Stop what you're doing right now and take a photo

Electric

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And the obligatory picture of my puppy's balls :D

2hnyue1.jpg
 

Tun@

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But where is the Tuna, Tun@? :whistling:

Hiding under those red hatches;)

Guys that dolphin pic of mine,link I feel the whole image was let down with the unsharp splash area back by his tail.
Was shot with a D800 / 28-300mm 3.5-5.6 lens / 1/800s/ISO 500/F7.1 at 92mm.
My thoughts are i will in the future need to increase the shutter speed more to lose that softness,but i'm also now wondering if it was perhaps a AF let down - there was no focus point back there.(Was using 51 point AF-S) Focus looks fine further forward ,you can see the ripples of water on the dolphins back under & forward of his dorsal fin....Taken as a single shot - not burst mode.
Those shots don't come everyday & i'm curious to get to the bottom of why,being held held on a rolling boat already offers plenty no keepers.
Why am i reading that a F2.8 lens has better/faster AF regardless of aperture used..i don't grasp the theory behind that.
Curious on what you guys think if anyone has any input.
 
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APoc184

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I'm not sure about the faster auto focus on F2.8 lenses.

As a rule of thumb I try to never go below 1/1250s with my sport photos. Usually freezes everything in the frame unless there is some freakishly fast action. I would rather boost my ISO up another stop and make sure the action is still. Your camera should also be able to do Auto-ISO where you can set a minimum shutter speed for such situations.

But I really think you are too hard on yourself. That pic of the dolphin is fine. Sometimes with these images it actually works a bit better with a slight motion blur. It stays more natural for me then. If you understand what I'm trying to say. I like it just like it is.
 

Tun@

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Ok that 1/1250 gives me a feel that i'll need to be shooting faster than that even to freeze the water more, thanks
Was in P* mode with it offset for faster ss but obviously need to take it some more.
This size look at that image maybe shows what i'm not happy about link
 
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Zenbaas

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Ok that 1/1250 gives me a feel that i'll need to be shooting faster than that even to freeze the water more, thanks
Was in P* mode with it offset for faster ss but obviously need to take it some more.
This size look at that image maybe shows what i'm not happy about link

Nah still think it's a really nice pic. Agree with Apoc though on the shutter speed.
 

Tun@

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Found an answer to my other question re faster AF on the 2.8's

In terms of lens maximum aperture, there is a reason why pro-level f/2.8 lenses focus much faster than f/5.6 consumer zoom lenses. All modern digital cameras focus while the lens aperture is wide open, so whenever you change the lens aperture to a higher number like f/16, the aperture actually gets changed only when you take a picture. Therefore, larger apertures are better than smaller apertures for better autofocus operation, with the exception of very fast f/1.4 prime lenses. Ideally, the lens aperture should be between f/2.0 and f/2.8 for best autofocus performance. Smaller apertures like f/5.6 mean less light passing through the lens, making autofocus operation more difficult and very large apertures like f/1.4 have a very shallow depth of field, which makes it difficult for AF systems to get accurate focus.

Read more: http://photographylife.com/dslr-autofocus-modes-explained#ixzz2rErYUs6O
 

Tun@

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Some of last nights Durban light show.

12115463296_23f7fb9826_z.jpg
Tokina 11-16mm / Bulb mode @20secs / ISO 80 / F22
 

Zenbaas

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Is there quite a bit of distortion on the RHS of the image or is it just me? Very nice though.
 

Tun@

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Is there quite a bit of distortion on the RHS of the image or is it just me? Very nice though.

You mean the buildings or the darkness above the skyline?
The darkness is a storm cloud there.....The buildings were a problem taking that out PP cos there's no Tokina lens/Nikon body distortion control match i can use,just had to juggle to try & get the most normal fit i could come up with.
 

Zenbaas

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You mean the buildings or the darkness above the skyline?
The darkness is a storm cloud there.....The buildings were a problem taking that out PP cos there's no Tokina lens/Nikon body distortion control match i can use,just had to juggle to try & get the most normal fit i could come up with.

The buildings on the right look like they're slanting left slightly.
 

Tun@

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The buildings on the right look like they're slanting left slightly.

Yep problem being if i straighten those then the building in the foreground centre becomes the leaning tower of Pisa to the right :)
 

APoc184

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Have you tried the distortion adjustment in Lightroom? That should be able to straighten the bottom part out for you?
 

Tun@

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Tryed LR & never grew to like it much.. I settled with learning NX2 & i also have DXo.......DXO has the distortion control for when that Tokina is on a DX body but does'nt for FX.......I can correct it with a "force parallel" feature in Dxo but then there's hardly much image left...I'm not going to sweat it but its all interesting ,helps me learn.....

DxO "Force Parallel", but now i don't like the crop area left & that darkness on the right is starting to get more annoying :)

12117880673_e406276f3e.jpg
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. there perfect :)

12117880673_e406276f3e_s.jpg
 
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OGroteKoning

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Pick a lens... any lens
 

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APoc184

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There's only one "e" in lens.

And I'll take the white one.

You must excuse us Dutchies ;) :p

And you only want the white one because it is outnumbered and being bullied :p
 
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bwana

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You must excuse us Dutchies ;) :p

And you only want the white one because it is outnumbered and being bullied :p
Looks to me that most of them were canon bodies/lenses. The 1Dx is kicking butt and taking names in the sports genre. ;) Just ask Scott Kelby :p
 

OGroteKoning

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