1987 BMW 316i - engine 'shudders' when turned off

cerebus

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That's the best way I can describe it really. When you turn off the ignition it sort of shakes for a second or two before dying fully. Is there a reason for this, should I be worried? Faulty starter perhaps?

Also the catch for our cubbyhole has broken off and the BMW garage wants to charge us R800 for a new one - I don't suppose anyone knows where I can get hold of a secondhand one? I don't really feel like coughing out nearly a grand for a lock. :D

Thanks
 
That's the best way I can describe it really. When you turn off the ignition it sort of shakes for a second or two before dying fully. Is there a reason for this, should I be worried? Faulty starter perhaps?

Also the catch for our cubbyhole has broken off and the BMW garage wants to charge us R800 for a new one - I don't suppose anyone knows where I can get hold of a secondhand one? I don't really feel like coughing out nearly a grand for a lock. :D


Thanks
That seems a lot, but I suppose the lock should match the keys you have. Don't scrapyards have these things lying around?
 
Pre-ignition (or preignition) in a spark-ignition engine is a technically different phenomenon from engine knocking, and describes the event wherein the air/fuel mixture in the cylinder ignites before the spark plug fires. Pre-ignition is initiated by an ignition source other than the spark, such as hot spots in the combustion chamber, a spark plug that runs too hot for the application, or carbonaceous deposits in the combustion chamber heated to incandescence by previous engine combustion events.
The phenomenon is also referred to as after-run, or run-on when it causes the engine to carry on running after the ignition is shut off, or sometimes dieseling, in reference to the fact that a heated diesel engine may, by design, run without an external ignition trigger so long as a suitable fuel/air mixture is supplied to the cylinders. This effect is more readily achieved on carbureted gasoline engines, as the fuel supply to the carburetor is typically regulated by a passive mechanical float valve and fuel delivery can feasibly continue until fuel line pressure has been relieved, provided the fuel can be somehow drawn past the throttle plate. The occurrence is rare in modern engines with throttle-body or electronic fuel injection, as the injectors will not be permitted to continue delivering fuel after the engine is shut off, and any occurrence may indicate the presence of a leaking (failed) injector.
Preignition and engine knock both sharply increase combustion chamber temperatures. Consequently, either effect increases the likelihood of the other effect occurring, and both can produce similar effects from the operator's perspective, such as rough engine operation or loss of performance due to operational intervention by a powertrain-management computer. For reasons like these, a person not familiarized with the distinction might describe one by the name of the other. Given proper combustion chamber design, preignition can generally be eliminated by proper spark plug selection, proper fuel/air mixture adjustment, and periodic cleaning of the combustion chambers

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Engine_knocking
 
summoner got that spot on, and regarding the cubby hole, not all versions had a lockable cubby hole. so go to a scapyard and get just the bit you need, but one without a lock. then you dont have a problem with keys that dont match
 
I agree with Summoner, also, it could be even simpler. Engine mountings. If they're worn, the could produce that effect. Is there any jerky behavior of any kind when changing gears?

Check the scrapyards for that lock.
 
Thanks for the input everyone... I don't think there is any noticeable jerkiness to the gear changing. I'll try to start with clearning out the spark plugs and see where that takes me :)
 
Thanks for the input everyone... I don't think there is any noticeable jerkiness to the gear changing. I'll try to start with clearning out the spark plugs and see where that takes me :)

With a BMW it's bound to be something deeper than that. Trust me, I've been there, and still am! :)
 
Thanks for the input everyone... I don't think there is any noticeable jerkiness to the gear changing. I'll try to start with clearning out the spark plugs and see where that takes me :)

You should start with asking yourselve WHEN did this started to occure first.
After you changed the spark plugs with "cheaper" ones (or just the wrong model)? Use Bosch W8DC (0.7mm gap). or NGK BP5E-VG (0.6mm gap).

Is the car running hotter than usual?
1987 is not a spring chicken, so carbon build up is very possible.


Summoner got it right...
Remedies:
"preignition can generally be eliminated by proper spark plug selection, proper fuel/air mixture adjustment, and periodic cleaning of the combustion chambers i.e. decarbonasing"

@Velenoso:
Engine mountings won't keep shaking it for "about a second" after Ign/Off.
 
You should start with asking yourselve WHEN did this started to occure first.
After you changed the spark plugs with "cheaper" ones (or just the wrong model)? Use Bosch W8DC (0.7mm gap). or NGK BP5E-VG (0.6mm gap).

Is the car running hotter than usual?
1987 is not a spring chicken, so carbon build up is very possible.


Summoner got it right...
Remedies:
"preignition can generally be eliminated by proper spark plug selection, proper fuel/air mixture adjustment, and periodic cleaning of the combustion chambers i.e. decarbonasing"

@Velenoso:
Engine mountings won't keep shaking it for "about a second" after Ign/Off.

Yeah, probably not but it was worth a mention.

I agree, maybe change the spark plugs? It's cheap enough. Could fix it and won't hurt your car. Also take it for a good tune up to someone who knows that engine.
 
THanks - it started happening iirc about two months ago, just after we got it back from a blown head gasket. The mechanic fixed a few other things but then this problem started up. It doesn't run hot at all now - actually it stays very cool all the time.
 
THanks - it started happening iirc about two months ago, just after we got it back from a blown head gasket. The mechanic fixed a few other things but then this problem started up. It doesn't run hot at all now - actually it stays very cool all the time.

The ignition timing is out - it's too far advanced. 5 mins, a 10mm spanner, and a timing light will see you fixed up, no worries.
 
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