Join us now. It is free, and it takes less than 1 minute to register.
Register now
Subscribe to our daily newsletter. It is free, and it comes with many benefits.


+ Reply to Thread
Page 1 of 8 12345 ... LastLast
Results 1 to 15 of 117

Thread: Wiring distributuion box

  1. #1

    Default Wiring distributuion box

    So our BD finally gave in. My question is how is the wiring supposed to connect? The geyser doesn't have an earth so is that also supposed to connect to the earth leakage or to the mains? And what about the stove and lights? I also suppose the busbar (sp?) should connect to the main switch so the neutral disconnects with it? And does it matter which way the power connects? Most conduits come from the top so it just makes sense to me to connect them to the top of the breakers.

    Is there an easy way to just install the innards of the new DB without having to break out the old casing?

  2. #2

    Default

    Sorry, I know this isn't an answer to your question, but just food for thought

    I'd recommend getting in a qualified electrician, and someone who can coc it all. Personally I don't touch that stuff, and for one reason, if house burns down, insurance can't blame me and refuse to pay

  3. #3
    Super Grandmaster
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Pretoria Mahlanyeng
    Posts
    6,063

    Default

    Honestly your questions make me a tad uncomfortable, while I encourage people to DIY, I also think safety comes first, I really do think you need someone who is more knowledgeable to help.
    I am of a nation that would not allow that fear of death, of torture, of imprisonment, of exile or persecution should result in the perpetuation of injustice.

  4. #4

    Default

    Get a sparky. Everything needs to be on a E/L some people take the lights of the E/L as they did a stuff up when installing the lights and now the E/L trips all the time. The way a breaker is designed to work with overload and short circuit you have to feed at the top and connect the load at the bottom, there are some breakers that can be wired any way but lets not get into it for now, usually on the breakers they indicate supply and load. As per your old DB, there are some nice PVC surface mount that just fix over the old DB and wire all the new equipment in the new DB.

  5. #5

    Default

    You're right it's not the answer I want. Either I do it and it's correct or it stays like it is. The way it is now is way worse and outright illegal with wires going directly from the incoming supply. I asked the questions on how it's supposed to be wired which is easy for someone who knows to answer so please if you don't know then don't comment. And why would my questions make you uncomfortable?

  6. #6
    Super Grandmaster
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Pretoria
    Posts
    8,889

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Swa View Post
    You're right it's not the answer I want. Either I do it and it's correct or it stays like it is. The way it is now is way worse and outright illegal with wires going directly from the incoming supply. I asked the questions on how it's supposed to be wired which is easy for someone who knows to answer so please if you don't know then don't comment. And why would my questions make you uncomfortable?
    Because giving you information that you think qualifies you to do work that can kill you and your family, sort of makes the person providing that information guilty.
    Quote Originally Posted by Rouxenator View Post
    Aye, but 'tis rare. That's my thing, rare no matter if it's POS

  7. #7

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by dillinger View Post
    Get a sparky. Everything needs to be on a E/L some people take the lights of the E/L as they did a stuff up when installing the lights and now the E/L trips all the time. The way a breaker is designed to work with overload and short circuit you have to feed at the top and connect the load at the bottom, there are some breakers that can be wired any way but lets not get into it for now, usually on the breakers they indicate supply and load. As per your old DB, there are some nice PVC surface mount that just fix over the old DB and wire all the new equipment in the new DB.
    That is basically what I thought. So are the ones indicating feed at the bottom and load at the top just a circuit diagram and not a physical one? I also don't understand how the E/L is supposed to work as I can't see any earth wires go in or out of it.

    The reason I don't want to install a surface mount is because there's a cabinet going over it that can't be moved elsewhere.

  8. #8

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Messugga View Post
    Because giving you information that you think qualifies you to do work that can kill you and your family, sort of makes the person providing that information guilty.
    Kinda ironic coming from the people on this forum who continually sympathise with the rights of squatters, and we all know how those connections look.

  9. #9
    Grandmaster
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    CT Southern Subs
    Posts
    3,421

    Default

    A Sparky could do it all in a day. R500. Not worth the trouble in my opinion
    Asus Sabertooth Z77 | i5 3570k | CM V6GT | 16GB RipjawsX 1866 | Asus GTX670 2GB | GB Superb 720 PSU | CM HAF X | Acer G245H

  10. #10

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by bromster View Post
    A Sparky could do it all in a day. R500. Not worth the trouble in my opinion
    The biggest problem isn't the wiring but putting in a new box and feed wire. Putting in a new box is probably not the difficult part but how would I get the old one out?

  11. #11

    Default

    Current flow is IN at the top, OUT at the bottom. The real name for a E/L is actually a "residual current device" what it does is compares the Live wire to the Neutral wire, any imbalance and it trips. Well if you don't want to make use of a surface mount then get a new chassis bent up, fit either DIN or Samite rail for the breakers and have a cover made and paint it OR chisel and hammer and remove the complete old DB and put in a new one.

  12. #12

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by dillinger View Post
    Current flow is IN at the top, OUT at the bottom. The real name for a E/L is actually a "residual current device" what it does is compares the Live wire to the Neutral wire, any imbalance and it trips. Well if you don't want to make use of a surface mount then get a new chassis bent up, fit either DIN or Samite rail for the breakers and have a cover made and paint it OR chisel and hammer and remove the complete old DB and put in a new one.
    So it doesn't actually connect to the earth at all?

    Bolded part would be the most hassle and there's also conduits coming in and screwed to the box. Is it possible to buy the rail and busbar separately or will I need to salvage them from a box?

  13. #13
    Super Grandmaster Gnome's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    Cape Town
    Posts
    5,241

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by dillinger View Post
    The real name for a E/L is actually a "residual current device"
    It has different names depending on the territory. None are correct or incorrect. It all depends on the local legislation and what it is referred to in that.

    SA = Earth Leakage
    USA = GFCI (Ground fault circuit interrupter)
    UK = RCD

    In South Africa the legislation calls it a earth leakage.

  14. #14
    Super Grandmaster Gnome's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    Cape Town
    Posts
    5,241

    Default

    The standards are constantly changing but generally today, everything must be on an earth leakage and everything should have a ground wire.

    Your geyser should have a ground wire for sure and in new installations it must be on a earth leakage.
    Additionally the copper piping on the geyser must be bonded (meaning earth wire is connected to it).

    Your installation ideally should be:
    Main switch -> Earth Leakage 1, Earth Leakage 2, ...

    Earth Leakage 1 -> Geyser + Stove + Oven
    Earth Leakage 2 -> Plugs + Lights

    If you have 3 phase, things get different.

    You can even put every circuit on a separate earth leakage.

    In the UK they have started selling a combined earth leakage and circuit breaker that only takes a single space in a DB. Very cool because it allows every single circuit to be on an earth leakage.

    The reason it is better is that an earth leakage will trip on any leakage of current (well more than 30mA). So you can get into a situation known as nuisance trips. The fewer earth leakages you have the higher the chance of a nuisance trip, and the more annoying it is (eg. single earth leakage means your entire house is without power)

    EDIT:
    Also earth leakage and earth wires don't have much in common despite the name.
    The earth leakage measures power flowing between live and neutral and trips if they aren't balanced.

    Earth wires allow a safe and low resistance path for current to flow in the event that a conductive material comes in contact with live.

    The earth wire allows the current to flow from the live to earth thereby causing a earth leakage to trip, but in and of itself, it doesn't actually play a role in how an earth leakage works.

    Also your lack of knowledge is so bad that you'll screw this up. I'm not going to withhold knowledge but I'm just telling you. You'll f#@k this up. Either hire someone or else download the SANS documents and study them in detail. I did the latter myself.
    Last edited by Gnome; 24-08-2017 at 08:23 PM.

  15. #15

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Gnome View Post
    Your geyser should have a ground wire for sure and in new installations it must be on a earth leakage.
    Additionally the copper piping on the geyser must be bonded (meaning earth wire is connected to it).
    It may or may not have one. Honestly it's impossible for me to tell anything through the current mess until I take it apart.

    Quote Originally Posted by Gnome View Post
    Your installation ideally should be:
    Main switch -> Earth Leakage 1, Earth Leakage 2, ...

    Earth Leakage 1 -> Geyser + Stove + Oven
    Earth Leakage 2 -> Plugs + Lights
    Space is a problem though but I understand your point. Will see if I can fit 2 in. Although we've never had any nuisance trips but I don't know what exactly is connected to it.

    Quote Originally Posted by Gnome View Post
    In the UK they have started selling a combined earth leakage and circuit breaker that only takes a single space in a DB. Very cool because it allows every single circuit to be on an earth leakage.
    I think I saw those. Called an earth leakage with overload protection, unless this is something different.

    One positive in this is that they installed those new boxes in the street so I can just switch off there when working on the feed.

+ Reply to Thread
Page 1 of 8 12345 ... LastLast

Similar Threads

  1. Help need wiring a UPS!!
    By steenkampc in forum PC Hardware and Gadgets
    Replies: 2
    Last Post: 15-11-2016, 10:15 AM
  2. Wiring
    By Photosbot3 in forum Photography
    Replies: 0
    Last Post: 18-08-2015, 11:55 AM
  3. LED wiring
    By Photosbot2 in forum Photography
    Replies: 0
    Last Post: 11-08-2015, 09:14 AM
  4. HD PVR Wiring Help
    By mcryan in forum TV Services, including DStv, Video on Demand, Video Streaming
    Replies: 28
    Last Post: 03-05-2012, 09:01 AM
  5. Wiring help
    By Sneeky in forum ADSL and VDSL Discussions
    Replies: 2
    Last Post: 18-04-2006, 07:30 PM

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •