no nasties to enter, neither any oxygen) and I can actually do a taste test between the two then when it's all done.

See, thing is, I'm getting people over and I don't think I can leave it in the fermenter for so long. Fermentation is starting to slow down now, bubbling is less and the people are coming... o_O
 

SukkaFoo

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OK, so what fining's are you planning on using? The point of fining is to reduce the amount of sediment that you put into the bottle. Fining and bottling immediately is pointless, rather skip the step. If you have patience... fine, chill the beer down to say 3 degrees and wait for 2 - 3 days for the particulate matter to settle out. Here's a nice read on using gelatine:

http://brulosophy.com/2015/01/05/the-gelatin-effect-exbeeriment-results/

Personally, I wouldn't bottle half, but hey, your call bud. I haven't bottled in years cos its a ball ache, so far be it for me to criticise your process I guess.

Anyway, your call, will you have drinkable beer? Probably. Could it be much better if you waited? Definitely.
 

Toxxyc

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Yeah the instructions also said - if the hydrometer is steady for 2 days, add finings and wait another day before bottling. The finings I have are the ones that came with the kit - Mangrove Jack's Beer Finings. You're making a very convincing statement on waiting another week, to be honest. Think I should test my patience and just damn-well do it. :p
 

Dimpie (COMPUTEK)

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Yeah the instructions also said - if the hydrometer is steady for 2 days, add finings and wait another day before bottling. The finings I have are the ones that came with the kit - Mangrove Jack's Beer Finings. You're making a very convincing statement on waiting another week, to be honest. Think I should test my patience and just damn-well do it. :p

Correct, but get yourself to only check this after a minimum of 10days ... beer sitting on yeast is fine for a VERY looooong time, so don't panic after just 5 days ;)

Yeah the instructions also said - if the hydrometer is steady for 2 days, add finings and wait another day before bottling. The finings I have are the ones that came with the kit - Mangrove Jack's Beer Finings. You're making a very convincing statement on waiting another week, to be honest. Think I should test my patience and just damn-well do it. :p

Yes, the finings that comes with the kit works that way .... it's also a good idea to drop the temp now to as low as possible as this will also help with clearing and settling of the yeast. My beer used to clear perfectly fine in the bottles without adding any fining adjuncts after fermentation. These days I do the gelatine thing for kegging as I usually start drinking the beer 48hrs after kegging. :D

No I know what the finings are, I was just thinking perhaps bottling half (without opening the fermenter, since it has a tap with sediment trap and everything) and then carbonating (I have carbonation drops, one per bottle) and adding finings to the first half. The other half can then be left on the yeast for another week. This will leave the fermenter sealed (no nasties to enter, neither any oxygen) and I can actually do a taste test between the two then when it's all done.

See, thing is, I'm getting people over and I don't think I can leave it in the fermenter for so long. Fermentation is starting to slow down now, bubbling is less and the people are coming... o_O

It's impossible to get liquid out at the bottom without introducing ait at the top, so that point doesn't make sense ??

So take the advise already given, and just let it sit for as long as possible .... mine sits long enough that i can see by eye it's done and I don't even need a hydrometer to tell me :)

I watched just about all this guys videos before starting my first brew and it helped a lot > https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PL2A9257341E3DF381

These days Im subscribed to about 50 homebrewers on YT and you learn more from them than from the sh|t printed on paper. :whistling:
 

Toxxyc

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It's impossible to get liquid out at the bottom without introducing ait at the top, so that point doesn't make sense ??

So take the advise already given, and just let it sit for as long as possible .... mine sits long enough that i can see by eye it's done and I don't even need a hydrometer to tell me :)

I watched just about all this guys videos before starting my first brew and it helped a lot > https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PL2A9257341E3DF381

These days Im subscribed to about 50 homebrewers on YT and you learn more from them than from the sh|t printed on paper. :whistling:

Was thinking of introducing CO2 into the airlock's hole into the ferm when bottling off, but think I'm not going to do the effort. Not worth it. Anyway, I've seen one or two of that dude's vids. He looks weird, but he is informative!

I'd prefer to sell as one piece, but send me a PM and we can talk?

Will do!
 
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