Solar related Advice needed (sunsynk 5kw)

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mcpizza99

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Hi all.

I am grateful to have a 5kw inverter and a 5.3kw battery.
Currently, my geyser and stove are not connected to the inverter.

I plan on installing panels in the future and would like to understand a few things better.

Apparently, the inverter has Max. Continuous AC Pass-through of 35Aa.c
Is it correct that i should connect the geyser to the inverter on "pass-through"?
(That way, it will allow the panels to charge my geyser. I was thinking of changing my 3kw element to a 2kw)

Also, would it be wise to connect both the stove and geyser via a contactor?

I also have a query regarding the generator. It is currently wired to the home - not via the inverter. I would like the generator(5kva) to charge my inverter. Is this advisable?


What i want to do: gain max use from the sun and inverter. (& use the generator to charge the batteries)

What i want to avoid: I really dont want to trip the inverter and i dont want to overload the batteries/inverter

Any advise would be appreciated

PS: if you can recommend any solar installers that can also do the electrical work required (Centurion, Pretoria), please drop me a message


edited for generator content
 
Last edited:
The 5kw Sunsynk inverter has exactly this feature and it can be achieved in 2 ways.
1. The Aux port (aka smart load) - someone else can give more details as I read conflicting reports, but overall seems tricky to get right.
2. Non-essential loads can be setup if the CT is installed correctly (seems like a common error or misunderstanding amongst installers). This will allow the inverter to use PV to power loads that run while the grid is present, that are not backed up.

These are some of the features that you're paying for with a true hybrid inverter.

Both options would require some wiring work. So best find a reputable installer that can explain both options clearly to you.
 
mcpizza99 said:
Hi all.

I am grateful to have a 5kw inverter and a 5.3kw battery.
Currently, my geyser and stove are not connected to the inverter.

I plan on installing panels in the future and would like to understand a few things better.

Apparently, the inverter has Max. Continuous AC Pass-through of 35Aa.c
Is it correct that i should connect the geyser to the inverter on "pass-through"?
(That way, it will allow the panels to charge my geyser. I was thinking of changing my 3kw element to a 2kw)

Also, would it be wise to connect both the stove and geyser via a contactor?

I also have a query regarding the generator. It is currently wired to the home - not via the inverter. I would like the generator(5kva) to charge my inverter. Is this advisable?


What i want to do: gain max use from the sun and inverter. (& use the generator to charge the batteries)

What i want to avoid: I really dont want to trip the inverter and i dont want to overload the batteries/inverter

Any advise would be appreciated

PS: if you can recommend any solar installers that can also do the electrical work required (Centurion, Pretoria), please drop me a message


edited for generator content
Click to expand...

One of the Gauteng based forum members should be able to direct you to someone competent to configure and connect everything correctly.

A hybrid inverter (Sunsunk/Deye/etc) is designed to do precisely what you're envisaging above. The only part I'm not clear on is how the generator fits into the mix if you're using the Aux port to send power to the non-essentials when not loadshedding (by design, when loadshedding, no power is able to be fed to the non-essential side), since, iirc, a Generator is usually connected to that Aux port.
 
I used an "expert" installer listed on sunsynks website.
Anyway, I plan on using another installer for the solar. Someone who can understand and guide me properly.

I have learnt much since I have started this journey, and have learnt more since researching the solar aspect.
 
SCENARIO:
Eskom is down after sunset, batteries are running low. I was hoping to charge the batteries via the generator, then use the batteries until sunrise.


I really appreciate the advise thus far
 
My view is, with a 5kw inverter to leave heavy loads like geyser and oven on non-essential.
This will ensure you don't go over the limit during LS, still use PV to power them when available, and not drain batteries unnecessarily. And also still have the aux port available for a generator. Downside is they're not available when grid isn't available, but in most cases that's something you probably will have to live with.
The other option is to use a geyser timer and keep it on essential, but I would still not recommend this with only a 5kw inverter. With an 8kw it will require some micro management, and there are some rather complex-looking automation setups that cater for the best option in all cases.

On the generator piece, it can be connected in multiple ways. Directly to inverter, or replicating the grid, or even both (this is the option I'm looking at).
 
I am happy to leave them on non-essential. That they can be used when the sun or the grid is available, is fine.


I like that the generator can be connected like that. How would i describe that to the electrician though?
 
He should understand the concepts rather easily.
Just mention you want to be able to use the generator for charging batteries as well as powering the geyser if need be.
 
mcpizza99 said:
I am happy to leave them on non-essential.
Click to expand...
Cool. The problem comes in when you realise that you cannot hear water / cook food because Eskom is down. This is merely a nuisance during stage 1 and 2, but becomes an issue at higher LS levels.
mcpizza99 said:
That they can be used when the sun or the grid is available, is fine.
Click to expand...
Not when sun or grid is available, only when the grid is available. The hybrid SS can only export PV generated power to the CT coil when the grid is available, this is a condition of its certification.
It may be wiser therefore to reduce the geyser element wattage and put it on a timer, that arrangement is far more flexible. The stove too, you need to make judicious use of the plates, or throw it out in favour of a gas model.
My one 5K SS has everything on essentials, on a second one in another home I moved the geyser back to essentials a year ago already, because it was simply far too frustrating to see PV power going to waste. The non-essential bus is a great concept in countries with reliable power supplies, in SA with stage 6-8 load shedding it is like Eskom, simply useless.

Another option is to put the geyser on the Aux port / bus, the so-called Smart Load, which you can configure to dump all unused PV to, regardless of grid status.

mcpizza99 said:
I like that the generator can be connected like that. How would i describe that to the electrician though?
Click to expand...
You need to decide whether to use the grid feed (with a changeover switch) or the Aux port for the genny (max 4K). Ideally you should get a genny that is beefier than the inverter, because it will want to service loads and charge battery at the same time, and that will potentially draw more than 5.5K. You can set it up to "shave" the maximum load though, just that it will take longer to charge batteries.
The electrician should be familiar with the Sunsynk and its capabilities, and make recommendations that suits your usage.
 
Can the Aux use grid-only to power the loads on it when the conditions are not met to use battery in the evenings?
Thinking geyser run in the early AM, use battery if x% SOC but if not then just use grid.
 
Tradezzz said:
Can the Aux use grid-only to power the loads on it when the conditions are not met to use battery in the evenings?
Thinking geyser run in the early AM, use battery if x% SOC but if not then just use grid.
Click to expand...
If you tick the grid box on aux then it will bypass battery and other requirements
 
RonSwanson said:
Cool. The problem comes in when you realise that you cannot hear water / cook food because Eskom is down. This is merely a nuisance during stage 1 and 2, but becomes an issue at higher LS levels.

Not when sun or grid is available, only when the grid is available. The hybrid SS can only export PV generated power to the CT coil when the grid is available, this is a condition of its certification.
It may be wiser therefore to reduce the geyser element wattage and put it on a timer, that arrangement is far more flexible. The stove too, you need to make judicious use of the plates, or throw it out in favour of a gas model.
My one 5K SS has everything on essentials, on a second one in another home I moved the geyser back to essentials a year ago already, because it was simply far too frustrating to see PV power going to waste. The non-essential bus is a great concept in countries with reliable power supplies, in SA with stage 6-8 load shedding it is like Eskom, simply useless.

Another option is to put the geyser on the Aux port / bus, the so-called Smart Load, which you can configure to dump all unused PV to, regardless of grid status.


You need to decide whether to use the grid feed (with a changeover switch) or the Aux port for the genny (max 4K). Ideally you should get a genny that is beefier than the inverter, because it will want to service loads and charge battery at the same time, and that will potentially draw more than 5.5K. You can set it up to "shave" the maximum load though, just that it will take longer to charge batteries.
The electrician should be familiar with the Sunsynk and its capabilities, and make recommendations that suits your usage.
Click to expand...


I have gas so i should be mostly okay (only the oven is electric)

The hybrid SS can only export PV generated power to the CT coil when the grid is available, this is a condition of its certification.
Click to expand...
does this mean that if there is no eskom, i cannot send pv to the geyser and stove?

Another option is to put the geyser on the Aux port / bus, the so-called Smart Load, which you can configure to dump all unused PV to, regardless of grid status.
Click to expand...
this might be better as it seems to bypass the above restriction. it will probably affect the way the genny connects though


You need to decide whether to use the grid feed (with a changeover switch) or the Aux port for the genny (max 4K). Ideally you should get a genny that is beefier than the inverter, because it will want to service loads and charge battery at the same time, and that will potentially draw more than 5.5K.
Click to expand...
my genny is 5.5k (basically the same as my inverter)
 
mcpizza99 said:
I have gas so i should be mostly okay (only the oven is electric)


does this mean that if there is no eskom, i cannot send pv to the geyser and stove?
Click to expand...
Unfortunately yes.
mcpizza99 said:
this might be better as it seems to bypass the above restriction. it will probably affect the way the genny connects though
Click to expand...
Yes, if you use the Aux port to power something, you won't be able to use it for a genny or microinverter. In that case you can always install a changeover switch on the grid side, and have the genny power the grid feed.
mcpizza99 said:
my genny is 5.5k (basically the same as my inverter)
Click to expand...
You can still get away with a small genny like that using peak shaving on the grid side. Just need to watch the loads and battery charging rates, to keep the overall load under about 4K or so. Remember that 5K gennys are usually 5kVA which, due to its power factor, drops to about 4kW under load, and if you pull 5kW the genny will stutter and die.
1686052134115.png
You can also use the system timer:
1686052309834.png
 
RonSwanson said:
Unfortunately yes.

Yes, if you use the Aux port to power something, you won't be able to use it for a genny or microinverter. In that case you can always install a changeover switch on the grid side, and have the genny power the grid feed.

You can still get away with a small genny like that using peak shaving on the grid side. Just need to watch the loads and battery charging rates, to keep the overall load under about 4K or so. Remember that 5K gennys are usually 5kVA which, due to its power factor, drops to about 4kW under load, and if you pull 5kW the genny will stutter and die.
View attachment 1536489
You can also use the system timer:
View attachment 1536493
Click to expand...
thank you for the excellent advice.
 
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