Cape Town - Solar Install Quotation

[Adhvik]

My view is that for you go for a bigger 20/16 freedom won battery as you will need to be flexible and the bms works well with Sunsynk. If I were you, negotiate your with your installer that they either reduce the price of these 2 components or you buy it yourself as a free issue for them to install. If it's a registered installer, you can still register your system warranty with Sunsynk and Freedom won

 

[Mike Hoxbig]

My view is that for you go for a bigger 20/16 freedom won battery as you will need to be flexible and the bms works well with Sunsynk. If I were you, negotiate your with your installer that they either reduce the price of these 2 components or you buy it yourself as a free issue for them to install. If it's a registered installer, you can still register your system warranty with Sunsynk and Freedom won

The issue with going for one big battery is you put all your eggs in one basket. If that battery goes, that's it. Going modular adds redundancy so the rest of the bank still works.

The other issue is scalability. If you need to add only 5 kWh and your battery is 20 kWh, you'll need to add another 20 kWh. Scaling a big battery is inefficient and expensive...

 

[SauRoNZA]

Leaning towards 2 x Dyness Powerbox F-7.5 (7.2kWh) batteries.

This website is no longer available - but get your own

Website coming soon by Kwikwap.co.za

www.dynessbattery.co.za

The 2 x 9.6kWh is just stretching me a bit too far right now which would mean waiting until SARS gives me money in July, which could mean better pricing but could also mean worse.

The only concern I have then is that these can only be paralleled in 3 units which means I’ll be maxed out at 3 x 7.2 kWh.

At the same time I can’t see how I’ll ever need more than that, or if I’ll ever even need 20+ in the first place so it seems a logical option to start at 15ish.

Install it with space for a third to be dropped in easily should I want it and then see how things go and add it later should I need it.

If I don’t need it then I see a nice new recliner in my future.

Or I go the other extreme and put just a single 9.6 in for the time being. But I question if I’ll not murder the battery by draining it entirely every day then and affect it in the longer term.

 

[neoprema]

What does your power consumption look like and how are you finding it?

It’s currently so so. During load shedding tonight then batteries hardly took a knock at all.
However we also need to change some habits. We wasted almost half a day of sun power because we usually don’t run anything in the afternoon. Then at night ran dishwasher and pool pump and washing machine which ate into battery and eskom

So I’m changing some things. From tomorrow the pool pump will only run in the afternoon for 4 hours not at night. If someone isn’t home to start the dishwasher I’ll program it in the morning to come on around 11 or so.

 

[Adhvik]

The issue with going for one big battery is you put all your eggs in one basket. If that battery goes, that's it. Going modular adds redundancy so the rest of the bank still works.

The other issue is scalability. If you need to add only 5 kWh and your battery is 20 kWh, you'll need to add another 20 kWh. Scaling a big battery is inefficient and expensive...

Hi. Good point - Scalability to opt for a modular system gives greater flexibility. By the way - has anyone opted to buy these batteries and inverters cheaper and managed get the certified installers do the installation successfully? As there is an opportunity to save buying upfront - has there been any benefit?

 

[shadow_man]

Hi. Good point - Scalability to opt for a modular system gives greater flexibility. By the way - has anyone opted to buy these batteries and inverters cheaper and managed get the certified installers do the installation successfully? As there is an opportunity to save buying upfront - has there been any benefit?

You'll save on cost sure - but do you really want an installer dragging their feet on callouts / warranty when it's kit you bought yourself, just to save a few pennies?

I'd only do it if YOU KNOW what you're doing AND the installer will honour the warranty (and this is the tricky party, you can register it - it will have warranty - but will they jump in their car to prove it's the issue when **** hits the fan is another question? - and my feeling is no, they won't - as you bought it on the cheap and it's not their problem).

 

[DuracellBunny]

You'll save on cost sure - but do you really want an installer dragging their feet on callouts / warranty when it's kit you bought yourself, just to save a few pennies?

I'd only do it if YOU KNOW what you're doing AND the installer will honour the warranty (and this is the tricky party, you can register it - it will have warranty - but will they jump in their car to prove it's the issue when **** hits the fan is another question? - and my feeling is no, they won't - as you bought it on the cheap and it's not their problem).

Or the installer is MIA that initially did it

Got a customer that went with a MIA sparky this was his first solar install because DC cabling on the roof coming in is just joined crimped and wrapped in electrical tape, No MC4 or water proof protection. Big no no. This customer has called in a few times asking for inverter settings and so on. So when things did get worse, Spoke to my sparky in JHB to get sent out because her person that they have is MIA. When he sent me pictures. It was horrific.

2 sets of DC cables, 1 connected to the inverter and the other pair just laying there,with the ends wrapped in electrical tape. Only AC breakers on the DC side.

4 X US3000 batteries was completely drained past their safety and the BMS is in fault mode and completely cuts off the power from the terminals. Now the original installer is no where to be seen and my sparky cant do anything till the batteries are sorted out, which was done got the serials and had them sent back to the supplier. Sometimes if you have a good reseller willing to help and electrician that's willing to do another persons job to get it to safety spec. You wont need to worry if your warranty will be honored, even if the sparky is MIA.

 

[shadow_man]

Or the installer is MIA that initially did it

Got a customer that went with a MIA sparky this was his first solar install because DC cabling on the roof coming in is just joined crimped and wrapped in electrical tape, No MC4 or water proof protection. Big no no. This customer has called in a few times asking for inverter settings and so on. So when things did get worse, Spoke to my sparky in JHB to get sent out because her person that they have is MIA. When he sent me pictures. It was horrific.

2 sets of DC cables, 1 connected to the inverter and the other pair just laying there,with the ends wrapped in electrical tape. Only AC breakers on the DC side.

4 X US3000 batteries was completely drained past their safety and the BMS is in fault mode and completely cuts off the power from the terminals. Now the original installer is no where to be seen and my sparky cant do anything till the batteries are sorted out, which was done got the serials and had them sent back to the supplier. Sometimes if you have a good reseller willing to help and electrician that's willing to do another persons job to get it to safety spec. You wont need to worry if your warranty will be honored, even if the sparky is MIA.

Eish - that's a lot of "sometimes" and luck involved. I prefer to avoid "goedkoop is duurkoop" myself . Unless I'm not a layman and I can cover it myself.

Save a few randela's on the batteries / inverter and kak off later when you have an issue....

 

[itareanlnotani]

.

 

[DuracellBunny]

Eish - that's a lot of "sometimes" and luck involved. I prefer to avoid "goedkoop is duurkoop" myself . Unless I'm not a layman and I can cover it myself.

Save a few randela's on the batteries / inverter and kak off later when you have an issue....

Yes alot of sometimes. . . Give the correct settings for it to be changed by them later on thinking they will get more power from their panels or get the batteries to charge up faster, even after warning, not to get a sparky with no knowledge of how these things work.

 

[sjm]

You'll save on cost sure - but do you really want an installer dragging their feet on callouts / warranty when it's kit you bought yourself, just to save a few pennies?

I'd only do it if YOU KNOW what you're doing AND the installer will honour the warranty (and this is the tricky party, you can register it - it will have warranty - but will they jump in their car to prove it's the issue when **** hits the fan is another question? - and my feeling is no, they won't - as you bought it on the cheap and it's not their problem).

My installer quoted me for the entire installation, but I paid the suppliers direct. I therefore got the supplies cheaper than retail (most were from PowerForumStore and my total bill was a few thousand cheaper than configuring the exact same specs on their website). Even though I paid the suppliers directly, he still holds the warranty and will be responsible for any issues.

 

[ADrunkTeddyBear]

My installer quoted me for the entire installation, but I paid the suppliers direct. I therefore got the supplies cheaper than retail (most were from PowerForumStore and my total bill was a few thousand cheaper than configuring the exact same specs on their website). Even though I paid the suppliers directly, he still holds the warranty and will be responsible for any issues.

I bought everything myself. My installer still offers support on everything, But I have to deal with warranty myself which I dont mind

 

[Chris.Geerdts]

I'm taking the plunge on Monday morning - with what seem to be typical for many forumites : sunsynk 5kw, Hubble 5.5kWH

I'll have 10 x 460W JA panels. in 2 strings (East / West). There are some large trees on the east/west which I appreciate but don't help with the panels much.

Consumption has been around 550-650kWh/pm so I'm going for a partial solution - certainly in deep winter.

I have a gas hob and solar geyser

I got help from Steve@Powerforum. He's overworked so I've had to wait a while but will let you know how it goes.

Price, with installer and CoCT, is R124k.

I had a generator before so I'll also be hooking that in. I decided that after looking at those Eskom capacity availability % trends over the years.

 

[itareanlnotani]

I'm taking the plunge on Monday morning - with what seem to be typical for many forumites : sunsynk 5kw, Hubble 5.5kWH

I'll have 10 x 460W JA panels. in 2 strings (East / West). There are some large trees on the east/west which I appreciate but don't help with the panels much.

Consumption has been around 550-650kWh/pm so I'm going for a partial solution - certainly in deep winter.

I have a gas hob and solar geyser

I got help from Steve@Powerforum. He's overworked so I've had to wait a while but will let you know how it goes.

Price, with installer and CoCT, is R124k.

I had a generator before so I'll also be hooking that in. I decided that after looking at those Eskom capacity availability % trends over the years.

With a small system like yours I'd suggest take a look at SSEG feedback.

The costs have changed (or are about to), so might be interesting for you to look into.

I've put a post up here with more details -

SSEG Pricing in 2022 – Has Cape Town seen the light? | Going Solar

 

[RonSwanson]

I'm taking the plunge on Monday morning - with what seem to be typical for many forumites : sunsynk 5kw, Hubble 5.5kWH

I'll have 10 x 460W JA panels. in 2 strings (East / West). There are some large trees on the east/west which I appreciate but don't help with the panels much.

Consumption has been around 550-650kWh/pm so I'm going for a partial solution - certainly in deep winter.

I have a gas hob and solar geyser

I got help from Steve@Powerforum. He's overworked so I've had to wait a while but will let you know how it goes.

Price, with installer and CoCT, is R124k.

I had a generator before so I'll also be hooking that in. I decided that after looking at those Eskom capacity availability % trends over the years.

Good call. Steve may be overworked, but his insight, advice and integrity is legendary, well worth the wait IMHO.
I hooked my genny up at more or less the same time as the install, I combined it with the install of my second set panels because it was cheaper that way. Although I have never had to use it practically, I do test it every 4-6 months and rotate fuel. There are some dark weeks and months ahead, you won't be sorry if you get the installer to hook it up properly to either the Aux port of the Sunsynk or the classic way with a changeover switch on the grid side.

 

[SauRoNZA]

I have taken the plunge.

Kit arriving on Friday and installed next Monday if all goes to plan.

I’ll make a separate thread for it when stuff arrives.

In the meanwhile how would you guys who about fitting the Sunsynk and 3 x Dyness batteries?

They reckon they can trim down the plaster below the DB (all electrics going up) but it seems like unnecessary work to me.

Is there any reason the 3 x batteries couldn’t go sideways? Then stack all three in the right side up by the corner and the Sunsynk goes left of it.

Also less visible from the road should I leave it open.

Might be weird if I put a 4th in down the line though.

So I wondered about maybe just putting them all in line at the bottom from the right going left and then I have space to easily add the fourth later and the Sunsynk just goes below the DB.

 

[SauRoNZA]

Actually I just realised the Sunsynk could fit in next to the prepaid meter as it’s a 45cm gap and it’s 42cm wide.

Maybe good to then have it at a reasonable height and all the connections can come out the bottom.

 

[Mike Hoxbig]

Actually I just realised the Sunsynk could fit in next to the prepaid meter as it’s a 45cm gap and it’s 42cm wide.

Maybe good to then have it at a reasonable height and all the connections can come out the bottom.

They advise a 500mm gap on the left for the fans to vent. You'll need to make sure the meter doesn't obstruct them...

 

[SauRoNZA]

They advise a 500mm gap on the left for the fans to vent. You'll need to make sure the meter doesn't obstruct them...

They sit at the bottom don’t they?

But yeah that should just be a case of going you or down. And it’s still an open air space I reckon not like a cupboard or something.

Will definitely keep it in mind.

 

[RonSwanson]

I have taken the plunge.

Kit arriving on Friday and installed next Monday if all goes to plan.

I’ll make a separate thread for it when stuff arrives.

In the meanwhile how would you guys who about fitting the Sunsynk and 3 x Dyness batteries?

They reckon they can trim down the plaster below the DB (all electrics going up) but it seems like unnecessary work to me.

Is there any reason the 3 x batteries couldn’t go sideways? Then stack all three in the right side up by the corner and the Sunsynk goes left of it.

Also less visible from the road should I leave it open.

Might be weird if I put a 4th in down the line though.

So I wondered about maybe just putting them all in line at the bottom from the right going left and then I have space to easily add the fourth later and the Sunsynk just goes below the DB.

If it was my place, I'd get rid of the old kitchen cupboards. Inverter to the left of the DB, remember that the display should be at eye level when you are in your slippers (and jarmies).
Batteries below. Not sure how waterproof your garage door is, but I would start out at the left and populate towards the right.
Battery fuses between the two (remember that DC is separated from AC). Switchgear can fit to the right, above and below the existing DB. I agree with your installer, it's a good great idea to trim the plaster, it's cute and a nice touch when you have few boxen, but it becomes a pain when you consider that there are a whole lot more in a solar install. Don't forget a dedicated plug and circuit for the prepaid meter, and possibly a genny input for the Aux.