Extra panels or Solar Geyser?

Pegasus said:
What is a power failure?

This is what the manual says:

After a power failure
• The air conditioner automatically resumes operation in about 3 minutes. You should just wait for a while.
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Some aircons that I've seen ie samsung don't resume operation, so if LS hits you in the middle of the night, you have to wake up to turn it back on. We have Aux and they resume operation.

How manufacturers can make something that doesn't resume blows my mind.
 
wingnut771 said:
Some aircons that I've seen ie samsung don't resume operation, so if LS hits you in the middle of the night, you have to wake up to turn it back on. We have Aux and they resume operation.

How manufacturers can make something that doesn't resume blows my mind.
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The manual says that if it was on the timer, then you will have to reset it when the power comes back on.
 
Pegasus said:
The manual says that if it was on the timer, then you will have to reset it when the power comes back on.
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Yeah, I never use timers, but I'm sure they would all be like that. Just be happy you have one that resumes operation as there is nothing more annoying than turning something on over and over.
 
wingnut771 said:
Yeah, I never use timers, but I'm sure they would all be like that. Just be happy you have one that resumes operation as there is nothing more annoying than turning something on over and over.
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I wonder if the Wi-Fi ones do that. This one has an optional R2000 Wi-Fi add on, but I reckon I could do without it.
 
Pegasus said:
I wonder if the Wi-Fi ones do that. This one has an optional R2000 Wi-Fi add on, but I reckon I could do without it.
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Possibly, I think the wifi allows you to use a smartphone app, so I guess the phone would hold the settings.
 
Koosvanwyk said:
I cannot say that my ITS heatpump is noisy, I was surprise by the lack of noise the first few days after installation. You can have a pretty normal conversation with someone standing right next to it when is is running (it is significantly less noisy compared to my to two AC's, although probably an unfair comparison as the AC unis are 10 years old already).

Wear and tear is not something unique to heatpumps. Like AC units they have to be services annually, the last service was R300. Most people don't know this but normal a electrical geyser also has to be services annually to ensure that the anode does not corrode away, but no one does this.
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Feel the once a year for the anode is a bit overkill

But yea leaving it till it is just a stub also not great

There has to be something to corrode that's its purpose
 
Koosvanwyk said:
I cannot say that my ITS heatpump is noisy, I was surprise by the lack of noise the first few days after installation. You can have a pretty normal conversation with someone standing right next to it when is is running (it is significantly less noisy compared to my to two AC's, although probably an unfair comparison as the AC unis are 10 years old already).

Wear and tear is not something unique to heatpumps. Like AC units they have to be services annually, the last service was R300. Most people don't know this but normal a electrical geyser also has to be services annually to ensure that the anode does not corrode away, but no one does this.
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Good quality makes a difference

Know a guy that thought ag i will just buy this cheap one online

And that thing was so bad he had to take of the cover and fine tune the spring that was too tight causing a vibration to hit a certain frequency that made the whole case resonate and sing the most horrible tune

Have seen a fair bit of ITS and they were all great
 
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wingnut771 said:
Some aircons that I've seen ie samsung don't resume operation, so if LS hits you in the middle of the night, you have to wake up to turn it back on. We have Aux and they resume operation.

How manufacturers can make something that doesn't resume blows my mind.
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Know the ITS pool heat pumps remembers last state ie if you leave it on after LS they come back on or stay off whatever you had it on

Don't know if their aircons do the same
 
leon.davibe said:
Feel the once a year for the anode is a bit overkill

But yea leaving it till it is just a stub also not great

There has to be something to corrode that's its purpose
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Is durban water hard or soft? What anode should we be using?
 
wingnut771 said:
Is durban water hard or soft? What anode should we be using?
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That i have. No idea

Did not know you get different types for the sacrificial ones

Edit:

We learn something new everyday , thanks

Choice seems more based on metals being protected and salt water or not
 
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wingnut771 said:
Is durban water hard or soft? What anode should we be using?
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if its acidic or low ph change it about every 24 to 36 months .easy to do ,take it out or take geyser spec with you to hardware place .not expensive ,some you need a long socket some just a spanner .tap it with a small hammer before loosening ,tap not moer ,just to loosen it up a bit .some seal with ptfe tape .empty geyser first with hosepipe on drain plug ,its on the bottom of the water inlet .NB turn geyser off at mains and tape up cb so it cant be turned on before starting .it takes longer to drain the COLD geyser NOTE than to replace rod,draining the geyser fully also gets rid of some of the calcium stones etc in the bottom of the tank
 
soulie said:
if its acidic or low ph change it about every 24 to 36 months .easy to do ,take it out or take geyser spec with you to hardware place .not expensive ,some you need a long socket some just a spanner .tap it with a small hammer before loosening ,tap not moer ,just to loosen it up a bit .some seal with ptfe tape .empty geyser first with hosepipe on drain plug ,its on the bottom of the water inlet .NB turn geyser off at mains and tape up cb so it cant be turned on before starting .it takes longer to drain the COLD geyser NOTE than to replace rod,draining the geyser fully also gets rid of some of the calcium stones etc in the bottom of the tank
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Which one? Magnesium, aluminium or zinc? Durban tap water is 7PH.
1679689482301.png
 
soulie said:
if its acidic or low ph change it about every 24 to 36 months .easy to do ,take it out or take geyser spec with you to hardware place .not expensive ,some you need a long socket some just a spanner .tap it with a small hammer before loosening ,tap not moer ,just to loosen it up a bit .some seal with ptfe tape .empty geyser first with hosepipe on drain plug ,its on the bottom of the water inlet .NB turn geyser off at mains and tape up cb so it cant be turned on before starting .it takes longer to drain the COLD geyser NOTE than to replace rod,draining the geyser fully also gets rid of some of the calcium stones etc in the bottom of the tank
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Yea remember the last time i did that

luckily drip trays was regulations when i built this house so no hosepipe needed

And isolator and stop tap so

Like you said

Waiting for the drain with no pressure makes it slow as hell

Edit :i just went in said i have a kwikot need anode that looks like this one

So i have no idea if mg or al

But yea i reckon i am overdue again, forgot to add a reminder of the date
 
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wingnut771 said:
Which one? Magnesium, aluminium or zinc? Durban tap water is 7PH.
View attachment 1498119
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As far as i understand it from what i have read now

The type has nothing to do with the water
But the metal the other parts are made of

Hence why he said mention tank model when buying

The water can probably affect how regular , hence why he said x months if acidic
 
wingnut771 said:
Which one? Magnesium, aluminium or zinc? Durban tap water is 7PH.
View attachment 1498119
Click to expand...


This one says most in Sa is magnesium
And that aluminium should only be used in hard water conditions

Depends how anal you wanna be how much reading you wanna do

Other ones i read said aluminium is the safest options and can be used in all scenarios
 

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