MyBB Motorcycle Owners Thread (2nd gear)

Archer

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So what's the trick with the BMW quickshifter? Some days it seems smooth as butter and others it'll clunk its way through the gears
 

SirFooK'nG

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So what's the trick with the BMW quickshifter? Some days it seems smooth as butter and others it'll clunk its way through the gears
For me its making sure you have at least the tiniest bit of acceleration while changing up (for slow speeds). If you back off the throttle completely or even just a bit, then it will be clunky or not even want to change.
 

Archer

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For me its making sure you have at least the tiniest bit of acceleration while changing up (for slow speeds). If you back off the throttle completely or even just a bit, then it will be clunky or not even want to change.
Mine honestly seems random :p on upshifts I'm always keeping throttle steady but doesn't seem to matter what revs its at. Maybe next time I go to BMW I'll ask them to check what software version it's got, I see on other forums that an update has often smoothed things out.
 

Erohann

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There is always clutchless shifting? Powershifting? Idk what to call it. Not the expert
 

SauRoNZA

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Mine honestly seems random :p on upshifts I'm always keeping throttle steady but doesn't seem to matter what revs its at. Maybe next time I go to BMW I'll ask them to check what software version it's got, I see on other forums that an update has often smoothed things out.

So I’m on my third quick shifter because I always felt it didn’t work properly from day one compared to the demo bike I rode.

First one failed outright at one point and simply stopped shifting after a very scary moment of basically false neutral between I think 3rd and 4th or 4th and 5th, don’t quite remember.

They replaced it then but what I didn’t realise is they only replaced the shift actuator but and not the wiring and other parts of it.

I think at that point they did open it up for the warranty claim and I seem to recall there may have been corrosion of some kind, but don’t quote me on this.

So some many kilometres later they enquired if I was happy and much like you I told them it was pretty damn random. Some days it would shift just fine and then others it would randomly resist or have a clunky shift or just get very “elastic” if that makes sense.

Downshifts will closed throttle (as one should do it) was never a problem but upshifts were a roll of the dice on anything but WOT.

They booked it in to have a proper look and then did some resistance tests on the wiring or other components and found it was out of spec and so this time they replaced the entire thing.

Now I’ll say it’s much more consistent for sure; but it’s still not 100% the “always fires as expected when pulling the trigger” like it is on the Inline 4 BMW’s and there definitely is a difference at various throttle openings and it really doesn’t like slow riding lazy shifting.

So my method is pretty much to have a fast throttle action and then shift up just as it accelerates and in doing so I’ve learnt it get it pretty much the same every time. Kind of like short shifting, with hard/fast but small throttle openings as I shift up.

In a way I kind of use the throttle as the clutch. That moment where one would pull in the clutch is now where I slightly open it up and then I shift.

Could be my imagination but I’m convinced it works better in Dynamic ride mode too.

Downshifts I just always smash it down and make sure the throttle is fully closed. Then depending on the revs you make sure you aren’t mid corner so it doesn’t sidestep too violently. :).

TDLR; Treat it like an abusive husband, with a strong and firm grip and quick percussive action.
 

SauRoNZA

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Mine honestly seems random :p on upshifts I'm always keeping throttle steady but doesn't seem to matter what revs its at. Maybe next time I go to BMW I'll ask them to check what software version it's got, I see on other forums that an update has often smoothed things out.

You see steady is harder to do that simply opening it up just the second before you shift up.

It wants to be accelerating.

There is some procedure to reset it’s learnings by running it through each gear after X amount of seconds, but it’s impossible to do on the road and I’m not doing that **** on my centre stand.
 

Archer

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You see steady is harder to do that simply opening it up just the second before you shift up.

It wants to be accelerating.

There is some procedure to reset it’s learnings by running it through each gear after X amount of seconds, but it’s impossible to do on the road and I’m not doing that **** on my centre stand.
I was trying to follow what the manual says - need to keep the load factor (throttle) constant. But let me pop it into dynamic this morning and see how it goes. Need to see the dealer anyway, front end feels much lighter than what I was expecting / remembered from the old model. Obviously it's a different bike but I don't recall the front wobbling (wandering?) a touch when facing turbulence. Makes me wonder if the front fork recall was done on this bike
 

SauRoNZA

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I was trying to follow what the manual says - need to keep the load factor (throttle) constant. But let me pop it into dynamic this morning and see how it goes. Need to see the dealer anyway, front end feels much lighter than what I was expecting / remembered from the old model. Obviously it's a different bike but I don't recall the front wobbling (wandering?) a touch when facing turbulence. Makes me wonder if the front fork recall was done on this bike

That tele-lever business has always felt weird and wandering the me.

New GS felt downright weird to me in high winds.
 

SirFooK'nG

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On the R1200, I know there are slight differences in the gearbox (LC Models) from 2013 to 2018, possibly 3 different variants or tweaks between those years. I have had both a 2015 & 2016 GSA, the 2016 has the shift assist and the 2015 not. Currently I am riding the 2016 GSA, and yes sometimes a shift is buttery smooth and now and then clunky. I also had a 2019 R1250GSA for while, and it did seem smoother on shifts, but that was expected as explained to me the gearbox again had some upgrades as well as the shift assist when compared to the 1200 models.

As for the 4 pot beemers (and possibly the 2 cylinder 850's), my understanding is there is a very big difference in the Shift Assist, not to mention they don't have the agriculture gearbox the boxer has!

One big difference in the gears, I could be mistaken here, the R1000RR has straight cut gears while the boxer has helical cut gears.
 

SirFooK'nG

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I was trying to follow what the manual says - need to keep the load factor (throttle) constant. But let me pop it into dynamic this morning and see how it goes. Need to see the dealer anyway, front end feels much lighter than what I was expecting / remembered from the old model. Obviously it's a different bike but I don't recall the front wobbling (wandering?) a touch when facing turbulence. Makes me wonder if the front fork recall was done on this bike
Which model are you on (forgot if you mentioned)? As for the wondering / feels light on the front, quite a few of my club members complained about this while using the Dunlop Trailmax Mission tyres. Personally I have them on and it seems fine for me, but I hardly ever clock over 150, the guys I mentioned all said they feel it at high speed. Knobblies certainly can do the same.

On to turbulence, I'm a big guy and have my screen up to the full height and with an extender on top. Depending on the crosswind and what is ahead of me, turbulence hits me anything up to 100m behind another vehicle. Did the same with every 1200 / 1250 I have had. Used to it now.
 

SauRoNZA

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On the R1200, I know there are slight differences in the gearbox (LC Models) from 2013 to 2018, possibly 3 different variants or tweaks between those years. I have had both a 2015 & 2016 GSA, the 2016 has the shift assist and the 2015 not. Currently I am riding the 2016 GSA, and yes sometimes a shift is buttery smooth and now and then clunky. I also had a 2019 R1250GSA for while, and it did seem smoother on shifts, but that was expected as explained to me the gearbox again had some upgrades as well as the shift assist when compared to the 1200 models.

As for the 4 pot beemers (and possibly the 2 cylinder 850's), my understanding is there is a very big difference in the Shift Assist, not to mention they don't have the agriculture gearbox the boxer has!

One big difference in the gears, I could be mistaken here, the R1000RR has straight cut gears while the boxer has helical cut gears.

The shift assist is identical between the bikes, but like you say the gearboxes are quite different and the R-series one is pretty damn agricultural until at least 2017/18 depending on the bike.

Nothing liking pulling up next to a 911 Turbo and kicking that thing into 1st gear to assert your dominance.
 

Archer

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Which model are you on (forgot if you mentioned)? As for the wondering / feels light on the front, quite a few of my club members complained about this while using the Dunlop Trailmax Mission tyres. Personally I have them on and it seems fine for me, but I hardly ever clock over 150, the guys I mentioned all said they feel it at high speed. Knobblies certainly can do the same.

On to turbulence, I'm a big guy and have my screen up to the full height and with an extender on top. Depending on the crosswind and what is ahead of me, turbulence hits me anything up to 100m behind another vehicle. Did the same with every 1200 / 1250 I have had. Used to it now.
2016 GSA
I have different tyres though. What I have noticed is that it is only a certain stretch of road where this really happens, so probably I'm overthinking it all (at least I hope so)

And yes on turbulence I'm still on the stock screen, so that sucks. I'll be getting an aftermarket screen and/or an extender. I reckon I need about 10cm above the current height since if I just put my hand above the screen it gets much quieter.
 

Tpex

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As somebody who instinctively learned to counter lean this video was such a relief. I always thought I was doing something wrong, and when I did try and lean in to a corner it never felt right.
 

GhostSixFour

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As somebody who instinctively learned to counter lean this video was such a relief. I always thought I was doing something wrong, and when I did try and lean in to a corner it never felt right.

I learned it during some offroad training, and it made sense to me. Used it ever since.
 

Archer

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As somebody who instinctively learned to counter lean this video was such a relief. I always thought I was doing something wrong, and when I did try and lean in to a corner it never felt right.
My mind somehow leans in if I have confidence in the corner + grip, and counter leans if not. Best of both worlds!
 

SirFooK'nG

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As somebody who instinctively learned to counter lean this video was such a relief. I always thought I was doing something wrong, and when I did try and lean in to a corner it never felt right.
Same here, but now I use a combo of both, depends on my speed. Low speed I ride dirt style....
 

SauRoNZA

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Same here, but now I use a combo of both, depends on my speed. Low speed I ride dirt style....

Was about to say there is a time for both.

You aren’t counter leaning **** at high speeds and especially not on road.

But slower and technical, especially off-road it makes perfect sense.

That being said in the hands of Joe Average it probably makes no difference which one you choose as long as you are comfortable and concentrating doing it.

Makes no sense being so focused (as many new riders are) on getting your knee down that you don’t pay attention to anything else and then in the process you are either slower, or worse you crash into something obvious.
 
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