How to sell your vehicle privately. A step-by-step guide.

I'm going through this process with my i30 at the moment. This thread has been a great help.

If all goes well it'll be with the new owner by the end of the month:)
 
Any recommendations for webuycar competitors or similar? I only know of weelee.
I'm in jhb.

Don't have the time or energy to try private, but will at least try these different service providers and go with the highest bid.
 
Where / how do I get a copy of the vehicle's Registration Certificate? I tried calling NATIS but their number is permanently engaged.
 
I want to sell my car. I really want hassle free process as I am an expat and want to keep things simple. I guess best is to sell to a trader who resell it…..

Any idea on how much lower as % vs private sale I will get from them? E.g. let’s say a private seller is willing to pay 400k, what should I expect from a trader. Thanks
 
gary176 said:
I want to sell my car. I really want hassle free process as I am an expat and want to keep things simple. I guess best is to sell to a trader who resell it…..

Any idea on how much lower as % vs private sale I will get from them? E.g. let’s say a private seller is willing to pay 400k, what should I expect from a trader. Thanks
Click to expand...
That depends on the profit margin of the dealer, they are all different. The dealer will consider:
  • Marketability: Is the vehicle a tried and trusted brand?
    • VW Polo vs Maserati
  • Colour: How easy is it to offload?
    • White vs metallic purple with orangey-yellow flames
    • Modifications: Chimney exhaust, Ironing board rear spoiler on anything other than a WRX STi
    • Kak mags (Autostyle specials on a Mercedes :sick:)
  • Condition: How can I convince someone that it will last?
    • Full Service History -- books with stamps are 75%, dealer VIN # records 95%
    • How does the owner care for it:
      • Tyres tell a story, 4 different manufactures on all 4 tyres will not sell in Sandton, but maybe in Jules street
      • Any "roadworthy" issues, like leaking fluids, torn CV joint boots, worn stabiliser / suspension rubbers, Light lenses cracked, excessive smoking, excessive noise, poor brakes (including handbrake).
  • How "clean" is the car
    • How clean is the car inside? Ashtray (and carpet) full of Gunston Plain stompies?
    • How clean is the car outside?
      • Faded paint, lenses and dash means parked outside in the sun most of its life
      • Cracked windscreen / other glass
      • Dirt buildup
      • Overspray on rubbers and other items indicating bodywork
      • "Orange peel" paintjob -- acceptable in Thembisa only
      • Poor fitting body panels suggest chopshop / code 3 / township panelbeater
    • Has it had a haircut?
      • Foot pedal / gear lever / carpet / upholstery wear does not correspond with odometer mileage
      • Agent / Franchise does not recognise books stamps and services
      • Any wear on suspension that does not correspond with mileage
  • All papers in order?
    • License disk,
    • Green paper,
    • letter from bank with settlement figure / proof of settlement
Based on a condition report the dealer will come up with a figure, it will always be way below retail value, he needs to eat and make a profit, plus repair costs to make it saleable, and still come out at a marketable cost. Put yourself in his shoes, any vehicle not sold in 4-8 weeks is a loss, less if his margins are lower.

20% below retail value if the car is in pristine (showroom) condition;
25-30% below if no roadworthy (for starters)
Any other issues, it can be far more than 30%

What vehicle do you have? What year model and mileage? What do you expect to get for it?
 
RonSwanson said:
That depends on the profit margin of the dealer, they are all different. The dealer will consider:
  • Marketability: Is the vehicle a tried and trusted brand?
    • VW Polo vs Maserati
  • Colour: How easy is it to offload?
    • White vs metallic purple with orangey-yellow flames
    • Modifications: Chimney exhaust, Ironing board rear spoiler on anything other than a WRX STi
    • Kak mags (Autostyle specials on a Mercedes :sick:)
  • Condition: How can I convince someone that it will last?
    • Full Service History -- books with stamps are 75%, dealer VIN # records 95%
    • How does the owner care for it:
      • Tyres tell a story, 4 different manufactures on all 4 tyres will not sell in Sandton, but maybe in Jules street
      • Any "roadworthy" issues, like leaking fluids, torn CV joint boots, worn stabiliser / suspension rubbers, Light lenses cracked, excessive smoking, excessive noise, poor brakes (including handbrake).
  • How "clean" is the car
    • How clean is the car inside? Ashtray (and carpet) full of Gunston Plain stompies?
    • How clean is the car outside?
      • Faded paint, lenses and dash means parked outside in the sun most of its life
      • Cracked windscreen / other glass
      • Dirt buildup
      • Overspray on rubbers and other items indicating bodywork
      • "Orange peel" paintjob -- acceptable in Thembisa only
      • Poor fitting body panels suggest chopshop / code 3 / township panelbeater
    • Has it had a haircut?
      • Foot pedal / gear lever / carpet / upholstery wear does not correspond with odometer mileage
      • Agent / Franchise does not recognise books stamps and services
      • Any wear on suspension that does not correspond with mileage
  • All papers in order?
    • License disk,
    • Green paper,
    • letter from bank with settlement figure / proof of settlement
Based on a condition report the dealer will come up with a figure, it will always be way below retail value, he needs to eat and make a profit, plus repair costs to make it saleable, and still come out at a marketable cost. Put yourself in his shoes, any vehicle not sold in 4-8 weeks is a loss, less if his margins are lower.

20% below retail value if the car is in pristine (showroom) condition;
25-30% below if no roadworthy (for starters)
Any other issues, it can be far more than 30%

What vehicle do you have? What year model and mileage? What do you expect to get for it?
Click to expand...

Thank you.

I have 2013 Prado VX petrol. 210k on clock and full franchise service history… no problem with the car and in excellent condition.

I am a second owner, bought it 9 months ago but selling as leaving country in next 3-6 months. The original owner put extras worth 120k original price.

Looking to get 400k.
 
gary176 said:
Thank you.

I have 2013 Prado VX petrol. 210k on clock and full franchise service history… no problem with the car and in excellent condition.

I am a second owner, bought it 9 months ago but selling as leaving country in next 3-6 months. The original owner put extras worth 120k original price.

Looking to get 400k.
Click to expand...

Those things are worth an absolute mint currently due to the new vehicle shortage, you can sell them waaaaaay above the current retail value. Even Webuycars and their ilk give great offers for them.
 
airborne said:
Those things are worth an absolute mint currently due to the new vehicle shortage, you can sell them waaaaaay above the current retail value. Even Webuycars and their ilk give great offers for them.
Click to expand...
They sent me a 300k offer which I outright rejected…. The car has 120k worth of extras alone…..

Trying weelee else will go private sale
 
gary176 said:
They sent me a 300k offer which I outright rejected…. The car has 120k worth of extras alone…..

Trying weelee else will go private sale
Click to expand...

Generally you don’t get much for extras when you sell a vehicle, just the way it is. Best to sell privately and find an enthusiast who will appreciate the value of what’s been added.
 
Thank you, I am a bit concerned around selling privately.
Is there any company who helps manage the end to end process for a commission?
airborne said:
Generally you don’t get much for extras when you sell a vehicle, just the way it is. Best to sell privately and find an enthusiast who will appreciate the value of what’s been added.
Click to expand...
 
gary176 said:
Thank you, I am a bit concerned around selling privately.
Is there any company who helps manage the end to end process for a commission?
Click to expand...
Bumping up to see if there is a company who helps with the entire selling end to end process. Thanks
 
My wife's car is a write-off, no insurance, the car is in the wifes name, and no bank or finance is involved. A friend offered to buy it and he will be fixing it and maybe use or sell it.
What is the best way to do the transfer in this scenario ? There wont be roadworthy obviously
 
joker08 said:
My wife's car is a write-off, no insurance, the car is in the wifes name, and no bank or finance is involved. A friend offered to buy it and he will be fixing it and maybe use or sell it.
What is the best way to do the transfer in this scenario ? There wont be roadworthy obviously
Click to expand...
You can do the transfer of ownership as normal without doing roadworthy they just won't issue an updated license disc.
 
ipodmusicman said:
<snip>

4. Go to your local traffic department and pick up the following:

4.1 One "Yellow" Notification of Change of Ownership/Sale of Motor Vehicle form. http://www.capegateway.gov.za/other...change_of_ownership_or_sale_motor_vehicle.pdf

4.2 One "Blue" Application for Registration and Licensing of Motor Vehicle form. http://www.capegateway.gov.za/other/2006/3/rlv_app_registration_licence_motor_vehicle.pdf

I am going to refer to the "Yellow" and "Blue" forms within the context of this post.

5. Download a sales agreenment and print it out. Found one http://www.cooperattorneys.co.za/Vehicle/sale of vehicle.pdf

<snip>
Click to expand...

Are there perhaps updated URLs available in order to obtain 4.1, 4.2 and 5 as per the OP?
 
RogueTr00per said:
Are there perhaps updated URLs available in order to obtain 4.1, 4.2 and 5 as per the OP?
Click to expand...

As the seller you only need to complete the NCO form (you give that to the buyer) and just give the buyer a copy of your ID and obviously the original registration paper, that's it. As the seller you don't need to do anything else, you don't need to go anywhere etc etc.

NCO form


With all sales agreements that are freely available on the internet for cars, you just need to adjust them a bit to suit your car sale. Some have "the car is roadworthy, or the car is free from all faults, etc etc etc" just take out what you don't need. Most importantly there must be a "voetstoets" clause saying the buyer accepts the car as is with all the faults...
 

Attachments

  • NCO.pdf
    38.7 KB · Views: 6
Wrath of Khan MD said:
As the seller you only need to complete the NCO form (you give that to the buyer) and just give the buyer a copy of your ID and obviously the original registration paper, that's it. As the seller you don't need to do anything else, you don't need to go anywhere etc etc.

NCO form


With all sales agreements that are freely available on the internet for cars, you just need to adjust them a bit to suit your car sale. Some have "the car is roadworthy, or the car is free from all faults, etc etc etc" just take out what you don't need. Most importantly there must be a "voetstoets" clause saying the buyer accepts the car as is with all the faults...
Click to expand...

Thanks, but would the Seller not want to hand in the NCO form in case the Buyer neglects to do so?

Is printing out the NCO form acceptable for the traffic department or does one need to go get it from there as a 'yellow' form?
 
RogueTr00per said:
Thanks, but would the Seller not want to hand in the NCO form in case the Buyer neglects to do so?

Is printing out the NCO form acceptable for the traffic department or does one need to go get it from there as a 'yellow' form?
Click to expand...

print out is 100% fine.

I'm not 100% sure on the NCO form and if the seller must do that. In all the cars I've sold I've never been into the "authorities" as the seller to hand in paperwork. But then again my buyers were decent I guess, lol.

It is a bit weird because the form does say, "the seller must hand over this form" but then also says, "the owner must hand in this form" ... you can't both hand in the form?! lol
 
maybe as a safeguard :

1) complete the NCO form as the seller and signed by both parties. Make a copy of that form and give it to the buyer.
2) you the seller take the original NCO form to the licencing department and just hand it in.
3) maybe make a copy of the buyers ID and hand that in as well.
4) the buyer must also hand in his copy of the NCO form when registering it.
 
RogueTr00per said:
Thanks, but would the Seller not want to hand in the NCO form in case the Buyer neglects to do so?

Is printing out the NCO form acceptable for the traffic department or does one need to go get it from there as a 'yellow' form?
Click to expand...
Most definitely, just fill out two nco forms so you have one in case.
Also if I recall correctly some licensing authorities will only let the seller submit the NCO
As far as I am aware a printed form is fine, I've even seen them at the offices when they run out of the yellow ones but perhaps to save the bother phone your local licensing dept to make sure.
 
Sold one of my cars last Friday. I printed the forms and completed the NCO form and just asked the buyer to sign part B.
Attached a copy of both my and his ID and proof of address and handed it in this morning at our Traffic department and the ownership was removed from my name.

I gave him the original registration certificate together with the RLV form and copy of my ID that he must complete and hand in at Traffic department.

Seller must hand in the NCO form and buyer the RLV form.
 
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