South Africans saving on electricity bills with IHP geysers

Lupus said:
You mean die?? Cause over 50 it dies

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It's recommended to store hot water at 60 degrees, but in a household you're circulating it so 50 and above is fine.
It's the one user who is struggling to get his water above 45 that is going to have issues as that's the sweet spot for the disease
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My friends mom who worked in a lab her whole life is not worried and just turns geyser on for an hour until water is just hot enough to not use any cold water. What is that 40?
 
wingnut771 said:
My friends mom who worked in a lab her whole life is not worried and just turns geyser on for an hour until water is just hot enough to not use any cold water. What is that 40?
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Depends on how low the initial starting point was
 
Lupus said:
Depends on how low the initial starting point was
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To have a shower hot enough to not use cold water? What does the starting point matter. She turns the shower on and feels the water and if she’s happy then turns the geyser off. Uses like 2kWh a day.
 
wingnut771 said:
To have a shower hot enough to not use cold water? What does the starting point matter. She turns the shower on and feels the water and if she’s happy then turns the geyser off. Uses like 2kWh a day.
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How warm the water was is the starting point and 2kWh is probably around 40
 
I'm still amazed so many folks settle for installing their geyser outside. Is the downside not as drastic as I imagine it to be?
 
Gudnews said:
I'm still amazed so many folks settle for installing their geyser outside. Is the downside not as drastic as I imagine it to be?
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I moved my geyser outside when I went for the evacuated tube solar geyser as my previous geyser burst and flood the whole room below causing a large amount of damage.

What exactly is your concern for the downside? The only thing I can think of is the aesthetic and longer time the hot water takes to reach your tap, but it isn’t really that much longer.

Also for ETS I find the water is much hotter than the retrofit pumped back to the geyser inside because of the shorter path, but this is just anecdotal.
 
phoneJunky said:
I moved my geyser outside when I went for the evacuated tube solar geyser as my previous geyser burst and flood the whole room below causing a large amount of damage.

What exactly is your concern for the downside? The only thing I can think of is the aesthetic and longer time the hot water takes to reach your tap, but it isn’t really that much longer.

Also for ETS I find the water is much hotter than the retrofit pumped back to the geyser inside because of the shorter path, but this is just anecdotal.
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So the wear and tear, and winter heating time factors are negligible? I don't mind the aesthetic that much. I'm looking to be enlightened.

A paranoid part of me thinks it's a conspiracy by big geyser to influence consumption.
 
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Gudnews said:
So the wear and tear, and winter heating time factors are negligible? I don't mind the aesthetic that much. I'm looking to be enlightened.

A paranoid part of me thinks it's a conspiracy by big geyser to influence consumption.
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Granted it’s not full blown winter yet but my IHP outside took pretty much the entire night to drop from 55-degrees to 50-degrees.

It’s really no concern, assuming it was designed to be outside.

IMG_3609.jpeg
 
Gudnews said:
So the wear and tear, and winter heating time factors are negligible? I don't mind the aesthetic that much. I'm looking to be enlightened.

A paranoid part of me thinks it's a conspiracy by big geyser to influence consumption.
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Mine has been on my roof since 2010 and I barely use any electricity to heat water. The higher my water temperature is at night the larger the temperature drop off over night. For me it is anything from 2-7 degrees depending on the starting temperature. Winter my drop is actually less because the ater doesn’t really go to 70-80 degrees.

As I said, the biggest thing for me was that if you are okay with how it looks. My ETS system is runs hotter than my neighbours who has the geyser inside their roof.

I don’t know how this will relate to IHP’s though.
 
A lot of insurers will prefer it to be outside the house, and especially not in a roof, due to the damage caused when it fails. Especially in a complex, where the builders put them all in the common roof space, and the top unit had at least a dozen bursts in a 2 year period, causing in each case the complete replacement of kitchen and bathroom, and replacing ceilings and built in cupboards in all rooms, and replacing carpets each time. They literally had to replace a kitchen they had installed the day before, because another one burst. So insurance insisted all geysers be not in roofs, and outside. Now all were moved, and no added damage from this now. By me most are outside, or in the basement area or in a garage, which is under the unit, though for some it is still inside, as it is unable to be removed. Changes the claim amount, instead of a R200k claim, now it is R4k claim only.
 
Justanotherguybythesea said:
A lot of insurers will prefer it to be outside the house, and especially not in a roof, due to the damage caused when it fails. Especially in a complex, where the builders put them all in the common roof space, and the top unit had at least a dozen bursts in a 2 year period, causing in each case the complete replacement of kitchen and bathroom, and replacing ceilings and built in cupboards in all rooms, and replacing carpets each time. They literally had to replace a kitchen they had installed the day before, because another one burst. So insurance insisted all geysers be not in roofs, and outside. Now all were moved, and no added damage from this now. By me most are outside, or in the basement area or in a garage, which is under the unit, though for some it is still inside, as it is unable to be removed. Changes the claim amount, instead of a R200k claim, now it is R4k claim only.
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I wonder why they even initially thought it's a good idea to have a geyser sitting in your roof. Mine sits directly over the house DB. Very smart planning from the installers...:cautious:.

My parents' one though has been around for 20-plus years, interesting enough. Never burst. Just the thermostat was replaced, but it has since been running only from the solar geysers. Element hasn't been turned on in at least 2 decades. That solar geyser pushes the temps probably higher than 70 degrees as it scolds badly if you don't mix correctly, higher than mine, which is maxed out on the thermostat.

I am hoping that because my element is being run at a 3rd of its capacity and the thermostat is also breaking significantly less current before I will get a lot of life out of mine.
 
denmendez65 said:
I wonder why they even initially thought it's a good idea to have a geyser sitting in your roof. Mine sits directly over the house DB. Very smart planning from the installers...:cautious:.

My parents' one though has been around for 20-plus years, interesting enough. Never burst. Just the thermostat was replaced, but it has since been running only from the solar geysers. Element hasn't been turned on in at least 2 decades. That solar geyser pushes the temps probably higher than 70 degrees as it scolds badly if you don't mix correctly, higher than mine, which is maxed out on the thermostat.

I am hoping that because my element is being run at a 3rd of its capacity and the thermostat is also breaking significantly less current before I will get a lot of life out of mine.
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Operational life really is the anode being replaced regularly, at least for the glass lined steel units, while the later plastic ones will simply burst from time and pressure cycles. They all fail either from rusting out at the fittings to the tank, or from fatigue cracking from the pressure cycling. If your original was a 300kPa one, and the solar retrofit dropped the pressure down to 200kPa, to not stress the solar absorber, then you will have a very long life, as the stresses are much reduced, though if you live in a soft water area like me good luck getting that anode out to change it, as here they will corrode into the threads and not come out without breaking the socket off the thin steel tank.
 
Luis said:
South Africans saving on electricity bills with IHP geysers

South African households can replace their electric geyser with one that has an integrated heat pump (IHP) and pay off the cost through electricity savings in less than 3 years.

Once paid off, the investment would cut down their energy bills by more than R11,000 per year based on current tariffs.
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The costs stated seem fairly accurate however the savings quoted are not. I received a mail stating the annual inspection will be R1950 and regassing etc may carry additional costs. So if you factor in the annual inspection for 10 years, plus any incidentals (not sure why warranty would not cover this) I am not sure the over all savings when compared to a standard geyser are dramatic. My 200l ihp consumes roughly 62kw per month vs 100kw usage of a kwikhot geyser. The quick hot would have cost 16500 vs the 34000 for ihp, concedely there were more pipes fitted. I am commenting because the unit is marketed as efficient and cost saving with a 10 year warranty. Now understanding I night be nit picking, 1950 was never mentioned at POS.
 
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