A question for electronics guys

Eish! You are reversing our gains of the revolution, once again, a device will alway draw the current that it needs.

Fun fact for you, my house supply is 60 amps yet I am able to plug a 2amp charger on it, what's up with that?
Eish. Not sure if you are joking or not . If not, sleep tight...
 
So the white plug below is from a B&D Dustbuster. The plug got fried by a lightning strike about 2 years ago. The Dustbuster is fine but obviously can’t charge anymore. Have never been able to find a replacement plug/charger and the Dustbuster sits in its base station all forlorn.

The black plug is from a cheapie POS cordless drill I won at golf. The drill stopped working years ago and landed up in the recycling heap.

Pottering around the garage today, I had an idea. I hooked up the black plug to the DB base and voila, it works and the DB is charging.

Question - I know that the plug power ratings are different. Is there any danger with my solution, fire, overheating, explosion, etc? It’s pretty much going to remain plugged in all the time?

38190c1de20c75c969976b6731b3b54c.jpg


f1c64b3e9a71b7d7e09647bb713a7849.jpg
Thanks all for the reponses..

I don't know what battery it is - there is nothing on the web or in the instruction manual. The instruction manual does say that the appliance can be left to charge on the base station indefinitely. Its a PV1805.

Avoid the noise in the responses. The advice from numerous knowledgeable respondents is correct.

The DB will draw the current it needs. The voltage is within the range of the original charger.
However, the Skill charger appears to be a constant voltage constant current device, with a maximum current draw of 200mA. There is nothing that will limit the current to 85 mA in the black charger, so to be safe, do NOT leave the DB connected to the charger, but remove it after about 8 - 10 hours. Check the device and the charger regularly and disconnect if either is hot to the touch.


Send B&D an email. They are very helpful and will respond. You might find that there is a newer model DB with a compatible power supply. I see the charge time of the newer models is as low as 4 hours, with the older ones having a charge time of as long as 24 hours.
The B&D website recognises the PV 1805 but finds no info, suggesting that B & D itself may still have info available on that model just not accessible to the public.
http://2helpu.com/BD/ZA/en-GB/ContactUs
 
Last edited:
Avoid the noise in the responses. The advice from numerous knowledgeable respondents is correct.

The DB will draw the current it needs. The voltage is within the range of the original charger.
However, the Skill charger appears to be a constant voltage constant current device, with a maximum current draw of 200mA. There is nothing that will limit the current to 85 mA in the black charger, so to be safe, do NOT leave the DB connected to the charger, but remove it after about 8 - 10 hours. Check the device and the charger regularly and disconnect if either is hot to the touch.


Send B&D an email. They are very helpful and will respond. You might find that there is a newer model DB with a compatible power supply. I see the charge time of the newer models is as low as 4 hours, with the older ones having a charge time of as long as 24 hours.
The B&D website recognises the PV 1805 but finds no info, suggesting that B & D itself may still have info available on that model just not accessible to the public.
http://2helpu.com/BD/ZA/en-GB/ContactUs
BD will want you to buy a new one. Use as now and when the battery goes, open it and replace the battery.
 
No, I have managed to get spares for very old B&D drills before by getting hold of them directly and asking to speak to a technician or engineer.

Compare your model to the existing ones available on their webpage. and then look at the spares available for that one and see how similar they are.
 
A device will always draw the current it needs. Electronics 101.
Genetics logic: a battery = an electronic device, therefore Electronics 101 theory of current applies.

Daft af.
Try again genuis
 
Last edited:
Genetics logic: a battery = an electronic device, therefore Electronics 101 theory of current applies.

Daft af.

Try again genuis :D


There are still some components in the DB which "control" the battery charging process. It is possible( none of us can be sure) that some or other battery management is in place that will limit the current.
So the claim is NOT unreasonable at all. The only way to be absolutely sure is to have a look at the manual or spec sheet which is not available.
 
There are still some components in the DB which "control" the battery charging process. It is possible( none of us can be sure) that some or other battery management is in place that will limit the current.
So the claim is NOT unreasonable at all. The only way to be absolutely sure is to have a look at the manual or spec sheet which is not available.

Another genuis on the thread then.

The only thing hopefully protecting the dustbuster is how low the VA is of the drill's charger. Assuming "Electronics 101 a device only draws what it needs" when charging a battery with hazy voltage requirements and which almost certainly has a very rudimentary bms is a recipe for failure if not disaster. There's also no doubt a good reason they only specified 85mA for the original charger.

From my experience these budget wallwart chargers often output a significantly higher voltage than they are specified to, just to add some spice to the mix.

Hopefully the op doesn't burn down the house. He shouldn't worry though Geoff and Genetic can help him rebuild
 
Eish. So many people here not knowing what they are talking about. The device is the drill and not the battery. Drawing the necessary current is only applicable to the device and NOT the battery. The battery will draw whatever current the resistance of the circuit allows up to what the power source can supply.

Here's my take on it. The original charger can supply up to 24V. This extra voltage above 7.2V is necessary to "push" power into the battery but it also gets converted to heat. This is compounded by the current applied. With the 15V supply it's 7.8V where with the 24V it's 16.8V. So you may just get by safely at slightly more than double the current but I wouldn't leave it plugged in constantly.

Btw, battery circuitry usually doesn't regulate current as that's very complicated but only cuts it off under certain conditions. It's not a failsafe.
 
Eish. So many people here not knowing what they are talking about. The device is the drill and not the battery. Drawing the necessary current is only applicable to the device and NOT the battery. The battery will draw whatever current the resistance of the circuit allows up to what the power source can supply.

Here's my take on it. The original charger can supply up to 24V. This extra voltage above 7.2V is necessary to "push" power into the battery but it also gets converted to heat. This is compounded by the current applied. With the 15V supply it's 7.8V where with the 24V it's 16.8V. So you may just get by safely at slightly more than double the current but I wouldn't leave it plugged in constantly.

Btw, battery circuitry usually doesn't regulate current as that's very complicated but only cuts it off under certain conditions. It's not a failsafe.
It would seem that you have a problem READING what others post.
Tell me what is so different about your post when compared to Genetics post and mine? Apart from the BS about voltage differences that is in your post of course.

The device is a small hand held vacuum cleaner. They draw quite low currents anyway. The Skil products are quite good quality.
The charger in the skil has quite a bit of protection. I know because I have one.
I also provided some safety advice re checking the device for overheating and not leaving it on for longer than 10 hours.
And then suggested that OP contact B&D.
So shove your BS where it fits best.
 
Last edited:
It would seem that you have a problem READING what others post.
Tell me what is so different about your post when compared to Genetics post and mine? Apart from the BS about voltage differences that is in your post of course.

The device is a small hand held vacuum cleaner. They draw quite low currents anyway. The Skill products are quite good quality.
The charger in the skill has quite a it of protection. I know because I have one.
I also provided some safety advice re checking the device for overheating and not leaving it on for longer than 10 hours.
And then suggested that OP contact B&D.
So shove your BS where it fits best.

Lol, getting owned by Swa.
 
It would seem that you have a problem READING what others post.
Tell me what is so different about your post when compared to Genetics post and mine? Apart from the BS about voltage differences that is in your post of course.

The device is a small hand held vacuum cleaner. They draw quite low currents anyway. The Skil products are quite good quality.
The charger in the skil has quite a bit of protection. I know because I have one.
I also provided some safety advice re checking the device for overheating and not leaving it on for longer than 10 hours.
And then suggested that OP contact B&D.
So shove your BS where it fits best.
It would seem that you're the one with the problem. Battery packs aren't the device. They can draw quite large amounts of current if available. The protection in them is also not that good and mostly around intended use. It will cut off the current when the battery is full or when it overheats but that's usually about it and it's neither a failsafe nor prevents deterioration.
 
The model referred to does NOT have an external battery pack. It is integral to the device in this case.
The particular model was designed to be stored in the charger cradle permanently connected and always ready to go. Hence the low charging current of 85 mA.
 
You miss the point. External or not doesn't matter. An external ps just has an extra connector.

What you're doing here is referring to protection in a charger that was designed for a different battery and charging protection in a battery that was designed for a different charger.
 
The white adaptor is a self sensing variable voltage power supply. the black one not. It might work but most probably damage the device. IE overheat. The current rating is the constant maximum the powersupply should supply.
 
You miss the point. External or not doesn't matter. An external ps just has an extra connector.

What you're doing here is referring to protection in a charger that was designed for a different battery and charging protection in a battery that was designed for a different charger.
The point of this thread was what the risks are of overcharging.
I can't speak for genetics but I clearly stated what OP must do if he wants to use the charger to charge the BD.
Nothing more and nothing less. Charge the BD but monitor the device for over heating. Don't leave it connected for longer than 8 to 10 hours.
All these pedantic arguments are just a lot of noise defocussing attention.
 
Last edited:
Which is what I said. I was just pointing out the misconception that the device will draw only what it needs as it's not about the device but the battery. And also the notion that protection means anything when you're mixing incompatible devices.
 
You failed to notice that both myself and genetics did point out the same. So all you could have done was agree instead of trying to imply we did not know what we were talking about.
I clearly made the point that the Skil charger is probably a constant voltage constant current device. And that the BD itself probably has limited current limiting capabilities. which BTW I have since confirmed AND since confirmed that model will probably not suffer damage if not charged continuously.
So Genetics and myself are okay with our statements.
 
Top
Sign up to the MyBroadband newsletter
X