Lithium Car Battery retailer SA ?

ToxicBunny

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You clearly have no understanding about batteries at all. Of course you can keep it on constant float charge.
It only poses a problem when you have damaged or bad cells, then it will ruin the battery, if the battery is healthy it can prolong it's life.
You can do, but you don't need to and with a car battery and your fancy programmable charger (which fscked out it seems) you add unnecessary risk and end up with your acid spill.

I have only ever had to replace a car battery once at around 2 years because of dodgy wiring that was draining the battery unnecessarily, other my batteries have lasted the time time I've had the vehicle (3 - 5 years) happily.
 

FlyUAv

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Mar 24, 2009
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It's possible
Have you considered that maybe you just got a faulty battery?
that a cell is not 100% yes, the charger is in excellent shape, unfortunately you cannot individually balance cells in a lead acid battery, so you cannot spot the dead cell by probing it electronically, another reason i want to go lithium.
 

FlyUAv

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You can do, but you don't need to and with a car battery and your fancy programmable charger (which fscked out it seems) you add unnecessary risk and end up with your acid spill.

I have only ever had to replace a car battery once at around 2 years because of dodgy wiring that was draining the battery unnecessarily, other my batteries have lasted the time time I've had the vehicle (3 - 5 years) happily.
No the charger is fine, i like to get accurate results, that's why i'm using my fancy charger, However if the cells aren't in perfect state it could be a problem, i am not denying that, and possibly i have a bad cell.
 

ToxicBunny

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Accurate results for something that is entirely a waste of time...

If the car is driven at least once ever 2 or 3 weeks, you should never have to charge the battery independently....
 

thehuman

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No the charger is fine, i like to get accurate results, that's why i'm using my fancy charger, However if the cells aren't in perfect state it could be a problem, i am not denying that, and possibly i have a bad cell.
Would like some info on sound setup
Watts, current draw , alternator current
Also do the sound system regularly overpower the alternator (voltage on battery start to drop regardless of car running) it true you would rather need bigger alternator.
 

FlyUAv

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Accurate results for something that is entirely a waste of time...

If the car is driven at least once ever 2 or 3 weeks, you should never have to charge the battery independently....
Your opinion, i like to know more about the state of my battery, and you can know more about the state of a lithium battery as you can keep tabs and balance individual cells.
 

ambroseg1

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It's possible

that a cell is not 100% yes, the charger is in excellent shape, unfortunately you cannot individually balance cells in a lead acid battery, so you cannot spot the dead cell by probing it electronically, another reason i want to go lithium.
http://www.viragotech.com/fixit/deadcell.html
Battery dead cell check
Another way of checking each individual cell is to use your voltmeter. Put
one lead to the + or - and then stick the other in the holes where the acid is.
Count how many caps you have and divide that by the total of your battery.
Ex. a 12 volt battery may have four caps. then there are three volts per cell.

Lets say you have the black lead of the volt meter to the negative post of
the battery. Then you put the red lead into the first cell and it reads 3
volts, that means that cell is good. Then the next cell reads 3 volts/good.
The next cell reads 1.3 volts and that one would be bad.
If you wanted to check to see if the last cell is bad then put the red lead
on the positive, and put the black lead into the acid and see what that reads.

If all cells add up to the total voltage of the battery, then the battery is all good.

I admit this is a simple test, and it still does not put a load on the
battery, but it lets you find a bad cell.

Chris
'83 Yamaha Venture XVZ1200


All car and bike batteries I have seen have 6 cells of 2 volts each. If
you keep one lead on a terminal and move the other lead progressively up
the cells, you should read 2,4,6,8,10 volts, and finally 12 with each lead
on a terminal. If a cell isn't contributing, it's dead and so is the
battery.

Jeremy
 

FlyUAv

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Would like some info on sound setup
Watts, current draw , alternator current
Also do the sound system regularly overpower the alternator (voltage on battery start to drop regardless of car running) it true you would rather need bigger alternator.
Everything is stock, the battery was replaced, it is not the oem battery and it did not have the drainage piping which i assume you get with some vehicles OEM.

I just don't like acid spills in case you have a damaged cell that cannot conventionally be picked up unless you physically probe it, and i don't like lead acid in general so will be going Life soon.
 
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FlyUAv

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Thanks, but too much hassle when i know there is an easier way (using a lithium battery), having to take out the battery which takes an hour then unscrew the caps to check individual cells with a voltmeter is not feasible when i know that a lithium battery can do it without doing anything but watch the LED screen on your charger. And there is no maintenance going Lithium.
 

thehuman

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Everything is stock, the battery was replaced, it is not the oem battery and it did not have the drainage piping which i assume you get with some vehicles OEM.

I just don't like acid spills and i don't like lead acid in general so will be going Life soon.
If your alternator can keep up to the amps no need to charge battery. Hope the battery vent is connected to ventilation pipe leading to outside car.
 

DMNknight

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Not at all, i charged the battery because i wanted it to be fully charged as it was not, some batteries can be taken up to 14.40 volts and that is when the charge cuts the charge, all of the batteries that i had in the past did not have a problem going to 14.40 volts. The one i have now spilled acid at 14.30 volts

So A: It's either the battery is aging or B: this battery cannot be taken to 14.40 volts, that was the problem, there is absolutely nothing stupid for charging your battery full.

There are even batteries that can take up to 15 volts.
It's not stupid, its ignorance.

You really should not be charging batteries unnecessarily because you encourage the breakdown of the chemical processes by adding to much energy into the mix which is why lithium based batteries go into thermal runaway and why acid batteries "boil"

Batteries aren't glasses of wine or fuel tanks. You don't need to keep them topped up all the time.

A lot of them are "better" between 75 and 90% charge and prefer a slow charge. If you discharge them too far, they degrade in performance. If you overcharge them, they degrade in performance. It entirely depends on the quality of the build of the battery on how much damage gets done.
There's a sweet spot you can maintain to get a long battery life out of your battery.

You didn't know... now you do.
 

ToxicBunny

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Your opinion, i like to know more about the state of my battery, and you can know more about the state of a lithium battery as you can keep tabs and balance individual cells.
Of course you can know more about the state of your battery, hooking it up to a charger is not actually the best way to do that....

And you will be spending unnecessary money converting to Lithium purely because you do something that is entirely unnecessary with a Lead Acid battery.

If you continuously charge a Lithium battery and the circuits in charge of that fail, you no longer have an acid spill to deal with, but a burnt out car... you are adding a ridiculous risk purely because you think Lead Acid isn't good enough.
 

DMNknight

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P.S floating charge is only there to compensate for ambient temperature changes and the natural discharge of a battery.
 

ToxicBunny

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Everything is stock, the battery was replaced, it is not the oem battery and it did not have the drainage piping which i assume you get with some vehicles OEM.

I just don't like acid spills in case you have a damaged cell that cannot conventionally be picked up unless you physically probe it, and i don't like lead acid in general so will be going Life soon.
This is something else that needs to be probed...

You claim everything is stock but you have a big sound system so the battery is clearly not the stock size for the vehicle (which you have yet to hint at make and model)... something tells me that there are definitely things in the vehicle that are not stock by any stretch of the imagination.
 

Colin62

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Hey, if you’ve cooked it, you know all you need to about it’s state. It’s useless as a battery, but that’s obviously of secondary importance to knowing it’s state. No one wants a battery that actually works if you can’t even be sure if it’s 98% or 100% charged.
 

The_Traveller

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You clearly have no understanding about batteries at all. Of course you can keep it on constant float charge.
It only poses a problem when you have damaged or bad cells, then it will ruin the battery, if the battery is healthy it can prolong it's life.
Yes you are 100% correct in that.

But remember a battery has a BB date regardless of how much care you put in.
 

DMNknight

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Everything is stock, the battery was replaced, it is not the oem battery and it did not have the drainage piping which i assume you get with some vehicles OEM.

I just don't like acid spills in case you have a damaged cell that cannot conventionally be picked up unless you physically probe it, and i don't like lead acid in general so will be going Life soon.
I really don't think Lithium is a good call unless it's in a packaged deal. Some days, the sun is a real bitch and Lithium can go into thermal run away very easily.
At best, they'll blow the CID and you'll come back to a car with a dead battery pack. At worst, the CID's will fail to prevent thermal runaway and you'll come back to a burnt down car and heaven forbid it's inside a garage or parking lot.
 

thechamp

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What about gel batteries for cars, do they make them?
AGM type is available for automotive use, the gel is a completely different type of battery that has very particular charging requirements, just retrofitting it to a car or any other applications it was not designed for won't work.
 
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