Fascia replacement and repair

rh1

rh1

Honorary Master
Joined
Aug 5, 2011
Messages
17,180
Reaction score
19,823
Location
Somewhere close to you
See pic:
IMG_20250419_105240_223.jpg


Bought a fascia board, comfortable performing the required mitre cuts. Attaching is also straight forward, will prep the fascia board today and paint it white. I will also sand and paint my whole house fascia boards with the same white roof paint from Plascon.

My question is what the best way preventing/delaying this from happening again?

Do I leave a small gap and caulk with silicone? Do I butt it tight and maybe use some wood glue?
 
When I replaced the gutters, the quote included sanding and painting of the fascia boards which did not happen. I still have not paid the company the remaining 10%.
 
rh1 said:
See pic:
View attachment 1814253


Bought a fascia board, comfortable performing the required mitre cuts. Attaching is also straight forward, will prep the fascia board today and paint it white. I will also sand and paint my whole house fascia boards with the same white roof paint from Plascon.

My question is what the best way preventing/delaying this from happening again?

Do I leave a small gap and caulk with silicone? Do I butt it tight and maybe use some wood glue?
Click to expand...
Looks to me like the damage is caused by the gutter leaking at the join, causing water damage to the facia. I'd double check this, seal the gutter properly. Then normal exterior wood treatment to the new facia should work perfectly.
 
You made me go and inspect mine as well, luckily all is well there for now.

There is a leaky gutter that I had forgotten about, so thanks for this post haha.

I have however requested quotes to have my barge boards sanded and varnished, but ended up having fiber cement (nutec?) boards painted and attached to the existing barge boards.

Similiar to this, just pained brown to match the rest of the house.

1000164086.jpg
 
The Darkness said:
Looks to me like the damage is caused by the gutter leaking at the join, causing water damage to the facia. I'd double check this, seal the gutter properly. Then normal exterior wood treatment to the new facia should work perfectly.
Click to expand...
Yes, the gutter people did a terrible job, I have already scraped the old silicone and drilled out the rivets so that I can remove the gutter and replace fascia boards and reseal and re rivet.
 
Stephan Maritz said:
You made me go and inspect mine as well, luckily all is well there for now.

There is a leaky gutter that I had forgotten about, so thanks for this post haha.

I have however requested quotes to have my barge boards sanded and varnished, but ended up having fiber cement (nutec?) boards painted and attached to the existing barge boards.

Similiar to this, just pained brown to match the rest of the house.

View attachment 1814259
Click to expand...
How much per metre did they charge labour and parts?
 
No way you could seal the wood properly. Water will always come in at joints or where nails/screws are.
The problem is, where that piece of wood is, it should not get any water and last long. So sort out the gutter and roof on top of it.
Also silicon does not last long, especially on metal and in sun.
I would rather try Alu waterproofing tape on the inside of gutter where you cant see it.
And then go stand there when its raining and make sure there is no leak. The seal might not be the problem. It might be water coming between gutter and roof or even those gutters are not build properly and its making a dam and overflow.
 
  • Like
Reactions: rh1
rh1 said:
How much per metre did they charge labour and parts?
Click to expand...
Well total was R5.5k, about 6 hours of work. Painting was the most of the time.

It was the barge boards at the front of my house, the one side, and also at the porch outside. If I had to guess, 25-30m in total.

The only other quotes I could get were around the same numbers, give or take R200 or so, but this guy was available two days later.

I am aware that this is not expensive materials, and although I am moderately DIY proficient, this is not a job for me.
 
  • Like
Reactions: rh1
RedViking said:
Paint won't do then. Sand it. Oil/varnish it nicely. Then paint it. I don't know what I'm talking about.
Click to expand...
I think it would be better to put some sort of primer on, rather than varnish, to paint on. (I also don't know what I'm talking about). All in all, painting seems more expensive, but that's the price to pay for new work to match existing I suppose.
 
Stephan Maritz said:
I think it would be better to put some sort of primer on, rather than varnish, to paint on. (I also don't know what I'm talking about). All in all, painting seems more expensive, but that's the price to pay for new work to match existing I suppose.
Click to expand...
I dont have wood primer, when I bought the fascia board, the hardware guys said I just need roof paint. But when I ask and google, it became clear I need wood primer. In hindsight it makes sense, I was just dumb at that moment in time, I forgot the golden rule, hardware place rarely know as much as Mybb. Waiting for payday and will buy the correct pink primer.
 
rh1 said:
See pic:
View attachment 1814253


Bought a fascia board, comfortable performing the required mitre cuts. Attaching is also straight forward, will prep the fascia board today and paint it white. I will also sand and paint my whole house fascia boards with the same white roof paint from Plascon.

My question is what the best way preventing/delaying this from happening again?

Do I leave a small gap and caulk with silicone? Do I butt it tight and maybe use some wood glue?
Click to expand...

That wood might be under the gutter, which would be a pain to remove the gutter then sort the wood out...
If you can sort the wood out then it might not be rotten, most likely CCA.. in fact if you didn't buy CCA 4 or 5 or pressure treated (too expensive) then turn around and go back to the shop!
Your wood might be ok, its the paint that's peeling. CCA is good for 20 years+

Anyway, just paint some waterproof sealing paint inside the gutter corner to help reduce the leak, its coming from those rivet holes. Then if you are going the new wood road, prime the wood first then paint with a very good paint... you do get gutter paint.
 
  • Like
Reactions: rh1
Have you considered using PVC facia boards? I haven't used wood, but some of the painted nutec boards we had became brittle after about 10 years. Also no need to paint PVC.
 
Thestealth said:
Have you considered using PVC facia boards? I haven't used wood, but some of the painted nutec boards we had became brittle after about 10 years. Also no need to paint PVC.
Click to expand...
To much wood to replace, I have already inspected the wood, it in very good condition except this corner. Cheaper to fix this corner.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top
Sign up to the MyBroadband newsletter
X