Home Automation - SmartShack

SmartShack

SmartShack

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Joined
Jan 4, 2021
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Hey Everyone , a while ago ( lockdown level 5) I had an epiphany and realised that my current job wasn`t bringing me the Joy it used to so I decided to go into uncharted waters and start my own company and so SmartShack was born . its a small online store selling Smart switches/relays, temp sensors , smart bulbs and a few other things I thought fitted the "smart" theme and as my main Brand Shelly brings in more devices so will the products grow .

please feel free to browse the site , I`m happy to take on constructive criticism, teething issues and a few faults that I haven`t discovered yet ( oh boy what have I opened myself up to ? )

smartshack.co.za

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smartshack.co.za smartshack.co.za

thanks everyone
 
Nice to have another player in the market!

I think with prices continually dropping and the simplicity of automation nowadays, this should be a great year.

I see you're running a banner today with the Shelly stuff - I I changed my Sonoff stuff out for the Shelly and love it. It seems like you have a broad Shelly range too
 
Dolby said:
Nice to have another player in the market!

I think with prices continually dropping and the simplicity of automation nowadays, this should be a great year.

I see you're running a banner today with the Shelly stuff - I I changed my Sonoff stuff out for the Shelly and love it. It seems like you have a broad Shelly range too
Click to expand...
Thanks for the support ! Shelly will be the main brand that we sell at SmartShack and as the new products get certified then we will add them to the site , the problem is that some companies are selling the Shelly EM and 2.5 and they not yet certified which could be an issue if you make a claim with insurance .

The Sonoff products are Great but I think the Shelly App and its size is what takes the cake .
 
Personally I am more worried about the installation of the shellies than the certifications.

Installing into the tight spaces...I had my fair share of sparks flying and needing to redo the installation.
Doesn't help that you can only open a very short part of the cable end (strip) else you have exposed wire because the holes are so tiny.

Once the install is good...I haven't seen a single issue with the shellies.
 
Tinuva said:
Personally I am more worried about the installation of the shellies than the certifications.

Installing into the tight spaces...I had my fair share of sparks flying and needing to redo the installation.
Doesn't help that you can only open a very short part of the cable end (strip) else you have exposed wire because the holes are so tiny.

Once the install is good...I haven't seen a single issue with the shellies.
Click to expand...
Yeah it can get a little tricky installing! which Shelly`s Do you have ?
 
Cutting a cable too short is always going to burn you.
 
hilton said:
Cutting a cable too short is always going to burn you.
Click to expand...
You don't have the option to cut it too short or too long with the shellies, you have to do it perfect.

So if you use quick connectors. The stripped side of the cable on the quick connecter side, needs to be plenty long. On the Shelly side it needs to be a perfect length of pretty short but not too short but definitely not too long, too long means exposed wires. They super close to each other too on the shelly.
 
SmartShack said:
which Shelly`s Do you have ?
Click to expand...
I have quite a few.

1x Shelly 1PM
2x Shelly Dimmer
3x Shelly Dimmer2
8-10x Shelly 1 (not sure exactly how many)
8x Shelly 2.5

The biggest problem was fitting a Shelly Dimmer2 AND Shelly 1 into a 2x4 instead of a Shelly 2.5, because I wanted a dimmer on the one light. Lucky most of the time I put a single shelly in, except for the above case and one other case into a 4x4 which was easier but also tight.

90-95% of my light switches are now on shellies. Still have to install 2x Shelly 2.5s and then come up with an idea with 2 rooms which have fans in the mix on what exactly I want to do there. Looking for some kind of fan controller but the options ain't many.
 
The Shelly dimmers and 2.5s are amazing, because they include power metering, so many of my lights I can actually do metering, but they so small on leds I haven't done anything with it yet.
 
Tinuva said:
You don't have the option to cut it too short or too long with the shellies, you have to do it perfect.

So if you use quick connectors. The stripped side of the cable on the quick connecter side, needs to be plenty long. On the Shelly side it needs to be a perfect length of pretty short but not too short but definitely not too long, too long means exposed wires. They super close to each other too on the shelly.
Click to expand...
I guess we're talking at cross purposes. I'm referring to the length of the cable and I think you're referring to the stripped section. I always use boot laces for this. Hate stranded cable floating around.
 
Hi everyone , so I bought a Wifi Garage door opener (TUYA) and installed it over the weekend , Now the device comes with only 2 wires ( Red and Black) , instructions say that I need to plug the red wire and the black wire into the same sockets where the garage button that's against the walls wires run into however the garage button is wireless . I then googled how the sonoff devices work and they say I need to plug the red wire into 24v and the black wire into GND ( ground) but this doesn't seem correct and also didn't work . I am pretty sure that at least the black wire should possibly go into TRIG and the red wire somewhere else but i tried a number of combinations and to no avail . please help !


https://imgur.com/a/urI89pf
 
SmartShack said:
Hi everyone , so I bought a Wifi Garage door opener (TUYA) and installed it over the weekend , Now the device comes with only 2 wires ( Red and Black) , instructions say that I need to plug the red wire and the black wire into the same sockets where the garage button that's against the walls wires run into however the garage button is wireless . I then googled how the sonoff devices work and they say I need to plug the red wire into 24v and the black wire into GND ( ground) but this doesn't seem correct and also didn't work . I am pretty sure that at least the black wire should possibly go into TRIG and the red wire somewhere else but i tried a number of combinations and to no avail . please help !


https://imgur.com/a/urI89pf
Click to expand...
Red should go to "TRG" and black to "GND". You could just use a jumper wire and try different combinations on the board until the door opens/closes. That will then be where to connect the 2 wires.
 
R4m80 said:
Red should go to "TRG" and black to "GND". You could just use a jumper wire and try different combinations on the board until the door opens/closes. That will then be where to connect the 2 wires.
Click to expand...
so I tested with a jumper wire and its definitely GND and TRIG that opens and closes , I tried the wires both ways on those 2 screws and still nothing now I am wondering if the device isnt faulty. I can hear the switch activate when I press the button but I need one of those things that test current . thanks for the help though
 
hey Everyone , keep an eye out for Easter specials kicking in from tomorrow till Monday .

specials will be for ALL Shelly products , Lego and a few other brands .
 
Any suggestions for an enclosure for an esp8266? I'll be using it as an IP pathway to my alarm system.
 
Not sure the size you want but look online at Livecopper, Communica and Litego as they all have waterproof enclosures.
 
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