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Sign up with GoogleWhat motor oil to buy for toyota conquest?
- Thread starter stoymigo
- Start date
Ok thanks, I went on this website and you can find the recommended grade for your car and it recommended
20W-50, is that fine?
http://lubematch.shell.com/za/en_GB/equipment/cars/toyota_(zar)/conquest_130_sport_EFt8PiIem
20W-50, is that fine?
http://lubematch.shell.com/za/en_GB/equipment/cars/toyota_(zar)/conquest_130_sport_EFt8PiIem
Ockie
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From my manual
Approved oils are in SAE classes
5W-40 and 5W-30.<
These oils can be used at all ambient temperatures.
Fox1
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No way you should be using fully synthetic in a 130 carburetor engine.
Best oil is Shell Helix 15w-40, the yellow gallon.
Castrol GTX 20w-50 will just cause sludge in the sump and if you have been using that oil before, I suggest you get the sump cleaned out or else you maye end up with worn out valve stem seals and rings at worst. Magnetec on the other hand is just too weak and it will push through the seals and gaskets.
Best oil is Shell Helix 15w-40, the yellow gallon.
Castrol GTX 20w-50 will just cause sludge in the sump and if you have been using that oil before, I suggest you get the sump cleaned out or else you maye end up with worn out valve stem seals and rings at worst. Magnetec on the other hand is just too weak and it will push through the seals and gaskets.
The_MAC
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I used to be a proud owner of a Toyota Conquest 1.3S, and I used to put in anything I got my hands on (I was a student at the time). But honestly it was chowing so much oil I asked myself, does it really matter which oil I use if I basically "replace" it every few months. The car never gave me issues in the 6 years I drove it and it still roams the streets today at +250,000 Km on the clock.
But most of the time I can remember buying Shell Helix 15w-40
But most of the time I can remember buying Shell Helix 15w-40
Ockie
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Fully synthetic in a 1.3 carb is fine. It may just be costly compared to other options. Fully synthetic doesn't denature as easily as mineral or semi synthetic oils.
I don't agree with what was said about the Castrol oils. GTX is the budget 20w50 oil from Castrol. Never seen it cause sludge. Magnetic is slightly thinner than GTX at 10w40 and claims to stick to the surfaces better, not sure if that's true but it seemed to be better than GTX at cold start.
If any oil is pushing through gaskets, the gaskets need replacing. It's not the oils fault. Any similar weight oil will do the same thing.
Never add any additives or engine cleaners into the oil ever, these cause sludge.
Just change your oil and oil filter at the service intervals and your car will be fine.
This. I've had first hand experience with a 2001 Toyota Corolla. The sludge was so bad, that the engine eventually seized, and to be stripped, cleaned out, and stuff inside replaced. Cost a pretty packet.
Fox1
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Similar principal. Older engines don't have seals tough enough to hold back the thin oil and over time you'll find a perspiration leaking through the seals. Actually you will find the tappets would get rowdy as the oil was designed for cars with hydraulic lifters.
If you phone the agents, they will easily recommend 20w-50 which costs like R300 for the Toyota Brand but I had a chat with the salesman and he recommended the Helix as that's what they also use.
Fazda
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Fully synthetic is somewhat of an overkill, but there is nothing wrong with going that route, as it lasts longer than normal oil.
A little Conquest should be quite happy with a tummy full of Helix or Caltex 20 w 50, however, at about a quarter of the price.
A little Conquest should be quite happy with a tummy full of Helix or Caltex 20 w 50, however, at about a quarter of the price.
Ockie
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Fazda
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Just an FYI, that oil is fully "synthetic" - as in the American definition, not the German one. Basically means it is a hydrocracked mineral oil and not Group IV (derived from PAOs). Still a VERY good oil, though.
Switching from mineral to synthetic is never recommended, since it usually leads to leaks in older cars.
Ockie
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OCKIE!!!!!!!
Great to see you back!!
We missed you child!!
haha .... dankie meneer. It is nice to be back
Ockie
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So is Liqui Moly fully synthetic as you say?
Liqui moly does have some Group IV oils, but I have not found a reliable way to tell, although I did not spend a lot of time on it, since it is somewhat difficult to get Liqui Moly anyway. If you want a Group IV oil, the easiest way is to buy Mobil 1. I don't really care since hydro-cracked is more than sufficient.
ACTPerformance
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Midas Gold - Just kidding
I would go for Shell Helix, Castrol GTX or Catrol Magnatec. Affordable decent oils.
Run an engine flush before you change the oil if you havent changed the oil for a long time.
Also, get yourself a magnetic oil drain plug for your sump.
I would go for Shell Helix, Castrol GTX or Catrol Magnatec. Affordable decent oils.
Run an engine flush before you change the oil if you havent changed the oil for a long time.
Also, get yourself a magnetic oil drain plug for your sump.
Find out what the manufacturer specifications of the engine are.(API number on back of can oil) X w X number is only the viscosity of the oil.
And for the guy that mentions 95 octane fuel...The higher the octane rating the more inert the fuel is.Meaning the higher your fuel consumption will be.
It normally only makes sense to use high octane ratings on high compression engines to compensate for the premature combustion (pinging) Size and age of an engine has nothing to do with what fuel to use.
And for the guy that mentions 95 octane fuel...The higher the octane rating the more inert the fuel is.Meaning the higher your fuel consumption will be.
It normally only makes sense to use high octane ratings on high compression engines to compensate for the premature combustion (pinging) Size and age of an engine has nothing to do with what fuel to use.
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