HDR

marine1 said:
Mirror up? What does that mean please?

Edit bulb?
Click to expand...

Some cameras have a function to lift the mirror up and keep it up. You do this after composing your shot. Lift the mirror, wait a second or two, then squeeze (remotely) the shutter (or time it). The shutter on its own causes less vibration than the mirror going up and down.
 
plazma said:
Marine1, here is my quick and dirty guide to shooting HDR pics, seeing as you are too lazy to read the manuals, :p:

1. Put your camera on a tripod - you cannot do HDR photgraphy properly with hand-held shots, ok? And forget about doing HDR from 1 exposure - you need at least two or 3.
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Sure you can. A tripod helps but resting it on something is more than feasible - as I freehand. TBH you can also do it from one RAW file - but it wont be nearly as good.
plazma said:
2. Set your camera to auto-bracket. Use a Scenery preset shooting mode. Don't worry about depth of field, for now. Get out the manual of the camera, and read the section on auto-bracketing. Set the brackets as far apart as your camera allows. (-1 - 0 - +1 on mine)
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on many cameras doing that pulls you into a world where you can only shoot jpg - raw is always the better option. Here's the important thing - keep your DOF (aperture) constant for each shot.

marine1 - I would recommend exposures in the range of +2 +1 0 -1 -2

koffiejunkie said:
Some cameras have a function to lift the mirror up and keep it up. You do this after composing your shot. Lift the mirror, wait a second or two, then squeeze (remotely) the shutter (or time it). The shutter on its own causes less vibration than the mirror going up and down.
Click to expand...
Which is great if you're shooting low light or taking long exposures but really not that necessary for HDR (unless you're doing a long exposure).
 
You're getting there but you need to pick your subject a bit better while you're getting used to the process. The subject movement between frames is killing you.
 
marine1 said:
You are dead right Bwana, Moving subjects is a problem. Is there a way around this?
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Shoot faster (open your aperture)? Also try three (instead of 5) at +2 0 -2.

On my canon if I set it to the self timer while AEB is on it will fire off all three shots one after the other.
 
Hmm you see I cannot do that. I may be wrong but in the options where i can set the timer, it can either be continuous, timer, bracketting. So I manually have to push the button to take a photo when using bracket. I may be wrong but that is how I understand my camera :D
Thanks for the help Bwana
 
Self-timer

My toy camera does not have a remote cable, but it does have a 2-second self-timer. But even with a tripod, jitter is still a problem. I have never been able to get a really sharp HDR image. The slightest breeze causes tremors and feathering of edges in the image.

Has anyone here experimented with turning image stabilizing off for HDR? I want to try it to see what difference this makes.
 
plazma said:
Has anyone here experimented with turning image stabilizing off for HDR? I want to try it to see what difference this makes.
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Lens based stabilisation moves the image around, relative to the sensor. If you half press the shutter, so it locks on to something, then move the camera around - notice how the image moves?

So if you have IS enabled and do three shots - they might not be exactly the same image.
 
koffiejunkie said:
Lens based stabilisation moves the image around, relative to the sensor. If you half press the shutter, so it locks on to something, then move the camera around - notice how the image moves?

So if you have IS enabled and do three shots - they might not be exactly the same image.
Click to expand...

How exactly does IS work, anyway? Is the updating of the CCD delayed, or sampled less often?
 
plazma said:
How exactly does IS work, anyway? Is the updating of the CCD delayed, or sampled less often?
Click to expand...

There are two ways:

1. In-lens stabilisation. Canon calls it Image Stabilization or IS, Nikon calls it Vibration Reduction or VR, Sigma calls it Optical Stabilization or OS, Tamron calls it Vibration Compensation (I think) or VC. It works by moving a lens element around to cancel out camera movement relative to the sensor. In other words, it tries to cancel out a perspective shift caused by the camera movement.

2. Sensor based stabilisation. Pentax calls this Shake Reduction or SR. Sony and Olympus (I think) also employs this, I have no idea what they call it. This works by moving the sensor itself around to compensate for movement of the camera.

Both systems have their strengths and weaknesses. The lens-based stabilisation also gives you a stable image in the view finder, while the sensor-based image works out cheaper in the long run, because any lens you put on the camera is automatically stabilised.

Having owned systems that use either (Pentax and Canon), my opinion is that the sensor-based system is better all round - gives you a more stable shot in the end, while the lens-based system is more effective under the circumstances where it works well. I suspect the lens based stabilisation also improves AF, because the image that the AF sensors see is sabilised.

There is a third category, employed by cheap Point&Shoot cameras. They simply boost the ISO (without reflecting it in the EXIF). :eek:
 
plazma said:
My toy camera does not have a remote cable, but it does have a 2-second self-timer. But even with a tripod, jitter is still a problem. I have never been able to get a really sharp HDR image. The slightest breeze causes tremors and feathering of edges in the image.

Has anyone here experimented with turning image stabilizing off for HDR? I want to try it to see what difference this makes.
Click to expand...
Nope - I dont have any IS glass.
 
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