Added some protection and USB/Serial ports, which is nice, but the battery cycle rating is not listed on this page, don't know if it's specified elsewhere.
You can check some of the example configurations in the appendix here: https://rust-electrical.co.za/pdf/SANS10142-1Amdt8.pdf (not sure if this is the newest revision).
Or:
Very view USB ports other than dedicated chargers can actually handle 20-30W+ fast charging. Some chargers also increase the voltage to implement fast charging, so I can't imagine any of these manufacturers doing that. If I'm not mistaken there's a specific part of the USB standard (USB Power...
True.
That's probably my only gripe with this trolley. I'm guessing either the BMS is not entirely integrated with the inverter, or it's just not displayed on the LCD. Would love to know if someone has a workaround.
Sorry, but your responses are extremely inarticulate and it is difficult to figure out what you're trying to say.
Let's take cell voltage out of the equation.
A load of 300W (PC, 2x monitors, TV) for 4 hours is 1200 Wh, which means that a 2.56kWh battery will be at 1360Wh or +/- 53% after 4...
That's my feeling as well.
The manual also doesn't make sense. LifePo4 cells are 3.2 V (25.6 V for the battery in the 3 kW unit) nominal and can drop down to 2.5 V (20 V).
Based on the manual, if the load is <20% and the battery bar is full, the cell voltage will be >2.033 V (16.264 V - which...
Can anyone confirm if the battery SoC display is working? I have used the 3 kW unit for about two weeks now and I haven't seen it drop below a bar once, even though I would expect it to, especially during stage 6.
Well, yes and no. You can't measure LifePo4 voltage during load and expect anything remotely close to an accurate result. That's why they all come with integrated BMS's, it's a bit more complicated to determine the state of charge. You can measure voltage after loads have been disconnected for...
This is an unbelievably bad idea. You will seriously damage either your R30k inverter + battery or your appliances connected from the DB board. The inverter output is not synchronized with the grid, it's not protected through the earth leakage, and when eskom power comes back on your inverter...
I would honestly rather go for the 3kW/2.56kWh version if you want to run your pc and if you want to extend your battery life. I have a 520W PSU and my pc, monitors included, draws about 300-350W during gaming, which means if you run it off the 1kWh battery you will drain it completely in less...
The battery's C rating is relative to its capacity.
A 100Ah battery with a 0.5C rating means that it can charge and discharge at maximum 0.5 times its capacity, so 50A. As such, the fastest it can charge from zero to max is 2 hours (1 / 0.5).