Car Sound Problem

1

123Eish

Senior Member
Joined
Feb 21, 2010
Messages
672
Reaction score
44
Location
Johannesburg
Hi guys

I recently decided to upgrade my sound setup in my car but I'm having a problem.

This is what is installed a star sound monoblock amp it's rated to put out 1300rms at 1ohm to the subs, the subs are two pioneer 400rms dvc subs each, they are wired at 1ohm in parallel to the amp.

Then I have another amp 4ch star sound for the other normal 6.5inch speakers and 6x9 no problem here.

I have a 4 gauge wire running from the battery to the boot, in the engine bay iv got a 80amp fuse, it's one of those double fuses that you get at the fleamarket so, I basically fed the battery cable into the input and then bridged the second out put with the first output, I'm no auto electrician but wouldn't this give me 160amps on the fuse in total, 80 per fuse.

Then the 4 gauge cable runs to the back of the car, into another double fuse same as what's in the engine bay, one output goes to the monoblock and the other to the 4ch. Then out into the amps with 4gauge wire.

Here's the problem the fuse in the engine bay remains cold it doesn't get hot besides the engine heat making it warm. But the one in the boot specifically the output of the fuse which goes to the monoblock gets really hot, you can't touch it. But the output going to the 4ch of the same fuse is cold.

Problem one above bow here's problem two:

The amp plays really nice hard bass perfect for me, but if I increase the volume past say 40 on the deck the amp shuts off, the monoblock amp, the other stays on. The amp does not go into protection mode or show any warning light it just dies, then if I put the deck of for say five minutes it starts working again. I presume this is a power problem and the amp is shutting down because of maybe a voltage drop. I say voltage drop, because my lights in the car dim, and so does the instruments on the steering wheel as well.

What could be done to fix this problem, my battery is only about a year old, should I do a big three upgrade, capacitor bigger battery. I'm also looking for a cost effective solution.

If any of the components I'm using is incorrect, please could you specify the correct components and where I should purchase them, and if I need a capacitor, what type and how much far ads should it be


Thanks in advance guys
 
Do people still do these sort of things?

It seems like Primrose didn't get the memo :)
 
monoblock pulling too much juice. i would just get a bigger battery. capacitor will either not help much or not at all.

just check if your alternator can handle it.
 
@mac yes people still do this, I drive a golf 3, which does not come with a Boss or fosgate system like some of the more newer luxury cars, thus an amp and subs is a cost effective alternative.
 
stricken said:
monoblock pulling too much juice. i would just get a bigger battery. capacitor will either not help much or not at all.

just check if your alternator can handle it.
Click to expand...

I have a spare battery could I not install this in the boot? instead of buying a new bigger battery?
 
Tremayn said:
@mac yes people still do this, I drive a golf 3, which does not come with a Boss or fosgate system like some of the more newer luxury cars, thus an amp and subs is a cost effective alternative.
Click to expand...

Jokes ;)
 
I would suggest both bigger battery (no stock battery can handle all that current) and a cap to assist the battery when these huge bass hits put sudden demands on the battery. I would also take a good look at the negative cable of the monoblock, as it should be same guage as the positive and ideally run back to the battery. A short thin cable to the body, would not do, with the sort of currenta monoblock needs to cope with. This might explain the hot fuse.
 
Try rev the car at about 2.5-3K in neutral then turn it past 40 and see what it does.
 
Thanks for all the reply, I'm going to take the car to a sound fitment center and get their opinion after looking at the situation and problems
 
Add extra Ground wires. (on both the battery and amp sides.)
4 Gauge is also way to light. At least 0 gauge. Cables need to be capable of 200A+.
Also , your mono block sounds too light. I had a 3000 or 5000W amp in a similar DVC 1 ohm setup.
All 4 coils need to be parallel to get to 1ohm. The Pioneers are 4ohm a coil.

Get rid of the 6x9's. They are crap. Replace with another set of 6.5" split system or 8" limpids. :D
 
A fuse that is hot but does not blow, only means one thing!!! A poor connection somewhere close.
4 AWG is good for around 140Amps.
Now 12V x 140A = 1680W

If possable, why not run a pair (pos + neg) of 4 AWG wires for each amp from the battery at the front.
This way you will reduce the volt drop to each device.
 
The amp is 1 ohm stable, but you've got it driving two 1-ohm speakers in parallel?
That's no good as the impedance of the speaker circuit is now 0.5 ohms.
That aside, the fact that your lights dim tells me you want a big capacitor and an uprated alternator.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top
Sign up to the MyBroadband newsletter
X