HDR Tutorials and some pretty cool images

Try sticking with brackets of no more than 1EV +/1 - you will have a bit more success. The exposure bracketing mode on most Kodak's will allow a spread of 0.3, 0.7 or 1.0 EV but no more. I did the manual thing like you did but after some experimenting I figured out there is a reason the camera on its own won't spread more than 1EV +/-
 
Do you think it would have stopped what happened in my pic? I dont see how much of a difference having a +1 and -1 exposure would have had, and it would have meant there is even more chance of me not being able to keep still
 
Just_Ice said:
Do you think it would have stopped what happened in my pic? I dont see how much of a difference having a +1 and -1 exposure would have had, and it would have meant there is even more chance of me not being able to keep still
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No - it wouldnt have - you needed at least one shot to have correctly exposed the wall which would have meant +3 or even more. Remember when you're shooting that you need to expose the highlights and the shadows and everything in between.
 
bwana said:
No - it wouldnt have - you needed at least one shot to have correctly exposed the wall which would have meant +3 or even more. Remember when you're shooting that you need to expose the highlights and the shadows and everything in between.
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Thats what I thought. The only problem being that I am limited to +2 unfortunately
 
Just_Ice said:
Thats what I thought. The only problem being that I am limited to +2 unfortunately
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Cant you adjust the exposure manually? If you can then meter off the wall and adjust the shutter speed accordingly. Obv aperture needs to remain constant and a tripod or anything to rest the camera on (even the car roof with some prestik or a bean bag on the ground) is essential.
 
bwana said:
Cant you adjust the exposure manually? If you can then meter off the wall and adjust the shutter speed accordingly. Obv aperture needs to remain constant and a tripod or anything to rest the camera on (even the car roof with some prestik or a bean bag on the ground) is essential.
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Nope. I can set the exposure stops, but aperture and shutter speed I cant control. ISO I can although that doesnt help much. I suppose though if I had set it to centre weighted metering, locked in the exposure off the wall, and then tried to return the camera to its original position it might have worked in this instance.

A tripod is helpful, but not vital as this one was hand held for example
 
Just_Ice said:
Nope. I can set the exposure stops, but aperture and shutter speed I cant control. ISO I can although that doesnt help much. I suppose though if I had set it to centre weighted metering, locked in the exposure off the wall, and then tried to return the camera to its original position it might have worked in this instance.

A tripod is helpful, but not vital as this one was hand held for example
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Unless you can fire off the three shots in quick succession without moving the camera then it is vital. Photomatix pro can only cope with movement as long as it is minimal.

I had PS do a quick auto alignment and there was a fair amount of movement between shots.

picture.php
 
bwana said:
Unless you can fire off the three shots in quick succession without moving the camera then it is vital. Photomatix pro can only cope with movement as long as it is minimal.

I had PS do a quick auto alignment and there was a fair amount of movement between shots.

picture.php
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Thats quite cool... I must say, I am impressed at how still I did keep more or less :D
Krypty said:
Just use RAW ;-)
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If that was an option, I would
 
Just for the sake of playing . .

I tethered my camera to my netbook and used it to take a quick bracketed series of nine shots.

3730941633_621c2c8ac2.jpg
 
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