I'm not a SANS10142-1 expert, but technically there would be no risk if you put the 63Abreaker upstream of the existing 2x dumb breakers. then you just need 63A rated wiring between the 63A breaker and each of the existing (assumed 20A breakers). So in your DB, earth leakage output to 63A smart...
I have the onkyo 609. The HDMI board failed and I had it replaced for free outside of warranty. It has been rock solid since.
Bought the unit in 2011/12, replaced the HDMI board around 2015.
So, I managed to disassemble the doorbell (fairly easily actually).
The front cover pops off and then there are six screws underneath that need to come out. the camera board then can be unscrewed as well as the lens assembly. The lens assembly has a 2 wire electrical connection, but I assume...
Well, at this point, it's out of warranty and blurry. so, hardly working anyway. if I completely toast it, I may just have to get one of those unifi G6 that @yogidabear mentioned :D
That's disappointing. It's a nice-looking unit, easy to integrate into HA, and reasonably priced. Unifi doorbells seem great but that price is hard to justify! Are you waiting for the G5?
Wondering if your reolink doorbell is still going strong? Mine is just out of warranty and has a problem with the image being blurry all the time. The lens doesn't appear scratched and have wiped it down. I've tried resetting it, firmware up to date.
Reolink offered me some cash off a new...
ok, I'm actually moving to unifi now from cudy. I had a few IoT devices that battle with the cudy mesh and showed similar symptoms. In my case I'm pretty sure it's the wifi and not the devices though.
I use a similar event once the door has been open for 5 minutes to trigger a while loop that sends a notification every minute. i.e. while door is open, notify, then delay 1 minute. after the loop completes (i.e. door is closed) the automation ends with a notification that the door has been closed.