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So I have the bulk charge set to 28.2V(14.1V per Battery) that was due to the warranty requirements

It's the Revo batteries if that makes a difference
Okay, 28.2 then. What does the balance look like then?
 
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Surely there must be a way to change the cut-off/ shut-down voltage of 19.8V?
It is either changing a resister or re programming the EEPROM?

Without an external battery protect circuit there are no way that a LEAD/AGM/Gel & even a Lithium will last!
  1. LEAD acid 50% of DOD is around 24.4V
  2. Gel 50% of DOD is around 25V
Gel batteries just don't last with this inverter, as soon as it go below 24V it done for.

I build a battery protect circuit using a Victron 12/24 65A battery protect & 24VDC 80A relay, however the Victron is stupid and can only be set to a max off 24V cut off, so not good for either Lead/AGM or Gel options but a lot better than the 19.8V inverter cut off
 
Surely there must be a way to change the cut-off/ shut-down voltage of 19.8V?
It is either changing a resister or re programming the EEPROM?

Without an external battery protect circuit there are no way that a LEAD/AGM/Gel & even a Lithium will last!
  1. LEAD acid 50% of DOD is around 24.4V
  2. Gel 50% of DOD is around 25V
Gel batteries just don't last with this inverter, as soon as it go below 24V it done for.

I build a battery protect circuit using a Victron 12/24 65A battery protect & 24VDC 80A relay, however the Victron is stupid and can only be set to a max off 24V cut off, so not good for either Lead/AGM or Gel options but a lot better than the 19.8V inverter cut off
Gel/AGM batteries aren't the greatest, I had them hooked up to an inverter that did warn and shutdown at 50% they still only lasted 5 months or so thanks to the power outages and load shedding we had.
 
Is 13.47 volts on battery 1 and 13.59 volts on Battery 2 that's connected in series normal?

It's a LFP batteries with a balancer

I am under the impression it's meant to be a equal voltage on both batteries?
You mentioned you have the Victron balancer:

Red: alarm (deviation > 0,2V). Remains on until the deviation has reduced to less than 0,14V, or until system voltage drops to less than 26,6V.

There you go :)
 
Bottom is breakers between batteries and inverter, top is fuses between panels and batteries.
Solar controller is reading battery voltage @ 27.4, which is Mecer float, and the panels are off.

Switching the panels into the circuit means the float goes up to 28.8v (controlled by the cheap-crap controller), so I generally leave the panels off until we get load-shed in the daytime and I need them. I don't like that high float (28.8v), and I can't lower it (cheap-crap controller).
Meh - it does what I need.


View attachment 1398477
May sound like a stupid Q but what are the regulations surrounding this type of DIY build when it comes to potential insurance claims? Have read that solar panels need to have a metal trunking run through to inside and then change to PVC trunking. I have 3 separate inverters (Mecer 24v being one of em) and have mulled installing 6 panels to run each of the inverters located in separate areas. Sparkies all told me they would have to CoC the install of the panels and connectors etc. P*sses me off that no one can provide the correct info so that, in case something goes wrong, the insurance won't void any claims!
 
May sound like a stupid Q but what are the regulations surrounding this type of DIY build when it comes to potential insurance claims? Have read that solar panels need to have a metal trunking run through to inside and then change to PVC trunking. I have 3 separate inverters (Mecer 24v being one of em) and have mulled installing 6 panels to run each of the inverters located in separate areas. Sparkies all told me they would have to CoC the install of the panels and connectors etc. P*sses me off that no one can provide the correct info so that, in case something goes wrong, the insurance won't void any claims!
What is the other inverter? Also I'm looking at helping a friend with his 2 24v mecers to connect to solar, there is a lot of info out there but as you said insurance is a big one.
 
May sound like a stupid Q but what are the regulations surrounding this type of DIY build when it comes to potential insurance claims? Have read that solar panels need to have a metal trunking run through to inside and then change to PVC trunking. I have 3 separate inverters (Mecer 24v being one of em) and have mulled installing 6 panels to run each of the inverters located in separate areas. Sparkies all told me they would have to CoC the install of the panels and connectors etc. P*sses me off that no one can provide the correct info so that, in case something goes wrong, the insurance won't void any claims!
If you have the DIY skills then do it properly and pay a sparky to CoC it.
 
What is the other inverter? Also I'm looking at helping a friend with his 2 24v mecers to connect to solar, there is a lot of info out there but as you said insurance is a big one.
The Ecco 1500W I got from you, 3kw 24V MUST and 1440w 24V Mecer.

The Ecco and MUST have built in solar chargers so just need to run the cables and fuses and get a MPPT for the Mecer. I want to install the panels in prep for a larger solar system and run the cables so long but getting the right advice is a flippen nightmare!
 
In my experience, insurance companies will try and reject a claim on the basis that you failed to notify them that you'd repainted your front door in a darker shade of green since they assessed their risk on the property and now that the building specs have changed they won't pay out.

**** 'em.
 
In my experience, insurance companies will try and reject a claim on the basis that you failed to notify them that you'd repainted your front door in a darker shade of green since they assessed their risk on the property and now that the building specs have changed they won't pay out.

**** 'em.
That's my position as well, do something right because you are a decent person who values your life and that of your family, so don't build something that will catch fire to start with, follow all the safety precautions as much as you possibly can and hope for the best.

Most of the insurances I have I got them because I had to, not because I thought they will save me one day, of course I hope they will but my default position is that they are going to come up with a story.
 
The Ecco 1500W I got from you, 3kw 24V MUST and 1440w 24V Mecer.

The Ecco and MUST have built in solar chargers so just need to run the cables and fuses and get a MPPT for the Mecer. I want to install the panels in prep for a larger solar system and run the cables so long but getting the right advice is a flippen nightmare!
Maybe speak to your sparky about what is required to pass regulations.

What I know:
Don't run DC and AC next to each other in same trunking, they interfere with each other. So no AC and DC wires running parallel to each other but you can cross at 90 degree angles.
I would use metal conduit as a fire prevention but not sure if this is a requirement.
Use breakers and fuses specced 20% higher than your load. These are to protect the cable so spec it lower than the rated amps of the cable.
Spec your cable for the length of the run. Long run needs thicker wire as voltage drop is a thing when under load. Use an online calculator.
Keep your solar charger as close to the battery as possible.
Earth your panels (not from the frame as the panel doesn't make good connection).
 
Maybe speak to your sparky about what is required to pass regulations.

What I know:
Don't run DC and AC next to each other in same trunking, they interfere with each other. So no AC and DC wires running parallel to each other but you can cross at 90 degree angles.
I would use metal conduit as a fire prevention but not sure if this is a requirement.
Use breakers and fuses specced 20% higher than your load. These are to protect the cable so spec it lower than the rated amps of the cable.
Spec your cable for the length of the run. Long run needs thicker wire as voltage drop is a thing when under load. Use an online calculator.
Keep your solar charger as close to the battery as possible.
Earth your panels (not from the frame as the panel doesn't make good connection).
I was told thick speaker wire can be used, you know the type they get for large car sound systems. This is to connect the batteries to the inverter. Is there truth in this?
 
I was told thick speaker wire can be used, you know the type they get for large car sound systems. This is to connect the batteries to the inverter. Is there truth in this?
Yoh! :oops:
You really don't want to do that, I wonder what gives people the confidence to go around giving bad advice like that.
 
I was told thick speaker wire can be used, you know the type they get for large car sound systems. This is to connect the batteries to the inverter. Is there truth in this?
I suppose this is the same thing at the end of the day. Car sound amps also have to handle heavy current. Welding cable is good option too. There is also cable for batteries. I prefer the welding cable, as it's nice and flexible.

The thickness depends on the amps and the length.

Assuming you have a 1000W 12V inverter. W = V x A

1000W divide 12 = 83.33A

Assuming you have a 1 meter cable from battery to inverter you need a 35mm squared cable thickness if you don't want any voltage drop.
1665678544500.png
This is the effect length has:
1665678944794.png
1665678970590.png

Don't forget to add a fuse. Size the fuse 25% more than the cable. So 100A cable, 125A fuse for example.

Hope that helps?
 
Yoh! :oops:
You really don't want to do that, I wonder what gives people the confidence to go around giving bad advice like that.
He's probably talking about heavy gauge 10000W car rattling sound. Will probably pay an arm and a leg for it though.
 
Yeah Baby!
High voltage cable cross section - Electrical Engineering Stack Exchange
 
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