Official Home Alarm Discussion Thread

Viva

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Thanks, this is helpful. After all the reading I've done, it seems that this choice is not make or break. Both frequencies work fine and as intended for the most part. I'll talk to the installers but I suspect it could go either way for our home.

433 MHz has better range than 868 MHz, but can possibly be more prone to jamming due to so many other wireless systems working at the same frequency (for example, garage door openers, cordless phones, etc). Paradox has a repeater that you can use if the range is an issue.

All of the sensors are available in both 433 and 868 Mhz.

The Paradox software (Babyware) has an option to select "jamming detection". I've been running my 434 MHz system for more than 3 years now without any major issues. I would have liked to go for 868 MHz, but our property is long and narrow, so I needed the extra range.
 

Brieuse

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Sep 15, 2008
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I have a question on remotes, perhaps someone can help.

We have Sherlotronics RX-150 receivers for our gate/garage/alarm. We lost a remote, and got an apparently identical 6 button replacement, also Sherlotronics. I have followed the procedure to link the remote to the gate receiver, but it doesn't work. The remote battery is fine, and I have even had the remote replaced. I can successfully link all of our other remotes (after I accidentally reset the receiver to default).

Any ideas?
Maybe it has the maximum total remotes programmed.
 

Brieuse

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It supposedly supports 30 or so...

I tried on the garage door receiver too, same result.
ok, then we can conclude that you are either doing something wrong or the the new remotes are no longer compatible.
 

Claymore

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ok, then we can conclude that you are either doing something wrong or the the new remotes are no longer compatible.
Yup. And I know I'm not doing it wrong because the same procedure works fine on the current remotes. So maybe two dodgy remotes in a row?
 

xrapidx

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My alarm isn't surviving load shedding, when we have it twice a day - I checked the battery yesterday near the end of the first bout of loadshedding, and it was 12.75v - if I understand this correctly, the battery is therefor healthy?

The second bout of load shedding in a day - and just about everything goes dead, triggering the alarm when power is restored.

It's a 12v 7a battery, which I assume isn't charging fast enough, what is the best solution, a bigger battery, or connecting up two batteries?

Our control panels are LCDs (TM50), which I assume are eating the batteries faster than usual...
 

alqassam

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Aug 11, 2014
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My alarm isn't surviving load shedding, when we have it twice a day - I checked the battery yesterday near the end of the first bout of loadshedding, and it was 12.75v - if I understand this correctly, the battery is therefor healthy?

The second bout of load shedding in a day - and just about everything goes dead, triggering the alarm when power is restored.

It's a 12v 7a battery, which I assume isn't charging fast enough, what is the best solution, a bigger battery, or connecting up two batteries?

Our control panels are LCDs (TM50), which I assume are eating the batteries faster than usual...
Maybe set the tm50 screen to switch off after 30seconds.

You can either go bigger battery or 2 batteries or go for a lithium battery
 

mtlost

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Dec 9, 2007
Messages
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My alarm isn't surviving load shedding, when we have it twice a day - I checked the battery yesterday near the end of the first bout of loadshedding, and it was 12.75v - if I understand this correctly, the battery is therefor healthy?

The second bout of load shedding in a day - and just about everything goes dead, triggering the alarm when power is restored.

It's a 12v 7a battery, which I assume isn't charging fast enough, what is the best solution, a bigger battery, or connecting up two batteries?

Our control panels are LCDs (TM50), which I assume are eating the batteries faster than usual...
The chargers in these units charge rather slow and two slots per day will drain the battery because there isn't sufficient time to recharge between load shedding slots, a bigger battery without a better charger will not help. Maybe look at one of these, I'm using one as backup for Router, wifi, some raspberry pi servers etc. and it's working great.


Edit......I know the MG5050 has two options for charging current, maybe check that first. THis might make it possible to add another 7.2Ah battery in parallel.
 

xrapidx

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Feb 16, 2007
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Maybe set the tm50 screen to switch off after 30seconds.

You can either go bigger battery or 2 batteries or go for a lithium battery
Done this with the LCD panels already - just think everything is overloaded, we're using all 32 zones - with only about 6 wireless on their own power supply.

I have a range extender in the garage on its own battery - which is dead, drops to 10.5v when the power goes out - so I need to order a new battery anyway, was thinking of doing something with the panels battery, and moving its current battery to the range extender.

----

This is what I have powering the panel - little difficult to replace - its in one room, and the panel is in another.

Take it that's 2.2A to 2.5A?
 

riscbroker

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Sep 29, 2006
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My alarm isn't surviving load shedding, when we have it twice a day - I checked the battery yesterday near the end of the first bout of loadshedding, and it was 12.75v - if I understand this correctly, the battery is therefor healthy?

The second bout of load shedding in a day - and just about everything goes dead, triggering the alarm when power is restored.

It's a 12v 7a battery, which I assume isn't charging fast enough, what is the best solution, a bigger battery, or connecting up two batteries?

Our control panels are LCDs (TM50), which I assume are eating the batteries faster than usual...
Something is wrong here - a battery at 12.75 volts is pretty much 100% charged. If it's surviving the first round of loadshedding and maintaining this voltage, then dying during the second round (presumably of similar period to the first) it may be that it has a dead cell or other problem. Did you check the voltage at the end of the second round?

BatteryChart shows charged status.gif
 

xrapidx

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Something is wrong here - a battery at 12.75 volts is pretty much 100% charged. If it's surviving the first round of loadshedding and maintaining this voltage, then dying during the second round (presumably of similar period to the first) it may be that it has a dead cell or other problem. Did you check the voltage at the end of the second round?

View attachment 779838
Second round has so far been early morning (2am) - twice now - its set off the alarm when it comes back, and only seems to be when our two slots are close together.

Yesterday we had 16:00-18:30, and then again 00:00-02:30. I checked the voltage at 18:00, don't think its an issue with the multimeter, although, it is old and cheap - because it got the voltage on the dead extenders battery correct, I checked each multiple times during the 16:00-18:30 slot.
 

riscbroker

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Does the battery/system have the same load during both outages, or is there a higher load during the second round?

If the load is the same then you need to check the battery voltage just prior to the second round starting.
 

xrapidx

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Does the battery/system have the same load during both outages, or is there a higher load during the second round?

If the load is the same then you need to check the battery voltage just prior to the second round starting.
It should have the same load - I checked the voltage just before bed last night at around 9:30pm - and it was 13.3v with incoming power.
 

Steamy Tom

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Done this with the LCD panels already - just think everything is overloaded, we're using all 32 zones - with only about 6 wireless on their own power supply.

I have a range extender in the garage on its own battery - which is dead, drops to 10.5v when the power goes out - so I need to order a new battery anyway, was thinking of doing something with the panels battery, and moving its current battery to the range extender.

----

This is what I have powering the panel - little difficult to replace - its in one room, and the panel is in another.

Take it that's 2.2A to 2.5A?
32 zones... what kind of mansion is this
 

Gaz{M}

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Feb 9, 2005
Messages
6,054
Just get an 18ah Gel battery. It costs about the same as 2 x 9ah.
My alarm isn't surviving load shedding, when we have it twice a day - I checked the battery yesterday near the end of the first bout of loadshedding, and it was 12.75v - if I understand this correctly, the battery is therefor healthy?

The second bout of load shedding in a day - and just about everything goes dead, triggering the alarm when power is restored.

It's a 12v 7a battery, which I assume isn't charging fast enough, what is the best solution, a bigger battery, or connecting up two batteries?

Our control panels are LCDs (TM50), which I assume are eating the batteries faster than usual...
Did you use a volt meter on the battery terminals? Was the battery disconnected from the alarm? If not, you are measuing the charging voltage and not the battery voltage, surely?

Anyway, I don't trust the battery voltage reading as a good measure of health.

Get yourself a nice 18ah 12V Gel and see if that helps, they are around R700.
 

Steamy Tom

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Jan 23, 2019
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Just get an 18ah Gel battery. It costs about the same as 2 x 9ah.


Did you use a volt meter on the battery terminals? Was the battery disconnected from the alarm? If not, you are measuing the charging voltage and not the battery voltage, surely?

Anyway, I don't trust the battery voltage reading as a good measure of health.

Get yourself a nice 18ah 12V Gel and see if that helps, they are around R700.
good points here.. voltage needs to be measured off the charger and pref with some rest time.
 
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