Home Networking Help :(

[Smets]

Hoping someone can help me, I'm going buts with my home wifi. Set up is as follows:

TP-Link TD-W8968 modem router: In the study. This is set to be the DHCP server, it has IP 192.168.1.2, wifi is set to channel 1. DHCP range starts at 192.168.100.

Totolink N200RE wireless router: In my room. It's connected to the TP-Link via cable, LAN port to LAN port obviously. DHCP and NAT are disabled, it has a static IP of 192.168.1.1. Wifi channel set to 12.

2 PCS are connected to the TP-Link via ethernet and there are around 8 devices that run on wifi. I've tried using the same SSID and 2 seperate SSIDS, made no difference. Routers are on the same subnet mask. Have also tried setting wifi channels to auto.
Whenever the Totolink is plugged in it will run for a few mins then cause my internet connection to drop. Rebooting 1 or both routers often restores connection and then a few mins later it will drop again. With just the modem on internet connection is (relatively) stable most of the time.

Neither of these routers are more than a few months old, replaced my old DLINK 2750U because its wifi died. I'm stubborn and usually google stuff till I find a solution but I've tried everything I can think of and no joy. Help would be appreciated kind people.

 

[sreddi]

Hoping someone can help me, I'm going buts with my home wifi. Set up is as follows:

TP-Link TD-W8968 modem router: In the study. This is set to be the DHCP server, it has IP 192.168.1.2, wifi is set to channel 1. DHCP range starts at 192.168.100.

Totolink N200RE wireless router: In my room. It's connected to the TP-Link via cable, LAN port to LAN port obviously. DHCP and NAT are disabled, it has a static IP of 192.168.1.1. Wifi channel set to 12.

2 PCS are connected to the TP-Link via ethernet and there are around 8 devices that run on wifi. I've tried using the same SSID and 2 seperate SSIDS, made no difference. Routers are on the same subnet mask. Have also tried setting wifi channels to auto.
Whenever the Totolink is plugged in it will run for a few mins then cause my internet connection to drop. Rebooting 1 or both routers often restores connection and then a few mins later it will drop again. With just the modem on internet connection is (relatively) stable most of the time.

Neither of these routers are more than a few months old, replaced my old DLINK 2750U because its wifi died. I'm stubborn and usually google stuff till I find a solution but I've tried everything I can think of and no joy. Help would be appreciated kind people.

Set the two routers in seperate ipaddress networks and SSDs. Enable dhcp in both routers.

 

[Sinbad]

Set the two routers in seperate ipaddress networks and SSDs. Enable dhcp in both routers.

Bad advice

Please do the following from your PC in a command prompt while the internet is working and while it's not, and post results

Netstat -rn
Arp -a

 

[Smets]

@Sinbad yeah I know you shouldn't have 2 DHCP servers on 1 network. At the moment just the TP-Link is plugged in, internet did go down a couple of times this morning. Here are some pics of what you asked for:

http://imgur.com/a/OZLPo

http://imgur.com/a/aUuoI

http://imgur.com/a/mubkq

http://imgur.com/a/HXOWt

Hope links work

 

[Smets]

http://imgur.com/a/jYCV4

 

[irBosOtter]

Why are those screenshots showing your gateway as 192.168.1.1 and your drawing shows the TP-Link is your gateway out (plugged into ADSL) with IP 192.168.1.2?

The pc's gateway should be the ip of the TP link... if the drawing is correct

 

[gfmalan]

Hoping someone can help me, I'm going buts with my home wifi. Set up is as follows:

TP-Link TD-W8968 modem router: In the study. This is set to be the DHCP server, it has IP 192.168.1.2, wifi is set to channel 1. DHCP range starts at 192.168.100.

Totolink N200RE wireless router: In my room. It's connected to the TP-Link via cable, LAN port to LAN port obviously. DHCP and NAT are disabled, it has a static IP of 192.168.1.1. Wifi channel set to 12.

2 PCS are connected to the TP-Link via ethernet and there are around 8 devices that run on wifi. I've tried using the same SSID and 2 seperate SSIDS, made no difference. Routers are on the same subnet mask. Have also tried setting wifi channels to auto.
Whenever the Totolink is plugged in it will run for a few mins then cause my internet connection to drop. Rebooting 1 or both routers often restores connection and then a few mins later it will drop again. With just the modem on internet connection is (relatively) stable most of the time.

Neither of these routers are more than a few months old, replaced my old DLINK 2750U because its wifi died. I'm stubborn and usually google stuff till I find a solution but I've tried everything I can think of and no joy. Help would be appreciated kind people.

When everything works, and you do a ipconfig /all, what is the gateway address? And what is the DHCP address?

 

[Smets]

Sorry, my TP-Link somehow reset to default settings and had to put my ISP info in again so it reset to its default IP of 192.168.1.1. Thanks for everyone's replies. I'm not in the mood to fiddle with this cheap totlink router anymore. I got afrihost to upgrade my line to 20mb and reset etc. Internet seems more stable now with just the TP-Link router but still have occasional drops. I'm going to run a ubiquiti access point in the middle of my house as the only wifi access point and see if all is well then. If that doesn't sort things out I'll replace the TP-Link modem/router too. Thanks for everyone's time.

 

[jamacouve]

Sorry, my TP-Link somehow reset to default settings and had to put my ISP info in again so it reset to its default IP of 192.168.1.1. Thanks for everyone's replies. I'm not in the mood to fiddle with this cheap totlink router anymore. I got afrihost to upgrade my line to 20mb and reset etc. Internet seems more stable now with just the TP-Link router but still have occasional drops. I'm going to run a ubiquiti access point in the middle of my house as the only wifi access point and see if all is well then. If that doesn't sort things out I'll replace the TP-Link modem/router too. Thanks for everyone's time.

Try keep layer 3 traffic on the TP link only. Will be a lot simpler. Except for management IP's ofcourse.

 

[SauRoNZA]

Sorry, my TP-Link somehow reset to default settings and had to put my ISP info in again so it reset to its default IP of 192.168.1.1. Thanks for everyone's replies. I'm not in the mood to fiddle with this cheap totlink router anymore. I got afrihost to upgrade my line to 20mb and reset etc. Internet seems more stable now with just the TP-Link router but still have occasional drops. I'm going to run a ubiquiti access point in the middle of my house as the only wifi access point and see if all is well then. If that doesn't sort things out I'll replace the TP-Link modem/router too. Thanks for everyone's time.

Seems a bit silly to have re-configured everything on your "base" router (well you should only have one actual router).

Run your TP-Link as near as possible to defaults and make the changed on the secondary Totolink which you want to function only as a Access Point.

Plug the Totolink into the switch ports (not the WAN ports) and give it an IP of 192.168.1.2 and of course disable DHCP (NAT should be irrelevant anyway if you use the Switch port but you can disable it if you want).

If the Totolink has a Gateway or DHCP Relay field point it to the TP-Link at 192.168.1.1 and the job should be done.

DNS fields if relevant point to 192.168.1.1 as well.

Test with cable on the other side of hte Totolink and check that you can ping 192.168.1.1 and 1.2 and 8.8.8.8 (to confirm internet works).

Now configure Wireless.

All clients should receiver DHCP and Gateway Server as 192.168.1.1 if it's anything else then you cocked up somewhere on the Totolink.

*****

Since you recently upgraded to 20MB your line drops are probably related to that and the fact that it can't maintain it.

So post your line stats here.

 

[aybbleek]

Totolink N200RE wireless router: In my room. It's connected to the TP-Link via cable, LAN port to LAN port obviously. DHCP and NAT are disabled, it has a static IP of 192.168.1.1. Wifi channel set to 12.

Just a note here... 802.11 domain regulation E which South Africa uses should only have channels 1, 6 or 11 configured for 2.4GHz Wireless. Change it from 12.

 

[Sinbad]

Just a note here... 802.11 domain regulation E which South Africa uses should only have channels 1, 6 or 11 configured for 2.4GHz Wireless. Change it from 12.

hah. I'm using 13. No way I'm changing.

 

[Johnatan56]

Just a note here... 802.11 domain regulation E which South Africa uses should only have channels 1, 6 or 11 configured for 2.4GHz Wireless. Change it from 12.

South Africa is 1-13 I thought?
Cisco:
View attachment 448088

For 5GHz we copied Europe btw.

 

[SauRoNZA]

Best to stick with 1-11 anyway as there are many "American biased" client devices that don't work with 12 and up.

Xbox One comes to mind.

Get calls often from people with wireless issues that set their channels to Auto and didn't update the country so it dishes out 12 and 13 which are obviously more available.

 

[Johnatan56]

Best to stick with 1-11 anyway as there are many "American biased" client devices that don't work with 12 and up.

Xbox One comes to mind.

Get calls often from people with wireless issues that set their channels to Auto and didn't update the country so it dishes out 12 and 13 which are obviously more available.

Just curious, did they set their country to the US?

 

[aybbleek]

South Africa is 1-13 I thought?
Cisco:
View attachment 448088

For 5GHz we copied Europe btw.

We use European regulation for both. Use channel 11 because this is considered the "middle" of the specified frequency range for this non-overlapping channel on 2.4GHz. Channel 11's frequency range actually extends from Channel 9 through to Channel 13 because of the change in frequency increments in the higher channels (12 - 14) on 2.4GHz. Channels above 11 in 2.4GHz are traditionally reserved for Japan. If you use these channels you are just asking for interference from neighboring signals. So to have proper non-overlapping channels on 802.11n, use channels 1, 6 and 11. Setting a router to auto often will just select channel 6. Manually setting your channels to eliminate RF overlap (router 1 = channel 6, router 2 = channel 11, for example) will improve wireless client migration and reduce channel interference overall. You can download many free apps to scan wireless channels to get an idea of any majorly oversubscribed channels that could interfere with your network. If everything around your house is bleeding in with channel 6, then use channels 1 and 11.

 

[aybbleek]

This should explain the wireless bands and the channel overlapping a bit better

 

[The_Librarian]

This should explain the wireless bands and the channel overlapping a bit better

View attachment 448112

Interesting, thanks.

 

[SauRoNZA]

Home Networking Help

Just curious, did they set their country to the US?

No the other way round.

Default would be Germany or China or whatever uses 1-13.

Now you introduce a device that only goes up to 11 and it doesn’t even see the SSID at all.

The problem with “auto” then amounts to “but it was working yesterday” which throws most people off completely and assume it’s the Client device that is broken.

 

[Johnatan56]

We use European regulation for both. Use channel 11 because this is considered the "middle" of the specified frequency range for this non-overlapping channel on 2.4GHz. Channel 11's frequency range actually extends from Channel 9 through to Channel 13 because of the change in frequency increments in the higher channels (12 - 14) on 2.4GHz. Channels above 11 in 2.4GHz are traditionally reserved for Japan. If you use these channels you are just asking for interference from neighboring signals. So to have proper non-overlapping channels on 802.11n, use channels 1, 6 and 11. Setting a router to auto often will just select channel 6. Manually setting your channels to eliminate RF overlap (router 1 = channel 6, router 2 = channel 11, for example) will improve wireless client migration and reduce channel interference overall. You can download many free apps to scan wireless channels to get an idea of any majorly oversubscribed channels that could interfere with your network. If everything around your house is bleeding in with channel 6, then use channels 1 and 11.

I understand that, and I agree with you, the way you wrote it was what I disagreed with.