RCT MP-T1000S Inverter trolley

[leon.davibe]

Just wanted to give everyone some feedback. I have the RCT 2kva system and like many other my original gel batteries only lasted about 8 months before it did not make the 2 hours loadshedding.

So after reading up on this problem, speaking to the manufacturer and to the manufacturer of the Lifepo4 battery I decided to change over from gel to Lifepo4.

I bought two of these Lalela Lifepo4 batteries from Geewiz (Just to add their service was out of this world. Geewiz responded to all my questions and also confirmed that the batteries would work in the RCT unit)

Lalela Lithium LifePO4 Battery - 12V / 80Ah / 1024Wh (2 Year Warranty)

Nominal Voltage: 12.8V Nominal Capacity: [email protected] Energy: 1024Wh Internal Resistance: ≤50mΩ Cycle Life: 2000 Cycles at 100% DOD, 3500 Cycles at 80% DOD, 6000 Cycles at 50% DOD @ 0.2C Charging/Discharging, Until 70% Capacity Cell Rating 1C Self Discharge ≤3.5% per month at 25°C Max Charging...

www.geewiz.co.za

The swop over of batteries was easy and once I turned the unit on the battery life was showing 80% on the RCT unit. After a few hours is was up to 100%.

It's been about 3 months now after the installation and I'm super happy with these batteries, after 2 hours of loadshedding (running 3 TV, DStv decoder and some lights) the RCT unit shows battery life at 89% once the power is restored.

I'm so happy that I'm planning on replacing my Rct 1Kva unit over to Lalela also once that battery dies.

I would not put much stock in the 89% , estimating soc accurately via voltage is almost impossible on lifepo4

Especially with sag in use or charge voltage lift

 

[MattyCT]

Hi, I had no problems since I did the change over. I'm very happy with the lithium battery. I don't even notice the 2 hour loudsheding when I watch TV or play games. The TV also runs good with the 4 hour long loudsheding, haven't tried the 4 hour gaming yet. The RCT trolley battery alarm didn't go of one's since the lithium battery was installed

Hey there.

I'm outrageously amateur at wiring circuits for this sort of stuff. Would it be possible for you to maybe explain to me how I would go about adding the fans? Like, what wire goes where etc. If not that's cool, might get someone else to assist - problem is actually finding someone. Thanks.

 

[Reboot - MDK]

Hey there.

I'm outrageously amateur at wiring circuits for this sort of stuff. Would it be possible for you to maybe explain to me how I would go about adding the fans? Like, what wire goes where etc. If not that's cool, might get someone else to assist - problem is actually finding someone. Thanks.

Hi MattyCT

On the photo you can see where I connected the 2 x 12v fans to. If you have a multimeter just make sure the output is 12v on those 2 points

 

[MattyCT]

Hi MattyCT

On the photo you can see where I connected the 2 x 12v fans to. If you have a multimeter just make sure the output is 12v on those 2 points
View attachment 1650331

Thanks!

May be a stupid question but how did you wire the fan that's on the exterior? I mean, doesn't it get caught going through the existing vent/when you wanna' pull the cover off?

Also, should I disconnect the entire battery before doing this or can I just take the top cover part off and do the operation?

Thanks again..

 

[Reboot - MDK]

Thanks!

May be a stupid question but how did you wire the fan that's on the exterior? I mean, doesn't it get caught going through the existing vent/when you wanna' pull the cover off?

Also, should I disconnect the entire battery before doing this or can I just take the top cover part off and do the operation?

Thanks again..

Hi MattyCT

I cant remember if I switch the trolly off and switch the battery off at the back. To be save just switch every things off before you add the fans.

If I remember correctly the fans get there power from the battery in that connection i made.

The cable of the van on the outside is long so that i can remove the pannel with ease and its on the back side of the battery, so the pannel on the side of the battery connectors i can remove with out worrying of damaging the wire.

 

[FokFrikkie]

Is this post stil

You need a panel with a lower cell count it affects voltage

Edit fictional panel sizes as examples


ie pay attention to the vmp (voltage max power made at) not just the watts
Ie if you get

25v 300w panel that would supply 12a, would get you 12A*14.4v= 172.8w of charging power

and a 300w18v panel, that would be 16.66A panel,would net you 16.66*14.4v=239.9W charging power

When the battery is flat less naturally

So if you can't get 360w of lower voltage panels you could parralel 2 lower wattage panels

ie keeping voltage lower means less loss of panel output (applies to pwm controllers)

That way you get more of the rated power of the panel you pay for

ie you want a panel with a vmp closer to the battery charger voltage ie 15-18v
The manual states less than 25v be strict on that

If you have just one string you don't need a fuse just a decent quality isolator

If you have parralel strings you need a fuse equal to the fuse rating on the panel sticker , to keep strings seperate in case of a fault on one string

Edit:
Normally you can add more watts than rated the controller just doesn't use it

ie you hit peak charging output earlier and sustain it later instead of just having a thin peak mid day

Just never exceed the voltage the controller allows, that pops contro

You need a panel with a lower cell count it affects voltage

Edit fictional panel sizes as examples


ie pay attention to the vmp (voltage max power made at) not just the watts
Ie if you get

25v 300w panel that would supply 12a, would get you 12A*14.4v= 172.8w of charging power

and a 300w18v panel, that would be 16.66A panel,would net you 16.66*14.4v=239.9W charging power

When the battery is flat less naturally

So if you can't get 360w of lower voltage panels you could parralel 2 lower wattage panels

ie keeping voltage lower means less loss of panel output (applies to pwm controllers)

That way you get more of the rated power of the panel you pay for

ie you want a panel with a vmp closer to the battery charger voltage ie 15-18v
The manual states less than 25v be strict on that

If you have just one string you don't need a fuse just a decent quality isolator

If you have parralel strings you need a fuse equal to the fuse rating on the panel sticker , to keep strings seperate in case of a fault on one string

Edit:
Normally you can add more watts than rated the controller just doesn't use it

ie you hit peak charging output earlier and sustain it later instead of just having a thin peak mid day

Just never exceed the voltage the controller allows, that pops controllers

Is this post still active ?

 

[Mackymclaren]

Watched this last night.
Bulk seems to be 14.4v Float seems to be 13.8v
The small slow fan only blows on the inverter heatsink. No direct cooling on the charge unit (at 19min of vid)

What an awesome video, thanks so much. I had a Senry lithium battery in my unit for about 8 months now, was working like a charm but suddenly today I realised the unit is completely dead. Upon investigation I note the battery ran flat. I made sure the unit is on setting 01 and I note the charge output to the battery is only 7.5V DC.. Do you think my charger busted in the unit?

 

[leon.davibe]

Is this post stil



Is this post still active ?

Missed the notifications it seems

 

[leon.davibe]

What an awesome video, thanks so much. I had a Senry lithium battery in my unit for about 8 months now, was working like a charm but suddenly today I realised the unit is completely dead. Upon investigation I note the battery ran flat. I made sure the unit is on setting 01 and I note the charge output to the battery is only 7.5V DC.. Do you think my charger busted in the unit?

I would say just a jump start is needed

Often the charging doesn't happen if the battery is in protection mode

ie the inverter is waiting to see a battery and the battery is waiting to see a charger

The jump start satisfies both getting battery out of protection mode and waking up the charger

 

[wingnut771]

I would say just a jump start is needed

Often the charging doesn't happen if the battery is in protection mode

ie the inverter is waiting to see a battery and the battery is waiting to see a charger

The jump start satisfies both getting battery out of protection mode and waking up the charger

How did the battery get low? There is no loadshedding.

 

[Mackymclaren]

How did the battery get low? There is no loadsheddin

The prepaid meter ran out and we did not realise..

 

[wingnut771]

The prepaid meter ran out and we did not realise..

Ah, then you just need to jump start it like when your car battery is flat. Just get an alarm/gate battery and parallel the batteries for a second or 2 which should wake the bms up then the RCT will see the battery again and start charging.

 

[leon.davibe]

Ah, then you just need to jump start it like when your car battery is flat. Just get an alarm/gate battery and parallel the batteries for a second or 2 which should wake the bms up then the RCT will see the battery again and start charging.

Or a dumb battery charger

 

[Sallows]

Hi All, have taken the plunge aswell. I have been running this for the last 3 weeks.

I have noticed that the ups indicates that it has not stopped charging which is strange since we have not had loadshedding. The light on the battery indicator has also turned red. Have emailed red pole about this twice with no reply.

Any ideas what could be causing this?

 

[leon.davibe]

View attachment 1721809
View attachment 1721811
Hi All, have taken the plunge aswell. I have been running this for the last 3 weeks.

I have noticed that the ups indicates that it has not stopped charging which is strange since we have not had loadshedding. The light on the battery indicator has also turned red. Have emailed red pole about this twice with no reply.

Any ideas what could be causing this?
View attachment 1721819

Depends on the voltage settings
Lithium voltage to hit full tends to be a bit higher

So depends on the behaviour of the charger

If it has the voltage that it switches to CV mode a bit low for a lifepo4 it will stretch out the last leg of charging

What voltage does it push to on the charge cycle

If for instance the charger is a float full type charger ie it just applies a float voltage and while the battery voltage is lower the batteries tend to sponge up more amps and higher voltage less amps then yes the charging will likely take what feels like forever to do the last bit of charging

 

[Finhobbyist]

View attachment 1721809
View attachment 1721811
Hi All, have taken the plunge aswell. I have been running this for the last 3 weeks.

I have noticed that the ups indicates that it has not stopped charging which is strange since we have not had loadshedding. The light on the battery indicator has also turned red. Have emailed red pole about this twice with no reply.

Any ideas what could be causing this?
View attachment 1721819

There is a video review earlier in this thread; I think the red light issue is mentioned.

 

[Sallows]

Thank you! The video assisted in resolving the issue. Will leave a bread trail incase anyone makes a similar mistake:

Turns out I must've accidentally switched to mode: 3 while finishing the battery installation.

The screen is very deceptive as the diagram indicates it is getting AC power in and charging despite just discharging the battery.

Switching back to mode: 1 started charging the battery ones again and after a few hours, completed the charge cycle to 100%.