Home Automation - Smartkit

"Ground and neutral are tied into the same buss bar at the main breaker. I just use ground as neutral for these switches. they basically just feed a small amount of electricity back through the neutral side so the same dilemma would happen if you fed it up the ground side it's not like you're using the ground as full power return"



Anyone tried this?
 
rph72 said:
This is what I have. Bridge??
f14c90a37e62152216a9dba45215584c.jpg
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I would just be careful with the 433 mhz devices. They have absolutely no security since they send or receive the same code(s) every time.

If you have a Sonoff rf bridge flashed you can pick up these codes and send out any one of them. I can pick up for example my neighbours' doorbell and could theoretically send out the same code, thereby triggering their doorbell.

Fine if it is just a doorbell, but different story if you control / open and close something more serious with it.
 
alqassam said:
"Ground and neutral are tied into the same buss bar at the main breaker. I just use ground as neutral for these switches. they basically just feed a small amount of electricity back through the neutral side so the same dilemma would happen if you fed it up the ground side it's not like you're using the ground as full power return"



Anyone tried this?
Click to expand...

‘Technically it’s not wrong. The earth is connected to neutral AT THE TRANSFORMER. There is, however, a lot of voltage drop between that and your house and this can vary depending on the dynamic load of your house. There can be up to 50V difference in potential between earth and neutral, especially in older homes where connections are corroded. Furthermore, your RCD is supposed to trip at around 35mA current flow between Earth and either the Neutral and Live. In most homes there’s already a certain amount of this flowing due to older appliances having breakdown in insulation over time. This takes away from your 35mA ‘budget’; adding additional current to this budget may lead to spurious RCD trips, especially if you add many smart devices in this way.

Legally, however, you are not allowed to use the earth as a conductor at all. It’s a safety measure for when an appliance fails where mains power can touch exposed metal surfaces that can kill you. Any electrician doing a CoC will fail your installation and, in some cases, will disconnect your house from the grid until such a time as this is rectified.

So, in short: it can work, it’s just a kak and unsafe idea
 
ebendl said:
I would just be careful with the 433 mhz devices. They have absolutely no security since they send or receive the same code(s) every time.

If you have a Sonoff rf bridge flashed you can pick up these codes and send out any one of them. I can pick up for example my neighbours' doorbell and could theoretically send out the same code, thereby triggering their doorbell.

Fine if it is just a doorbell, but different story if you control / open and close something more serious with it.
Click to expand...
Reason my sonoffs for gate still unused. No rolling codes, so easy to access ones gates.

Opted to get automated option from security firm for my gate.
 
alqassam said:
"Ground and neutral are tied into the same buss bar at the main breaker. I just use ground as neutral for these switches. they basically just feed a small amount of electricity back through the neutral side so the same dilemma would happen if you fed it up the ground side it's not like you're using the ground as full power return"



Anyone tried this?
Click to expand...
Ground is there for a reason. So risky?

Would be great!
 
bwana said:
No, 10A but the most that will be plugged in is the vacuum cleaner which falls well below that.
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If you want to comply with the code, you will have to use a dedicated socket outlet because it's below 16A.
 
Awesum said:
If you want to comply with the code, you will have to use a dedicated socket outlet because it's below 16A.
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The man speaks the truth. Remember that someone can plug anything into that while you're not there to supervise
 
Awesum said:
Did you try changing the angle of the mini? Shelly might fit and I think it's rated at 16A.
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Problem is there's just too much extra wire in there - both in and out - that needs to be trimmed down and even then it still might not fit.

I've got 8 or so minis sitting in a drawer so I'm looking to use them first before I think of buying anything else.
 
bwana said:
Problem is there's just too much extra wire in there - both in and out - that needs to be trimmed down and even then it still might not fit.

I've got 8 or so minis sitting in a drawer so I'm looking to use them first before I think of buying anything else.
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Is it feeding another socket outlet? You can easily reduce the switch wiring down to 1mm as it's not current carrying.
 
Awesum said:
Is it feeding another socket outlet? You can easily reduce the switch wiring down to 1mm as it's not current carrying.
Click to expand...
It must be? There's two sets of trunking and two sets of wires.
 
Awesum said:
Is it feeding another socket outlet? You can easily reduce the switch wiring down to 1mm as it's not current carrying.
Click to expand...
It does carry current though, it just doesn't carry any real load.

If it didn't carry current then one of my mini's wouldn't have gone up in sparks and smoke when I wasn't careful enough with one of the switching wires and it touched the metal (earthed) light switch box. ;)
 
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