Home Assistant : Q&A, Tips & Tricks, Your Configs

squirrel said:
Ooh I need to do this. What fan did you use?
Click to expand...

Here are the details :

140mm Fan Riser printed in PETG

Smart Plug from SmartPad. I went with the Tuya option even though it's controlled locally by Home Assistant

ID-Cooling AS-140-W 140mm Case Fan

12v Power Supply

*Very important. The 12v Power Supply is not stablized. If less current is drawn, there is a rise in voltage. Given the fan uses so little, that rise is substantial.* In short, set the power supply to 6V. It actually pulls and then sends around 10V to the fan. So the fan spins a bit slower than it could. But it's also more quiet.
 
hilt_ctn said:
Here are the details :

140mm Fan Riser printed in PETG

Smart Plug from SmartPad. I went with the Tuya option even though it's controlled locally by Home Assistant

ID-Cooling AS-140-W 140mm Case Fan

12v Power Supply

*Very important. The 12v Power Supply is not stablized. If less current is drawn, there is a rise in voltage. Given the fan uses so little, that rise is substantial.* In short, set the power supply to 6V. It actually pulls and then sends around 10V to the fan. So the fan spins a bit slower than it could. But it's also more quiet.
Click to expand...
Or just use a 12v power supply from an old external disk?
 
Implemented some Blueprints that Gemini helped me create.
Required some trial & error to get them working the way I wanted, but Gemini is pretty helpful.
 
killerbyte said:
Implemented some Blueprints that Gemini helped me create.
Required some trial & error to get them working the way I wanted, but Gemini is pretty helpful.
Click to expand...
Blueprints covering what?

I've found LLMs to be quite good at these things
 
Zuluzebra said:
any way to bring my electric fence into HA? I would like to see that the Joules are where it needs to be. Also power it on and off remotely. My understanding is that a smart plug won't work as you need the battery inside the energiser otherwise it won't work.
Click to expand...
A bit of a late reply.

I used a Sonoff SV in isolated mode (the same way that it is used for garage door motors and electric gates). Energisers have dry contacts inside so you can hook up a few different things to them. I also flashed the SV with ESPHome so it intergrates without problem into HA.

1. The on/off dry contact is hooked up to the SV's relay which toggles on/off for a second or so to simulate the magnetic fob.
2. I hooked up the 12V siren dry contact to a 12V relay that I monitor on one of the three exposed GPIO pins for an alarm.
3. I soldered two leads to the status LED of the energiser and hooked them up via an optocoupler to one of the other GPIO pins.

The code and set-up are both very experimental and I struggled a lot with debouncing the status signal and getting the right toggle interval for the on/off switch, but the set-up has been working and stable for a year now. I want to fix it up properly in the next few months so it looks neater though.

If you want, I can do a proper write-up for you of what sins I committed.
 
Got to have serious patience to get Home Assistant working.
And then to make it even more frustrating AI's instructions do not match the interface.
Fook that **** to switch on a lamp :laugh:
 
dualmeister said:
Got to have serious patience to get Home Assistant working.
And then to make it even more frustrating AI's instructions do not match the interface.
Fook that **** to switch on a lamp :laugh:
Click to expand...
I did a fresh setup of HA after I received my Shelly Presence Gen4.
Gemini helped me do the automations and it was pretty simple.
 
cjvzyl said:
A bit of a late reply.

I used a Sonoff SV in isolated mode (the same way that it is used for garage door motors and electric gates). Energisers have dry contacts inside so you can hook up a few different things to them. I also flashed the SV with ESPHome so it intergrates without problem into HA.

1. The on/off dry contact is hooked up to the SV's relay which toggles on/off for a second or so to simulate the magnetic fob.
2. I hooked up the 12V siren dry contact to a 12V relay that I monitor on one of the three exposed GPIO pins for an alarm.
3. I soldered two leads to the status LED of the energiser and hooked them up via an optocoupler to one of the other GPIO pins.

The code and set-up are both very experimental and I struggled a lot with debouncing the status signal and getting the right toggle interval for the on/off switch, but the set-up has been working and stable for a year now. I want to fix it up properly in the next few months so it looks neater though.

If you want, I can do a proper write-up for you of what sins I committed.
Click to expand...
Assuming this is a Nemtek unit... please do the write up 🥸
 
Had a surge on my neutral and it fried about 12 smart light switches. Either shelly or LeGrand

Is shelly still the best to replace with or what are the alternatives?
 
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