Canon Custom Modes Tip

I see the usefulness you are seeking. Canon unfortunately has you stuck out in the cold. Did you know the 1DIII doesn't even have Auto ISOl? I suppose it all comes down to user demand.
Funny enough while they may not have given it a button or labelled a menu option "AutoISO" but they do seem to have made the functionality available.
 
Funny enough while they may not have given it a button or labelled a menu option "AutoISO" but they do seem to have made the functionality available.
Can you elaborate? I think you will find that there are no Automatic ISO settings on the 1DIII. Except under preset conditions such as Highlight Priority Mode where 200 ISO is the minimum.
 
Can you elaborate? I think you will find that there are no Automatic ISO settings on the 1DIII. Except under preset conditions such as Highlight Priority Mode where 200 ISO is the minimum.
C.Fn I -8 enable 2. Safety Shift.
2: Enable (ISO speed)
This works in the Program AE, shutter-priority AE, and aperture-priority
AE modes. When the subject’s brightness changes erratically and the
correct autoexposure cannot be obtained, the camera will change the
ISO speed within 100 - 3200 automatically to obtain a correct exposure.
It seems to be to mimic much of what a dedicated AutoISO function would?
 
I never said it was a limitation of the camera, I said motion blur was because of shutter speed being too slow. It's not that I'm saying a photographer can't be the fault for this. There are however numerous situations where a photographer risks unwanted motion blur through no fault of their own. So no, motion blur is not by default, the fault of the photographer. Agreed?
No. It's technique that's required, the camera can do nothing about that.

Thanks, you have convoluted my words for arguments sake and came back to what I obviously meant :rolleyes:
I am a sort of a teacher, so I read what is written fairly literally, and then interpret what I've read accordingly, so don't see any convolution as I quoted what you said.

Nice results. If you shot the Owl hand-held you deserve a medal! Did you try catching it in flight at that shutter speed?
Thanks. The owl was taken by resting the lens on the door of my bakkie - I didn't have time to set up any support system.

I'm not into birds in flight, but have done some. (For panning, you have to switch off some of the IS anyway.)





(both at 500mm, both handheld, but at good shutterspeeds)
 
Thanks, nice to know, I am corrected.
Glad to have been of help. I only stumbled across it because I was googling while waiting for the battery to finish its initial charge since they hadnt supplied a English language manual.
 
Did you know the 1DIII doesn't even have Auto ISOl?

I don't own one, so no. I do know that the D3/D3X do though.

I would disagree that Exposure Bias is perfect for the job. You're depending on your camera meter to find a relative exposure, each time you move the camera even slightly you risk changing the meter reading, no matter what Metering Mode you're in.

I can hold the camera still enough to keep the same framing. And even so, AE-lock button:

"Use AE lock when the area of focus is to be different from the exposure metering area..."

So how are you ever going to 'know' when your camera has got it 100% right? Whereas, if shooting Manual, you would meter the scene using one of a number of basic techniques to find a fixed correct exposure.

I'm not sure which techniques you are referring to, but all the ones I know are approximate - not precise enough for the kind of minute change you describe above (considering the fairly static scene). So your question applies for M too.
 
"highlight tone priority" mode in the CF . . . any user experiences?
I haven't played with it, but you lose ISO100. I also don't like the statement:

"With setting 1, noise in the shadow areas may be slightly more than usual."

It may be worthwhile to try it with some not so important subjects (such as your Cats [not the furry one ;)]) to see what it does.
 
WRT Auto ISO on the 1dMk3, I was taking bird pics with a couple of guys who were comparing the Auto ISO of the 1dMk3 and the 40d, and from what came out of the conversation (and lots of button pressing on both cams) is that the 1dMk3 is prolly exactly what Koffie is looking for in Auto ISO. The 40d is very limited in this respect as we've all come to understand.
 
WRT Auto ISO on the 1dMk3, I was taking bird pics with a couple of guys who were comparing the Auto ISO of the 1dMk3 and the 40d, and from what came out of the conversation (and lots of button pressing on both cams) is that the 1dMk3 is prolly exactly what Koffie is looking for in Auto ISO. The 40d is very limited in this respect as we've all come to understand.
That was my reason for resurrecting this thread after two months of inactivity. :D
I haven't played with it, but you lose ISO100. I also don't like the statement:

"With setting 1, noise in the shadow areas may be slightly more than usual."

It may be worthwhile to try it with some not so important subjects (such as your Cats [not the furry one ;)]) to see what it does.
Yeah - I've got a couple of links to check out and I'll definitely be doing some tests when I come up with a decent test.

I also lose ISO 50.
 
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No. It's technique that's required, the camera can do nothing about that.

there are tonnes of inadequate light situations where no technique will ever be a guarantee. I can see you are outright refusing to see my point of view, and I am just annoyed by yours, although I sense we are just trying to express the same thing in different ways, so whatever...
I am a sort of a teacher, so I read what is written fairly literally, and then interpret what I've read accordingly, so don't see any convolution as I quoted what you said.

ok sort of teacher, thanks

Thanks. The owl was taken by resting the lens on the door of my bakkie - I didn't have time to set up any support system.

static object, static camera, the image is not relevant.

I'm not into birds in flight, but have done some. (For panning, you have to switch off some of the IS anyway.)

true, it only senses for lateral motion, therefore not always ideal. The new Canon Hybrid system senses for Vertical, Lateral and now, angular motion. Will be interesting to see how this fares in the next generation Canon's telephoto lens and for the new 100mm macro, definitely on my watchlist. I love my existing 100mm 2.8 macro, so to have IS will be a great bonus and will hopefully compliment my technique

See you guys, would love to waste time debating more, going away for a week.

Bwana, congrats on your 1D purchase! Happy Shooting.
 
Bwana, congrats on your 1D purchase! Happy Shooting.
Thanks - the upgrade was a long time coming and pretty substantial so I intend to get all I can from it.

Enjoy the week away.
 
I haven't played with it, but you lose ISO100. I also don't like the statement:

"With setting 1, noise in the shadow areas may be slightly more than usual."

It may be worthwhile to try it with some not so important subjects (such as your Cats [not the furry one ;)]) to see what it does.
Maybe I'm not coming up with the right test but I'm not seeing any difference between having it on or off.
 
Maybe I'm not coming up with the right test but I'm not seeing any difference between having it on or off.
Then again it could be that I was comparing two images with it activated. Better try again.
 
yeah I've heard there's hardy any deference with the Canons when you have that on
I [-]just[/-] finally took a couple photos where it is actually noticeable - where's the best place to upload the cr2s? quickshare has a 10mb cap.
 
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I [-]just[/-] finally took a couple photos where it is actually noticeable - where's the best place to upload the cr2s? quickshare has a 10mb cap.

If you e-mail it to me I'll make it downloadable for ldmelsa.
 
Yeah, there's definitely a difference. I like that shot better with it off though. I thought it was ment to avoid blowing highlights, but in the shot with it off, the highlights aren't even at the right end of the histogram. :confused:
 
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