Home Brewing / Micro Brewery / My own beer

MongooseMan

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Thanks, seems everyone is raving about it on that forum... can only be good signs.

Recipe also showing ferment @17C which is easy enough during the night but during the day the garage gets up to 22 and my freezer is already in use.

Btw what hop substitution are you making for warrior? I can't get it locally here so have gone with Nugget.

Lastly looking at a BRY97 American West Coast yeast, as once again the yeasts they using aren't supplied here.

Beerguevara have warrior in stock, so i didn't have any issues there. I think they mention a few potential subs for warrior in the thread, galena was one of them iirc. (Edit: yup, galena or nugget, so you should be good.)

I used Safale us05 dry yeast (as did a number of others on that forum) and it worked great.

I fermented at between 20 and 25, us05 handled that fine. I don't have a fermentation chamber (yet).
 
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GrootP

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Aug 22, 2011
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That's like saying any food you eat straight from a tin is not safe :whistling:

... contamination would more than likely show up during fermentation :confused:

Check this out :- from a world respected home brewer whom have won numerous brewing titles, and if it is good enough for John Palmer, I would not argue but feel free to do and advise as you please.
http://www.howtobrew.com/section1/chapter1-1.html
 

Dimpie (COMPUTEK)

Honorary Master
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Apr 7, 2009
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^
I'm specifically referring to hopped extract, as boiling that would change the style, bitterness, aroma of the beer as printed on the label :whistling: as the hops have already gone through a boiling process.

...... and since John Palmer have been corrected (proven wrong) on more than one occasion, I would source information from more than one location. ;)

Therefor let me continue to advise

↓↓↓↓↓↓↓
To Boil or Not to Boil

Given that malt extract has already gone through a brewing cycle, many brewers have questioned the amount of additional processing that must be done to successfully brew beer from extract. Specifically, the question of whether worts made from extract require boiling often arises. Understanding their manufacturing process and the main goals of boiling malt extract provides the answer.

There are 5 main “-ations” that brewers are concerned with when boiling their wort or concentrated worts. These are:

Carmelization (of sugars)
Volatilization (of DMS precursors)
Sanitation
Coagulation (of proteins) and
Isomerization (of hops)

Carmelization and Volitization:

Brewing- grade extract has already undergone a kettle boil and extensive volatilization. Beneficial colors and flavors have been developed from carmelization and Maillard reactions in the kettle boil. Any volatile off aroma or flavors from the grain or DMS precursors have been removed. If the extract is diluted to wort and held at boiling temperatures without proper additional volatilization, additional precursors can be generated. In general, worts from malt extract do not need to be boiled to remove DMS precursors. However, if they are boiled, the boil must be vigorous enough to remove these precursors as more are created when wort is held hot.
Coagulation:

All brewing-grade manufacturers remove hot break from their malt extracts. Some manufacturers also remove the cold break.
Sanitation:

Though not a sterile product, brewing grade malt extract has gone through a boiling step and has a very low microbial count. It exists as a low water activity product, not permitting growth or spoilage. Contamination is normally so low that simple pasteurization of wort at 160 ºF (71 °C) for 2–5 minutes is enough to provide reasonable assurance of an uncontaminated finished product. Thus, if using a hopped malt extract or hop extracts, brewers can get away with very short or nonexistent boils, depending upon hop aroma desired and confidence in yeast and sanitation.
Isomerization:

Boiling is necessary to isomerize the alpha acids in hops in order to make them soluble. If you are brewing with unhopped malt extract, you will need to boil your hops in wort. However, you can withhold a sizeable amount of your malt extract and add it late in the boil or at the end of the boil.

SOURCE


PS: I also boil my UNHOPPED extract, but that's because the hops needs to boil an (x)amount of minutes at different time intervals to add bitterness, flavour & aroma. :)
 

acidrain

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Jan 7, 2007
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I bought an 50L urn already with a fluid level. All i have to do is throw in 1L at a time and mark off the respective notches with numbers.

And on top of that its half the price of SS pots with the equivalent capacity
 

Dimpie (COMPUTEK)

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I bought an 50L urn already with a fluid level. All i have to do is throw in 1L at a time and mark off the respective notches with numbers.

And on top of that its half the price of SS pots with the equivalent capacity

Make & model ?

please share :D
 

Unhappy438

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May 25, 2011
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Without reading through this thread, how many of you guys use the coopers kits and what are your opinions on it?
 

acidrain

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From experience, coopers real ale is pretty good as well as the sparkling ale.

Coopers lager is a waste of time. I know 2 people that used it and both didn't come out nice.
 

Dimpie (COMPUTEK)

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Without reading through this thread, how many of you guys use the coopers kits and what are your opinions on it?

out of the little bit of brands available to us, I did find the Coopers brand the best out of all of them ;) but i was also not a fan of the standard Lager kit.

... Now that I've hit the partial mash & all grain stages, I will probably never brew a "kit & kilo" type beer again :)

Even a normal SMaSH type brew (±5kg pale malt + 100g hops) is waaay better :)
 
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Necropolis

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Feb 26, 2007
Messages
8,401
My first 2 beers were kits - since then it has either been extract or partial mash. Recently got hold of a cooler box which I am going to turn into a mash tun and then it is all grain from there onwards :D

I would also like to experiment with roasting some pale malt - anyone here done anything similar?
 

Noob-Noob

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Feb 1, 2010
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So i went to Gillroys's this Saturday (again), their beer is just simply the best, i bough a case Favorite and Serious as well, strangely enough the bottles tastes far inferior to their beer on tap. Why is this?
After this weekend i think i'm done drinking for a while, having a hangover on a Monday is not fun.
 

Necropolis

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Feb 26, 2007
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Beer on tap normally tastes better than bottled beer.

Amongst other things it is generally a lot fresher.
 

Noob-Noob

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Feb 1, 2010
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Beer on tap normally tastes better than bottled beer.

Amongst other things it is generally a lot fresher.

Castle taste just as bad...haha
Had a few Kilkenny's friday night at KEG in Centurion, also on tap. Very nice beer.
 
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