Extra panels or Solar Geyser?

Other ones i read say mg is best if it rots away in a year you have harder water and should use al

And if you get rotten smell you should look for zinc one

Seems the zinc is more active if i understand it correctly
So if the tank has already rusted away a lot it will protect better

Salt lots of it
 
soulie said:
if its acidic or low ph change it about every 24 to 36 months .easy to do ,take it out or take geyser spec with you to hardware place .not expensive ,some you need a long socket some just a spanner .tap it with a small hammer before loosening ,tap not moer ,just to loosen it up a bit .some seal with ptfe tape .empty geyser first with hosepipe on drain plug ,its on the bottom of the water inlet .NB turn geyser off at mains and tape up cb so it cant be turned on before starting .it takes longer to drain the COLD geyser NOTE than to replace rod,draining the geyser fully also gets rid of some of the calcium stones etc in the bottom of the tank
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Surely there is both a Circuit Breaker and Isolator in the picture and therefore something as rudimentary as tape isn’t required.
 
wingnut771 said:
Some aircons that I've seen ie samsung don't resume operation, so if LS hits you in the middle of the night, you have to wake up to turn it back on. We have Aux and they resume operation.

How manufacturers can make something that doesn't resume blows my mind.
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Funny that, I have two Aux units which don’t resume.

The other one which is Jet Blue or something does resume.
 
SauRoNZA said:
Surely there is both a Circuit Breaker and Isolator in the picture and therefore something as rudimentary as tape isn’t required.
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the anode is just a rod that gets pushed into a threaded hole in the geyser .some seal with a gasket and a nut that holds it in place .some screw into a threaded section of the geyser and the tape just stops water leakage .its a totally passive device ,it just prevents some geyser from rusting in the welded sections so quickly .most geysers in SA are just like 2 mm mild steel ,your kwikhot units are porcelain coated inside it helps a lot .you do get stainless units but not common and usually only in smaller sizes .the anode cost is maybe R200 and should be replaced regularly during maintenance ,insurance can reject a geyser claim if the rod hasnt been changed ,most dont though too much paperwork .an element and anode replacement is quick and easy .edit .cant remember if the old copper units had one .
 
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SauRoNZA said:
Funny that, I have two Aux units which don’t resume.

The other one which is Jet Blue or something does resume.
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if your aircon has an auto switch it will restart but the temp will be controlled at around 25 deg and not settable .switch is usually under the service cover , mainly used in rooms that house electronics .
 
soulie said:
the anode is just a rod that gets pushed into a threaded hole in the geyser .some seal with a gasket and a nut that holds it in place .some screw into a threaded section of the geyser and the tape just stops water leakage .its a totally passive device ,it just prevents some geyser from rusting in the welded sections so quickly .most geysers in SA are just like 2 mm mild steel ,your kwikhot units are porcelain coated inside it helps a lot .you do get stainless units but not common and usually only in smaller sizes .the anode cost is maybe R200 and should be replaced regularly during maintenance ,insurance can reject a geyser claim if the rod hasnt been changed ,most dont though too much paperwork .an element and anode replacement is quick and easy .edit .cant remember if the old copper units had one .
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Missing my point entirely…I made no comment about the anode and I know exactly what it is.
 
wingnut771 said:
You said the exact same thing as me. Read my post again.
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You may need to read your own post again.

You said yours resume, I said mine don’t.

69c69b463f4bf717d824eaa50f501ac4.jpg
 
SauRoNZA said:
You may need to read your own post again.

You said yours resume, I said mine don’t.

69c69b463f4bf717d824eaa50f501ac4.jpg
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Oops, I just saw "Aux" and read resumed, apologies. That is weird. This and the last house both had Aux aircons (6 of) and they all resumed after a power failure.

Sorry to hear that, that is very frustrating.
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SauRoNZA said:
Missing my point entirely…I made no comment about the anode and I know exactly what it is.
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so what was your point ?what does a circuit breaker and an isolator have to do with the anode .the anode doesnt have power on it at all ,the ptfe is the thread sealer tape for the units that screw in so water doesnt leak out .the anode simply disolves into the water over time ,you can even just pour magnesium stones into the geyser if you want .if this helps understand its called galvanic corrosion . unfortunately i cant explain it any better .
 
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Mike Hoxbig said:
How is it different to the other brands inverters?
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daikin uses a proprietary motor that operates different to normal motors .we started installing daikin ,late 80 s good machines .the compressor is also different .you need to dig a bit through google you may find a tech bulletin explaining them more.maybe look for one of the original names it was mc quin i think in the us .edit ,1679756703224.png
 
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soulie said:
daikin uses a proprietary motor that operates different to normal motors .we started installing daikin ,late 80 s good machines .the compressor is also different .you need to dig a bit through google you may find a tech bulletin explaining them more.maybe look for the original name it was mc quin i think .
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But how is it different? They all have proprietary motors...
 
newby_investor said:
Apart from the heat pump, what else did you change?
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Most of our appliances were 20 + years old and apart from the heat pump the appliances were due for replacement.

We replaced both our fridge/freezers with digital inverter fridge/freezers, the tumble dryer was replaced with a heat pump tumble dryer, the washing machine was replaced with a unit that uses less water and electricity and the stove was replaced with an electric Siemens stove in the IQ range. All was either A++ or A+++. We use a gas hob. The only large electricity usage appliance that we did not replace was the chest freezer as it is still working fine.

We are not home during the day, meaning all washing, drying, cooking happens in the evening using battery.
 
soulie said:
so what was your point ?what does a circuit breaker and an isolator have to do with the anode .the anode doesnt have power on it at all ,the ptfe is the thread sealer tape for the units that screw in so water doesnt leak out .the anode simply disolves into the water over time ,you can even just pour magnesium stones into the geyser if you want .if this helps understand its called galvanic corrosion . unfortunately i cant explain it any better .
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Read your post.

You were going on about taping over the CB so nobody accidentally turns it on etc…but that’s literally why an isolator exists.
 
SauRoNZA said:
Read your post.

You were going on about taping over the CB so nobody accidentally turns it on etc…but that’s literally why an isolator exists.
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ah ok now i can see its not the ptfe tape youre talking about .its standard practice to put tape over a dropped cb ,to stop somebody from turning it on .you cant put an isolate tag on a home cb .whether you drop the isolator or the cb allways tape it and mark it as isolated lots of geyser isolators sit in the db next to the geyser cb and not in the roof .ie you may have to leave the premise and anybody can resett it .we also photograph it so if its turned on and the element gets heat soak its not our responsibility.not all old installs have an isolator in the roof actually maybe 1 in 10 has one . .ps ,in fact very few geyser installs are compliant .most are a mess with exposed wiring and because its in a roof space plumbers get away with it ,especially connections and coverplates .IMG_20230326_101027.jpg
 
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