New smart wall switch

acid_i3urn

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Hi guys

I recently bought new light switches for my house.

I got smart switches from Aliexpress and they finally came in, after 2 and a half months.

I tried to connect it and it does not seem to work, I wired correctly as far as i know.
I have attached a photo of the switch.

The house is quiet old so it has a blue, red and Yellow, Green wires.

If someone can let me know on how to wire this as the internet says that the switch should be the one without the neutral connection.
Or bypass the neutral connection inside that would help a lot.

Thanks :)
 

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SAguy

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Hi guys

I recently bought new light switches for my house.

I got smart switches from Aliexpress and they finally came in, after 2 and a half months.

I tried to connect it and it does not seem to work, I wired correctly as far as i know.
I have attached a photo of the switch.

The house is quiet old so it has a blue, red and Yellow, Green wires.

If someone can let me know on how to wire this as the internet says that the switch should be the one without the neutral connection.
Or bypass the neutral connection inside that would help a lot.

Thanks :)
What do you mean that it should be without Neutral connection? It shows N on the back so I'm assuming it needs Neutral in the light switch box.

If I assume that L is live incoming and L1 is Load.. then.

Blue wire in switch box goes to N
Red wire coming from db is L
Switched live wire going to light fitting is L1

Green/yellow is earth and can be bypassed

Send a pic of how you had it wired. Easiest way to test is to cut up an old extension lead and wire it into the lead and plug a lamp or something into the other end. Instead of mucking around in your light switches without knowing what the issue is.
 

Sinbad

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What do you mean that it should be without Neutral connection? It shows N on the back so I'm assuming it needs Neutral in the light switch box.

If I assume that L is live incoming and L1 is Load.. then.

Blue wire in switch box goes to N
Red wire coming from db is L
Switched live wire going to light fitting is L1

Green/yellow is earth and can be bypassed

Send a pic of how you had it wired. Easiest way to test is to cut up an old extension lead and wire it into the lead and plug a lamp or something into the other end. Instead of mucking around in your light switches without knowing what the issue is.
woah.
Blue and red are both phase colours in a 3 phase system.


Get an electrician to help you out here, seriously.
 

Steamy Tom

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What do you mean that it should be without Neutral connection? It shows N on the back so I'm assuming it needs Neutral in the light switch box.

If I assume that L is live incoming and L1 is Load.. then.

Blue wire in switch box goes to N
Red wire coming from db is L
Switched live wire going to light fitting is L1

Green/yellow is earth and can be bypassed

Send a pic of how you had it wired. Easiest way to test is to cut up an old extension lead and wire it into the lead and plug a lamp or something into the other end. Instead of mucking around in your light switches without knowing what the issue is.
blue in the switch is the load wire
 

SAguy

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woah.
Blue and red are both phase colours in a 3 phase system.


Get an electrician to help you out here, seriously.
Could be, or also that some old houses had blue for neutral (think that's UK wiring colours).
So your advice is better, get an electrician.

Although testing with an extension lead will at least tell you if your switch is broken, but don't muck about in the switch box.
 

Steamy Tom

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So blue could either be switched live, or part of 3 phase, or old school neutral...
Electrician time OP
electrician time agreed. there is no need for a neutral to be present in a regular switch, the neutral goes direct to the light switch, the switch breaks the live. the two wires in in the wall switch are the live from db and live to load. the other green/yellow is obviously earth.
 

SAguy

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electrician time agreed. there is no need for a neutral to be present in a regular switch, the neutral goes direct to the light switch, the switch breaks the live. the two wires in in the wall switch are the live from db and live to load. the other green/yellow is obviously earth.
I happened to have neutral in two of my light switches for some odd reason, which was great news because I wanted them there. It's scary how many discrepancies there are in home wiring, it's all up to the guy who rocks up to do the installation and then the CoC on the day...
 

Steamy Tom

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I happened to have neutral in two of my light switches for some odd reason, which was great news because I wanted them there. It's scary how many discrepancies there are in home wiring, it's all up to the guy who rocks up to do the installation and then the CoC on the day...
yeah, though a neutral in a light switch wouldn't even be seen in a coc as they wouldn't open it unless there was an issue, even then a random neutral there i doubt would be an issue. But like you say it isn't normal you happened to be lucky there.
 

Daruk

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blue in the switch is the load wire
Likely this - if it's a light switch you may not see neutral coming down the conduit to the switch. You will have to send your own neutral to your DB or join it to an existing neutral in the roof (make sure it's double insulated all the way - so in conduit plus it's own insulation or twin and earth). Join it in a box in the ceiling connected to the conduit to maintain double insulation on the entire segment.
 

acid_i3urn

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I have taken photos of my current switch and the new switch which is the only configuration that gives me an indication of power but does not turn the lights on or off.

I have attached the photos.
First one is the current light switch
Second one is the new one
Thrid is the led indicator on the switch that shows it has power in it.
 

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The_MAC

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woah.
Blue and red are both phase colours in a 3 phase system.


Get an electrician to help you out here, seriously.
I am pretty sure that OP has a single phase power supply, what do you mean by 3 phase?
 

Sinbad

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I am pretty sure that OP has a single phase power supply, what do you mean by 3 phase?
Hi guys

I recently bought new light switches for my house.

I got smart switches from Aliexpress and they finally came in, after 2 and a half months.

I tried to connect it and it does not seem to work, I wired correctly as far as i know.
I have attached a photo of the switch.

The house is quiet old so it has a blue, red and Yellow, Green wires.

If someone can let me know on how to wire this as the internet says that the switch should be the one without the neutral connection.
Or bypass the neutral connection inside that would help a lot.

Thanks :)
This part.
 

Daruk

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Joined
Jul 18, 2008
Messages
39,457
I have taken photos of my current switch and the new switch which is the only configuration that gives me an indication of power but does not turn the lights on or off.

I have attached the photos.
First one is the current light switch
Second one is the new one
Thrid is the led indicator on the switch that shows it has power in it.
OK, so red is live from DB, blue is switched live to load (light). You need to add black (neutral) and join it in the ceiling to the nearest neutral, but bear in mind you can't run cable up there without double insulation. How you do it depends on what it looks like up there.... i.e. does the conduit go into a box then to another segment of conduit, or does it run all the way to the DB?
 

Sinbad

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It was supposed to be typed Green/Yellow.

It's only 3 wires, Live, Neutral and Earth
Ah I see

Then yeah in that case, I'd say the blue is to the load.
OP needs to run a neutral for most smart switches to work.
 

The_MAC

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OK, so red is live from DB, blue is switched live to load (light). You need to add black (neutral) and join it in the ceiling to the nearest neutral, but bear in mind you can't run cable up there without double insulation. How you do it depends on what it looks like up there.... i.e. does the conduit go into a box then to another segment of conduit, or does it run all the way to the DB?
https://www.vesternet.com/resources/application-notes/apnt-23/

Put the Red to L, and the blue to L1

also depends how the wiring is in the ceiling
 

Daruk

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1554128175523.png
As The_MAC said, blue needs to move to L1 and you need an extra wire for N which connects to an existing N in the ceiling or runs all the way to the DB. Your old switch was nothing more than an isolator - it opens or closes a single circuit - so it doesn't need to be powered to do it's job. The new switch requires live + neutral to power itself as well as switched live to turn the light on and off. The light itself will have neutral (black) and live (from the blue wire in the switch). You may be able to join another black wire to the light's N and send it along the same path as the blue wire to the switch where it's connected to N on the switch. You will likely need a fish tape for that to help you pull the wire through the conduit.
 

SAguy

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View attachment 640468
As The_MAC said, blue needs to move to L1 and you need an extra wire for N which connects to an existing N in the ceiling or runs all the way to the DB. Your old switch was nothing more than an isolator - it opens or closes a single circuit - so it doesn't need to be powered to do it's job. The new switch requires live + neutral to power itself as well as switched live to turn the light on and off. The light itself will have neutral (black) and live (from the blue wire in the switch). You may be able to join another black wire to the light's N and send it along the same path as the blue wire to the switch where it's connected to N on the switch. You will likely need a fish tape for that to help you pull the wire through the conduit.
This.
 
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