SA smart plugs that can be flashed with Tasmota

ebendl

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Sep 27, 2004
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I opened up one of the Ultralinks and I must say it's very well made considering how I struggled to get in but more so how it's put together.

Going to be some serious work to serial flash that.
What was the process to open it? Just cut it open? Since I can't see any screws.

And to put it back together?

I had one that I tuya-converted to Tasmota, but it is going wonky now. Reboots every couple of minutes with a software watchdog exception. Unable to flash it to a newer of Tasmota, so I might have to flash it the old fashioned way.
 

SauRoNZA

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What was the process to open it? Just cut it open? Since I can't see any screws.

And to put it back together?

I had one that I tuya-converted to Tasmota, but it is going wonky now. Reboots every couple of minutes with a software watchdog exception. Unable to flash it to a newer of Tasmota, so I might have to flash it the old fashioned way.

Yeah pretty much need a prying tool to get into the very tight gap and then get the clips to release.

But I’ll warn that once done it’s never been quite as tight and tends to slip the cover off easily if handled wrong, which is why I never did the rest of them.

Need to have a look at local tuya now that I’ve decided not to move away from Alexa, in favour of Siri.
 

ebendl

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Yeah pretty much need a prying tool to get into the very tight gap and then get the clips to release.

But I’ll warn that once done it’s never been quite as tight and tends to slip the cover off easily if handled wrong, which is why I never did the rest of them.

Need to have a look at local tuya now that I’ve decided not to move away from Alexa, in favour of Siri.

Thanks. I'm still trying to see if I can save it using software only but I can't help but wonder if it isn't some component that's damaged and causing it to reboot.

What other plugs are recommended to buy? I see loads on Takealot (AC-DC now also has one, and Broadlink, and Vizia) but not really Bneta, Qualitel or Ultralink in Stock.
 

ebendl

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Flashed a plug yesterday. Some nasty soldering later, it is running tasmota 9.3.1...still need to calibrate it.

87d175a05238de8fa0fa81798f270445.jpg
Which plug was this? The Builders one?
 

SauRoNZA

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Thanks. I'm still trying to see if I can save it using software only but I can't help but wonder if it isn't some component that's damaged and causing it to reboot.

What other plugs are recommended to buy? I see loads on Takealot (AC-DC now also has one, and Broadlink, and Vizia) but not really Bneta, Qualitel or Ultralink in Stock.

Now that you mentioned it one of my 5 plugs just went and **** the bed all by itself and after numerous resets on original firmware no luck bringing it back.
 

ebendl

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Mmm, I wonder if it might have some power supply issues. This one is usually switched on but doesn't do a lot of hard word -- only runs the washing machine perhaps once a day.

I also noticed that when it is on it's power measurements are all over the place -- even without a load. So it does seems as if the hardware may be shot.
 

Tinuva

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Feb 10, 2005
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Thanks. I'm still trying to see if I can save it using software only but I can't help but wonder if it isn't some component that's damaged and causing it to reboot.

What other plugs are recommended to buy? I see loads on Takealot (AC-DC now also has one, and Broadlink, and Vizia) but not really Bneta, Qualitel or Ultralink in Stock.
I know where a few bneta plugs are available. If you are interested, shoot me a pm.
 

Tinuva

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Feb 10, 2005
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Just received a call, 1x CPT branch received stock of the qualitel I ordered and they will deliver tomorrow.

2 minutes later received 2x bneta plugs...also ordered while thinking the qualitel ones will never arrive.

This is the box they arrived in :unsure:

IMG_20210422_150838.jpeg
 

Tinuva

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And they both tasmotized the hard way...both being PSK02 tuya firmware sadly.

I made a mess on the ground pad on the last plug. So had to do some hunting where else I can find ground.

IMG_20210422_162850.jpeg

Found this easy spot and was able to flash it!

IMG_20210422_162808.jpeg

Lucky I am!

First one is calibrated, just doing the 2nd now then they can get installed.
 

Tinuva

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Feb 10, 2005
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Heads up.

The R220 qualitel plugs from builders can't be flashed with tasmota without replacing the board.

It has a wb2s chip and you will need to find stock of the tywe2s chip to get it on to tasmota.

This is the 16a power metering version.

07cd12f19ea0bb8192b21496ce8bd2fd.jpg


ca3fdee2bab9fe2ce1c3146ab68bd354.jpg


923ed3b1a251236fe97f5f07033f04d7.jpg


5c6ee847be6975a3bd7e3c4ed74afc75.jpg
 

Tinuva

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Now I am really annoyed.

So R220 for the plug was a bargain. Although a mission to get the stock.
Now I have the plugs...and it has a non flashable chip on #(*$(#)(@SA*()FDA.
o_Oo_Oo_Oo_Oo_Oo_Oo_Oo_Oo_O

This tywe2s chip costs another R100 without shipping and you can _only_ find it on aliexpress. Another :mad: moment.

Bleh, if I knew this, I would buy more of the Bneta plugs and be done with it. Ohwell will wait a few more months and get my soldering skills up. Need new tips and then there is this heat gun station I am not happy about.
 

chickenbeef

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Now I am really annoyed.

So R220 for the plug was a bargain. Although a mission to get the stock.
Now I have the plugs...and it has a non flashable chip on #(*$(#)(@SA*()FDA.
o_Oo_Oo_Oo_Oo_Oo_Oo_Oo_Oo_O

This tywe2s chip costs another R100 without shipping and you can _only_ find it on aliexpress. Another :mad: moment.

Bleh, if I knew this, I would buy more of the Bneta plugs and be done with it. Ohwell will wait a few more months and get my soldering skills up. Need new tips and then there is this heat gun station I am not happy about.
Lol, I just joined the club. I initially ordered 4 from Builders Warehouse City and they cancelled my order after 4 weeks due to no stock.

Saw it in stock at Constantia Berg last week so placed the order with them. Drove all the way there over the weekend from northern suburbs to pickup the order lol :crying:
 

Tinuva

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Lol, I just joined the club. I initially ordered 4 from Builders Warehouse City and they cancelled my order after 4 weeks due to no stock.

Saw it in stock at Constantia Berg last week so placed the order with them. Drove all the way there over the weekend from northern suburbs to pickup the order lol :crying:
Oh I was too lazy. I let them courier it from Constantia Berg to me in the Northern Suburbs. Its almost a 45min-50min drive. Decided the courier price is worth that time,

Anyways, not happy but now it means I need to up soldering skills. I need new soldering tips for my Wellerman.
 

Sparkz0629

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Jan 7, 2010
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And they both tasmotized the hard way...both being PSK02 tuya firmware sadly.

I made a mess on the ground pad on the last plug. So had to do some hunting where else I can find ground.

View attachment 1056891

Found this easy spot and was able to flash it!

View attachment 1056893

Lucky I am!

First one is calibrated, just doing the 2nd now then they can get installed.
How do you calibrate it? Struggling to understand the process.... What appliance did you use?
 

Tinuva

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How do you calibrate it? Struggling to understand the process.... What appliance did you use?
I bought a 70w rated halogen bulb from PNP.
As for the process, I mostly streamlined it now.

So you can read this: https://tasmota.github.io/docs/Power-Monitoring-Calibration/

But, in short what I do is this:
1. install tamper monkey in Chrome.
2. install this script into tampermonkey: https://github.com/arendst/Tasmota/issues/5484
3. modify this script to whatever you will use. For example my bulb is rated 70w at 240v. So I had to put this into the script. The calibration is done based on this and the readings it get, real time.
4. have a way to read your current voltage from eskom as accurate as possible. I read it from my solar inverter.
5. Run these commands on the tasmota device in the console
Code:
VoltageSet 233.3
PowerSet 70.0
Backlog VoltRes 3; WattRes 3; CurrentSet 300.171526586620926
ps. VoltageSet is the voltage you read from your meter. So sometimes I type in 235.2 or 237.8 depending on whatever eskom is pushing into the house or if you on solar what the inverter is pushing into your house.
The other commands are also in the script telling you what to do.
pps. You need to work out the CurrentSet according to whatever you are using. There is a formula in the script.
6. I then click on the calibrate button and wait for it to do it's thing. Usually done within less than 2-3 minutes.
 

zarf

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Joined
Nov 17, 2020
Messages
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I bought a 70w rated halogen bulb from PNP.
As for the process, I mostly streamlined it now.


Code:
VoltageSet 233.3
PowerSet 70.0
Backlog VoltRes 3; WattRes 3; CurrentSet 300.171526586620926
I guess that's better than nothing, but I'd be wary of placing too much faith in the 70W bulb truly drawing a consistent 70W. I use an old 100W incandescent bulb in my Tasmota calibration workflow, but I use a pair of multimeters to measure the voltage and the bulb's current draw. I've learnt two things about the bulb from batch-calibrating several Tasmotised devices:
  1. The 100W bulb I'm using is actually closer to 85W
  2. The current draw, and hence power, drift slowly downwards as the bulb heats up, so if the bulb was using 85W when I calibrated the first plug, it could be down to 80W by the 10th plug.
Assuming that your 70W rated lamp really draws 70W means that your power figures will be plausible, but only as accurate as your particular bulb happens to be. For consistency from one plug to another, you probably also want to ensure that you give your bulb some time to cool down between calibrating plugs if you're doing several of them.
 

Tinuva

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Feb 10, 2005
Messages
10,128
I guess that's better than nothing, but I'd be wary of placing too much faith in the 70W bulb truly drawing a consistent 70W. I use an old 100W incandescent bulb in my Tasmota calibration workflow, but I use a pair of multimeters to measure the voltage and the bulb's current draw. I've learnt two things about the bulb from batch-calibrating several Tasmotised devices:
  1. The 100W bulb I'm using is actually closer to 85W
  2. The current draw, and hence power, drift slowly downwards as the bulb heats up, so if the bulb was using 85W when I calibrated the first plug, it could be down to 80W by the 10th plug.
Assuming that your 70W rated lamp really draws 70W means that your power figures will be plausible, but only as accurate as your particular bulb happens to be. For consistency from one plug to another, you probably also want to ensure that you give your bulb some time to cool down between calibrating plugs if you're doing several of them.
Thanks for the tip. I at most calibrated 2 devices in a row in the past. But I do have 2 of these bulbs (came in pack of 2) so I guess I can swap them around if I do many devices in a row.

That said, I noticed this 70w bulb is rated 70w at 240v, so with eskom being lower most of the time, it gets read closer to 66w from what I have seen.
 
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