3d Printers South Africa

gbyleveldt said:
That honeycomb storage wall works pretty well hey. I’ll post some pics tomorrow of how it’s populated so far. Once I’m done with that I want to do the gridfinity system for the drawers. I have a lot of little screws and fluff that needs sorting
Click to expand...

I'm planning to do a 3x3 for my study and then a bigger one for the garage.

Looks like it's the perfect thing for using up all the bits of leftover filament too.

Did you print yours with zero or 15 percent infill - Cura estimated 20 minutes longer to print with zero infill.

Will have a look at the Gridfinity system too.
 
AfricanTech said:
I'm planning to do a 3x3 for my study and then a bigger one for the garage.

Looks like it's the perfect thing for using up all the bits of leftover filament too.

Did you print yours with zero or 15 percent infill - Cura estimated 20 minutes longer to print with zero infill.

Will have a look at the Gridfinity system too.
Click to expand...
I printed mine with 0% infill (using PrusaSlicer though). There's no real space for infill to be honest. Granted, I printed with a 0.6 nozzle and 0.45 layer height (it takes long to print these and I'm not the patient type). I used SA Filament black at 220C as this gave me the best flow for speed (around 25mm^3, a bit over max flow for a Dragonfly but it worked well for this model and filament combo) without any oozing at all. The orange parts were done with Zen Ignition Orange PLA+ and I had to bring speed down on that because temps had to come down to prevent oozing (around 205C).
 
RedViking said:
How does this work?
Click to expand...
Grinder usually stands like this
1680381502516.png

The printed base leans it forward and downward. The grinder looks like this inside
1680381806382.png

So it has a chute going downward when it comes out the burr, by leaning down it just allows all the beans to fall out more easily.
I added an additional mod at the top since
1680381959217.png

Took a bit longer because I haven't really printed PETG and had to print it in PETG.
The bellow at the top allows me to blow out the last bit for 0 retention.

A grinder like the Niche Zero is setup for this (it is a zero retention grinder), but that grinder is really hard to find locally.
Not to mention that many people who have had both say that the Eureka Speciality is actually better other than retention.

Anyway as you can see, I did a bunch of research and stuff before going this route.
I'm already able to make better flat white, espresso and cafe latte's than 99% of coffee shops now.
Not because I'm special, but because most coffee shops are about speed and efficiency.
I spend more time cleaning between each shot and things like that which really impacts taste at the cost of some time
(PS: I'm not entirely a coffee snob, I just drink a lot of it, up to this point I drank Nespresso and will do so on holidays again because the machine is tiny and convenient )
 
Gnome said:
Grinder usually stands like this
View attachment 1501943

The printed base leans it forward and downward. The grinder looks like this inside
View attachment 1501945

So it has a chute going downward when it comes out the burr, by leaning down it just allows all the beans to fall out more easily.
I added an additional mod at the top since
View attachment 1501947

Took a bit longer because I haven't really printed PETG and had to print it in PETG.
The bellow at the top allows me to blow out the last bit for 0 retention.

A grinder like the Niche Zero is setup for this (it is a zero retention grinder), but that grinder is really hard to find locally.
Not to mention that many people who have had both say that the Eureka Speciality is actually better other than retention.

Anyway as you can see, I did a bunch of research and stuff before going this route.
I'm already able to make better flat white, espresso and cafe latte's than 99% of coffee shops now.
Not because I'm special, but because most coffee shops are about speed and efficiency.
I spend more time cleaning between each shot and things like that which really impacts taste at the cost of some time
(PS: I'm not entirely a coffee snob, I just drink a lot of it, up to this point I drank Nespresso and will do so on holidays again because the machine is tiny and convenient )
Click to expand...
That's super cool. I'm not sure how much the leaning forward will make, but I guess it does make sense as it remove some friction, but the rest makes sense. Haha, my breville built in grinder is horrendous with retention. I have to vacuum it clean. Don't even want to know what goes on further down. It's like finding a piece of lettuce stuck to a plate from a year ago.

Anyways, come post some pics here:

Coffee Making, Latte Art, Barista Skills

Hey guys! Heres my yearly post … not really a forum person, but I try. Since my last post I have been pretty busy…I’m now SCA certified as a sensory foundation and barista intermediate. Did the courses with Stevo Khun, awesome oak, and fantastic teacher! Here’s another attempt at doing more...
mybroadband.co.za mybroadband.co.za

Also I loved printing with PETG. Nice and slow but came out beautiful.
 
AfricanTech said:
This will be the next thing I print.

I'm constantly looking for things 'cos I dont have decent storage spaces.

Now that I have a proper inverter system I can resurrect the 3d hobby.
Click to expand...

I've just started printing some of them now myself.

I've been hunting and hunting for a decent wall storage solution for my garage for years, so gonna print a few of these to see how it works out.
 
ToxicBunny said:
I've just started printing some of them now myself.

I've been hunting and hunting for a decent wall storage solution for my garage for years, so gonna print a few of these to see how it works out.
Click to expand...
Just remember that the top and bottom needs to be flipped. Ie, the top as printed faces the wall. It’s not immediately clear in the description
 
gbyleveldt said:
Just remember that the top and bottom needs to be flipped. Ie, the top as printed faces the wall. It’s not immediately clear in the description
Click to expand...

Shot :)

ATM I'm just printing out a few (maybe 6) of the units, then going to print out some mounting units and whatever just to see how it all works and whether it will suit my usecase.
 
Guys.
First time buy a 3D printer.

What’s the best option for one that works out the box with a budget of 10k.
This is just for hobby work.
 
gbyleveldt said:
Just remember that the top and bottom needs to be flipped. Ie, the top as printed faces the wall. It’s not immediately clear in the description
Click to expand...
Thanks - I wasn't 100 percent sure of that - nice is that that is the better side (printing on glass makes the bottom really smooth.

I presume that the clip-ins are pushed in top to bottom though
 
tRoN said:
Guys.
First time buy a 3D printer.

What’s the best option for one that works out the box with a budget of 10k.
This is just for hobby work.
Click to expand...
Ender 3 S1 Pro.
I'd consider the Ender 3 S1 if you are on a tighter budget.
But DO NOT buy the older Ender 3 models, they aren't even maybe in the same league.
 
tRoN said:
Guys.
First time buy a 3D printer.

What’s the best option for one that works out the box with a budget of 10k.
This is just for hobby work.
Click to expand...
With a 10K budget the minimum I'd go for is a Creality Ender 3 S1. Unfortunately don't have much experience with the other printers so can't give you comparisons except to say that I've been very happy with mine 'out the box' - I use mine for printing all sorts of practical stuff to use around the house - do very little printing of models/toys.
 
AfricanTech said:
I presume that the clip-ins are pushed in top to bottom though
Click to expand...
For the most part, the clips as printed has their top side facing the wall as well. That’s the smallest side - it’ll make perfect sense once you’ve printed a few.
 
tRoN said:
Guys.
First time buy a 3D printer.

What’s the best option for one that works out the box with a budget of 10k.
This is just for hobby work.
Click to expand...


Gnome said:
Ender 3 S1 Pro.
I'd consider the Ender 3 S1 if you are on a tighter budget.
But DO NOT buy the older Ender 3 models, they aren't even maybe in the same league.
Click to expand...

With that budget @tRoN may want to consider the Creality CE-10S Pro V2* - I see that diyelectronics has it for R9,999.

@tRoN don't forget to budget for filament as well :laugh:

​

With what I know now ie I really enjoy this hobby, I should probably have gone for the CE-10S Pro V2 at the outset.

Link to comparison review: https://www.crealityexperts.com/ender-3-s1-vs-cr-10-smart-pro
 
I own a couple of printers now and I follow the 3d printing community pretty well and I'll just go out on a limb and say that (yes this is a forceful answer but for newbies a good answer IMO)
1) Do not buy lesser know printers, you are f#cking yourself. You may find reviews saying, oh it is like the Ender 3 but a little bit better on X. Well guess what, they Ender 3 has like tens of thousands of people using it. Your printer, maybe a thousand. The fewer people use a product, the less online support you'll have, the fewer mods you'll have, the more likely you are to have issues. DO. NOT. DO. IT

Buy from this list or save up until you can buy from this list:
1) Ender 3 S1 / Ender 3 S1 Pro
2) Bambu lab X1 Carbon / Bambu Lab P1P
3) Prusa MK3S+/MK4/XL

If you are hardcore into your DIY and you have a lot of time and the skills to do mechanical assembly, electrical assembly and some software skills
Voron printers, Ratrig printers

Anything not on this list, assume that X months from now you are going to have trouble and give up on the hobby because it is hard to fix.
Yes, you could be special and have a perfect experience, but trust me 99% of the people that buy other brands, lesser known brands, they have a problem at some point, get frustrated and give up.

If you want a reliable workhorse, with a LOT of support, stick with ^^

Longer story:
I'm a HARDCORE DIYer, I built my own lithium battery, inverter setup, I renovated my own apartment (x2) doing everything (electrical, pipe work, geyser, air conditioner, plastering, literally EVERYthing myself, not a single hired helper; and yes I own a lot of tools now). Even with that I found using an early model Ender 3 to be a frustrating experience and gave up.

Why, because the problems I had are hard to figure out. I went to an Voron 2.4r2 after that and it was a LOT of work but I have a 100% reliable, 100% repeatable printer now (ie. every print is a success unless I sliced badly). Repeatability is one of the most frustrating problems because you think you are doing well and then suddenly all your hopes are smashed when your next print looks like sh#t.

The problems I had with the Ender 3 was that it had a bad motherboard out of the box. I didn't know it had one, so I started upgrading things to try fix it. What then happened was that my printer was no longer stock so I struggled to just use the standard slicer profiles and firmwares online.

That is more important than you can imagine. Tweaking a slicer profile takes YEARS of understanding, testing, tweaking (trust me it has been years for me and I'm only really fully understanding each little knob on the slicer now). You do not want to get into it. It is hours upon hours of work. Use a printer that is standard and that is well supported so you can download a thing, get the slicer profile and then just click print.

Sure you can become hardcore in this hobby and I encourage you to do so. But starting out that way will be insanely frustrating for you and it MUCH more likely to cause you to give up.

3d printing is really hard because the problems are insanely subtle. Microns changes (ie. less than a millimeter) can make a huge difference on your prints. It takes a lot of patience, lot of testing to make the tiniest differences.
 
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