Problem with this roll is that the stuff is all throughout the roll it seems, I keep seeing black specks as it unrolls. Oh well, I'll run it through the sponge. Seems to working for now. Touch wood.
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3d Printers South Africa
- Thread starter Kwd1989
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Almost a liter of resin for a single print. Cool that the slicer (chitubox) allows you to create infill - drastically reduces material.
Also nice is the print time is mostly unaffected by X-Y additions, only Z makes a difference. This same print on FDM with a 0.8 nozzle at 0.2 layer height:
Also nice is the print time is mostly unaffected by X-Y additions, only Z makes a difference. This same print on FDM with a 0.8 nozzle at 0.2 layer height:
OFC the print speed would factor into the print time
With my Voron 2.4 I'm basically printing an entire build plate full (350x350) and it takes a day.
On my Ender 3 that would take multiple days, not counting that I would need separate prints.
With a 0.8 nozzle I'd already be sacrificing quality so the speed is about the max I'd want to consider as is. More just sharing for anyone toying with the idea of getting a (lcd) resin printer how the print time for 1 part vs 15 parts is basically the same whereas fdm the time is basically x15.OFC the print speed would factor into the print time
With my Voron 2.4 I'm basically printing an entire build plate full (350x350) and it takes a day.
On my Ender 3 that would take multiple days, not counting that I would need separate prints.
Of your printers - which is the fastest while still maintaining decent quality? Still looking for an fdm than can crank out smaller parts very fast.OFC the print speed would factor into the print time
With my Voron 2.4 I'm basically printing an entire build plate full (350x350) and it takes a day.
On my Ender 3 that would take multiple days, not counting that I would need separate prints.
Well I meant more like speed as in mm/s, nozzle is another way to speed up a print by having fewer layers
Voron 2.4, doing about 500mm/s @ 4k accelerations with higher quality than an Ender 3 V2 (modded).
I just use 0.4mm nozzle
My Ender 3 doesn't have resonance compensation so more ringing is expected (I don't think any Ender 3 supports this out of the box anyway).
I do have pressure advance enabled on my Ender 3 (none of the Ender 3 models can support this stock because they run their steppers in standalone mode).
So without those pressure advance and resonance compensation you pretty much sacrificing between print speed or print quality.
You can mod an Ender 3 but they use v-wheels which just limits you on speed (unless you are happy with an unreliable printer that doesn't have good quality).
Which means you end up spending a fortune replacing the mainboard (for steppers that run in UART mode instead of Standalone) and linear rails instead of v-wheels.
And then you still have the Ender 3 bed which is pretty low budget and almost always either warped from the factory or warps soon after because it isn't cast aluminium intended for constant heat cycling.
Point being, when you start down the Ender 3 modding path you basically building 90% of a new printer
AxField
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That’s cool!
I've been using this great design for a while but wanted more flexibility to support other spool sizes. I also found the tension to be a bit high on full heavier spools. I've modified the spool holder which seems to work well.For storing the filament I bought some cheap Tupperware-style plastic cake 'tins' at Pep. Think they were like R18 each or something. Standard 1kg filament rolls fit in them perfectly, like they was designed for it. Then I chuck in a packet or two of desiccant in each holder. Easier for me than having a big holder or bucket.
For one of my first designs I did, I remixed an existing design for a permanent solution for when I use the same colour for a long time (humidity is a bugger here at the coast), where I modified one of these cake tins. You can download and print from my Thingiverse page here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4939764
Basically all you need in addition to the printed parts (listed on my Thingierse design) are a few bolts and nuts, 2 x 608ZZ bearings (skateboard bearings, very easy and cheap to source from almost any automotive parts store or from DaVinciLabs @ R17 each) and a PC4 M6 Bowden Connector (really cheap from places like DaVincilabs/DIYElectronics - same as used to connect your Bowden tubes to the extruder. This helps to let the filament out smoothly, but at the same time minimizes air going in). I've printed 4 of them, and plan to do 2 more. So then I can have six colours ready. No faffing about replacing rolls on the spool holder, and I can leave one colour in the printer for weeks with no issues even if I'm not printing. Works really, really well. The design should work with almost any similar round plastic holder.
View attachment 1309738
For cleaning, I struggled using the included magnetic bed on my Ender 5 Pro. So I chucked it on advice from a different forum, and got myself 2 square pieces of normal 4mm mirror that I print directly on. Never looked back. No hairspray, nothing. Even did TPU on it over the weekend, and no adhesion issues. Clip it onto my printer bed with binder clips, so removes easily (just make sure the clips don't run into any printer parts when printing - I put the clips in the wrong place last weekend and managed to break my BL Touch mount off....).
Place the mirror with complete print to one side to allow it to cool, then the print comes off without any help (you can actually hear the PLA release with faint cracking sounds as it cools down). I then just clean my mirror with some hand sanitizer (medical grade, 90% isopropyl alcohol or just isopropyl alcohol - places like Mantech sell it in 1 litre bottles) and kitchen towel until I hear it squeaking under the towel. If I'm in a rush I just replace the glass bed immediately with the 2nd one I have waiting So I can start the next print on the fresh bed immediately, while I can allow the other print to cool and take my time to remove the print and clean the bed. Never used any soap and water until now.
Works for me.
Cake box drybox by slipx
I really liked the original design by @avk_27 but wanted a spindle that could accommodate other spools. This design replaces the spindle with the universal spool holder by rowokii. There are two knobs to cover the nuts on either end and a large washer for support. You'll also need a small...
www.thingiverse.com
Nice.I've been using this great design for a while but wanted more flexibility to support other spool sizes. I also found the tension to be a bit high on full heavier spools. I've modified the spool holder which seems to work well.
Cake box drybox by slipx
I really liked the original design by @avk_27 but wanted a spindle that could accommodate other spools. This design replaces the spindle with the universal spool holder by rowokii. There are two knobs to cover the nuts on either end and a large washer for support. You'll also need a small...
View attachment 1359845View attachment 1359847
Just caught your remix notification on Thingiverse.
Was telling my brother last week that I probably own the only non-leaking Landy in town.
InvisibleJim
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InvisibleJim
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I'm thinking about getting an entry level printer to hopefully do some projects with the kids - probably just print a few small toys from free models to start with. Budget would probably be +/- R5k for the printer but might stretch a couple of k more if SARS-a Claus is generous this year!
Does anybody have any recommendations or advice on anything to watch out for. I also see that there are now resin printers available in that price range which is quite appealing but I'm not sure if it would be better to go with a resin or filament printer to start with.
Does anybody have any recommendations or advice on anything to watch out for. I also see that there are now resin printers available in that price range which is quite appealing but I'm not sure if it would be better to go with a resin or filament printer to start with.
AfricanTech
Honorary Master
I am not sorry that I took advice from this thread and stretched to the price of the Ender 3 S1 rather than the slightly cheaper Ender 3 V2. All my research subsequently has shown that the improvements (both safety and ease of use) are well worth the extra money.
Also, be prepared to watch videos, read, learn, fiddle, test various settings and ask lots of questions - it's not 'plug and play' like a paper printer.
I have zero experience with resin printers so can't comment on that.
Tinuva
The Magician
Resin is a nasty business. It's basically working with paint, just much more working and lots of messy cleaning. Start with fdm before you jump into resin in my opinion. Watch resin videos ect before buying resin as your first printer